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Thread: Oil level frustration

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Oct 2013
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    Forewarning, this is probably me being stupid, but I'm having a hard time with my oil change. I have a 2010 1125cr. After reading the owner's manual, it sounds like during hot checks you take the oil reading while the bike is sitting on the kickstand. I rode the bike around for about 10 minutes, leaned it on the kickstand, removed the oil plug and let it run for 1 minute, then checked the sight glass after 3.3L (I changed the filter as well) and there was 0 oil in it. So I added about .2L, totaling 3.5L and rode around again for a little while... came back, and let it idle for another minute with no oil fill cap and no oil in the sight glass unless I brought the bike upright. I'm getting frustrated because I reaaally don't want to do any damage to my bike, and secondly...I obviously am itching to ride it. So please help me with any ideas of why I'm not getting the desired readings? I've checked for leaks, no oil seems to be coming from any of the plugs or hoses. FML

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    1125 is similar to import bikes, check while upright.

    XB is checked on side stand

  3. #3

  4. #4
    Junior Member
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    Oct 2013
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    Damn it all. Then my book is a load of crap and I have way too much oil in my bike. Thanks so much for the clarification, I'll go check the level and drain about .5L out of it, a little bit at a time until I get a good cold check so I can feel confident in my levels while riding. Thanks for the comments, see you guys on the open road (if you ever find yourself on Oahu ;) )

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    The oil check procedure originally published in the manual was wrong. Here is the correct procedure lifted from elsewhere in the interwebs:

    Buell Service Bulletin B-070 Dated February 12, 2008:

    Engine Oil Check Procedure

    An accurate engine oil level reading can be obtained with the engine cold or at normal operating temperature. The engine will require a longer warm up period in colder temperatures if using the hot check procedure.

    Perform engine oil COLD CHECK as follows:

    NOTE: For an accurate cold check, you must wait a minimum of four hours after the motorcycle has been run.

    1. See Figure 1. Loosen the dipstick.

    2. Hold the motorcycle upright for one minute.

    3. While continuing to hold the motorcycle upright, remove and wipe off the dipstick.

    4. Insert dipstick into oil filler hole, screwing dipstick in completely.

    5. See Figure 2. Unscrew and remove dipstick and note oil level. An indicated oil level between MIN and MAX is acceptable for safe engine operation. Oil should be added in 3.4 fl. oz. (0.1 L) increments, depending on how far the level is from the MAX reading. If oil was added, proceed to the Oil Level Hot Check procedure.

    Perform engine oil HOT CHECK as follows:

    1. Ride motorcycle for approximately 10 minutes. Ride at least 5 miles (8 kilometers) to ensure the oil is hot and the engine is at normal operating temperature. Readings taken with colder oil could lead to an overfull engine condition.

    2. Stand the motorcycle upright (not leaning on sidestand) on a firm level surface. An uneven surface will produce a false oil reading.

    3. Idle the motorcycle for three minutes. Shut off the motorcycle.

    4. See Figure 1. Loosen the dipstick.

    5. Wait for 3-4 minutes after shutdown (with vehicle still upright) before reading the oil level, or false readings may result.

    6. Unscrew and remove dipstick from oil filler hole. Wipe dipstick clean.

    7. Insert dipstick into oil filler hole, screwing dipstick in completely.

    8. See Figure 2. Unscrew and remove dipstick and note oil level. An indicated oil level between MIN and MAX (measured after performing steps 1 through 7) is acceptable for safe engine operation. Oil should be added in 3.4 fl. oz. (0.1 L) increments, depending on how far the level is from the MAX reading. Confirm oil level by repeating steps 1 through 8.

    Oil Quantities Required for Oil Change/Replacement

    Engine oil (including oil filter) : 2.7 qt. 2.6 Liters
    Engine oil (not including oil filter) : 2.4 qt. 2.3 Liters

  6. #6
    Junior Member
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    Oct 2013
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    Ok, I drained about .7L out of the engine yesterday and left it overnight. This morning I did a cold check (no oil in the sight glass on the kickstand but in between the top and bottom marks while upright. This morning, I rode it over 10 minutes and 5 miles, then idled on the kickstand for 1.5 minutes with the oil fill cap off, then shut the bike off and looked at the sight glass. nothing shows on the kickstand, but I'm right between the top and bottom marks while the bike is upright. So I'm calling it good. I hate it that the owner's manual is wrong. Thanks for the help. It just seemed logical to me that the reading would be taken while the bike was on the kickstand so you could check it easily while alone, so I wanted to be 100% sure I was reading the level correctly

  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    Feb 2012
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    You're still checking wrong and I have no idea why you're letting the bike idle with the oil cap off, but whatever. Get the bike hot, turn it off, get it upright for a bit, check oil. Easy cheesey. You're not going to get any sort of even remotely accurate reading leaned over on the kickstand.

  8. #8
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    Not familiar with the 1125, but have had issues when starting out with an 09 Uly when changing the oil. I would get in a hurry start the motor run it for 2 few minutes, shut it off check the oil and add more. Then go riding and check again to see that I have overfilled it. Now I carefully measure it when filling it, warm it up thoroughly for about 5 to 8 minutes then check it again and it is usually right on the money. Also noticed after storing it, the oil level went down some and I added some oil, over filling before I even started the bike, did not notice until after I warmed it up for 5 to 8 minutes. It takes a little time but it is easy cheesy like someone said above when you get to know it. Not sure but I think it is the dry sump system that allows the oil to shift from motor to tank somehow sort of giving false reading until everything is run and warmed up properly and settled to where it is supposed to be? Not sure, I am just a knuckle head that Loves to ride, which is always better with oil right?, but best with the right level.



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