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Thread: Trouble codes 24,25

  1. #1
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    Ok , 03 xb9r.....

    Bike seems to run fine but I keep getting trouble codes 24 and 25.... Front and rear coil short or open, is what ECM spy keeps telling.

    I've checked about everywhere possible for a short on the wiring, checked ground, battery is good even swapped coils..... Still get the same codes. Sometimes it goes away so I guess you're say its somewhat intermittent.

    I'm at a loss as to where to go from here. Any help would be much appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Check the harness coming off of the coils, then check the harness coming off of the ecm. I don't have an '03 9r manual around, but I am sure you can trace which wires are ground/hot lead on the coil circuit. From there, it is a matter of painstakingly checking the wires for cracks, cuts, gouges. The best way is to use a multimeter probe and probe every foot or so. When you see a drop below the ~12V (I think), then you trace it back to where you may find an opening in the insolation. That's your short. I had similar codes on my rear fuel injector, but was tipped off about a manufacturing flaw in the harness that lead to this problem. Aside from that, it could just be age or general wear and tear. Good luck!

  3. #3
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    Thanks joe..... I guess that's my next step.

  4. #4
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    Ok... So I've checked every wire to the best of my ability and can't find a short.... Per the service manual trouble codes 24-25 indicate a coil failure (but the bike seems to run fine and the engine isn't always on) or a loss of power to the coil.

    Haven't figured out how to check power to the coil while it's running, but....... Checking the grey wire going to the coil with ignition on but bike not running only yields 10.5 volts.... Reading at the battery is 13.3 with ignition on.....

    Anybody got any ideas if that lower voltage might indicate the problem, I mean I'm assuming it should read over 12v

  5. #5
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    That previous post should read.... The engine light isn't always on....... In other words it's intermittent.

  6. #6
    Senior Member nicholas900's Avatar
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    Was the coil in plugged in when you got the low voltage? You should have battery voltage on the grey wire with the key on.

    Here's a link on how to test the coil.

    Those codes don't necessarily mean you have a short in the wiring harness. Chances are it's the coil itself. Poking holes in your wiring every foot isn't a great idea as you will get corrosion and future problems. It's also not a helpful diagnostic tool.

    If you can, test the coil like in the link and report back the readings.

  7. #7
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    Thanks Nicholas......
    No I didn't have it plugged in when I checked the voltage. Thanks for the link on the coil, I'll check it out .

  8. #8
    Senior Member nicholas900's Avatar
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    Checking the coil is still a good idea. But with the coil connector unplugged you should definitely have battery voltage on the grey wire. I was thinking if you tested it with the coil plugged in a partially shorted coil could affect your reading.

    Leads me to think you have a supply issue. Make sure you had good contact with your tester and using the ground on your battery for both battery and grey wire voltage tests.

    The grey wire on your injectors is the same wire fed from the ignition relay. Is that voltage low too with key on?

    Good luck with it.

  9. #9
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    I haven't checked the voltage at the ignition relay.... I'll check it tomorrow.

    I'm pretty sure I had good connections when I checked the voltage. When I checked the grey wire I always used put the neg from the meter directly on the neg terminal of the battery. Checked it numerous times and voltage only varied by .2 volts.


    I really appreciate the help. I'll check it and see where that leads along with checking the coil.

  10. #10
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    Before you start tearing everything apart, have you checked the connections on the spark plug wires? I recently replaced my wires because the connections had some moisture get to them and corroded. That can cause intermittent firing from bad contacts.



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