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| Posted: 28 Jul 2010 20:33 | [?] |
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Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jul 2010 |
Posts: 35 Reputation: Unranked [?] User Rank: Second Lieutenant
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alright i got my ecm spy cable today, followed the youtube vid hooked it up. it was initally close to 8 in the center, so i reset it back to 0 and than to 5.5
bike wouldnt run at all, idle for a minute than die. just to get it running well, i had to up it to 7.5, and it idles around 1300 now. i dont want to drop it more, because than it runs rough. any insight would be great. |
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| Posted: 28 Jul 2010 23:19 | [?] |
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Moderator Currently Offline Join Date: Aug 2008 |
Posts: 3703 Reputation: 175 [?] User Rank: Four-Star General
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To get the most accurate TPS reset, be sure the butterfly valve is snapping shut completely. If it doesn't, you've had a "false" reset. Pull off the inner & outer airboxes to be sure.
After that, try a "hard" TPS reset if it's still off: "Hard" TPS reset Not being a jerk, but all this is assuming that you're doing the normal TPS reset correctly. |
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| Posted: 29 Jul 2010 00:05 | [?] |
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Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: May 2010 |
Posts: 117 Reputation: 5 [?] User Rank: Captain
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IDK why I bother checking threads where stevenc150 was the last to post, knowing damn well he has it covered.
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| Posted: 29 Jul 2010 05:58 | [?] |
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Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jul 2010 |
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not being a jerk at all, i'm not sure if i did it correct.
i followed the video of it, and snapped the throttle a few times each time i made an adjustment. i set the tps to 5.5, started the bike and it would die. but i didnt apply slight clockwise pressure to make sure the valve was closed/didnt take off the air scoop, so i'm going to try those today on my lunch break. is having it set to anywhere from 6.5-7.9 bad? |
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| Posted: 29 Jul 2010 06:55 | [?] |
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Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jan 2010 |
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Those TPS values describe a throttle butterfly opening amount that is greater than normal.
That indicates some part(s) of your engine system is out-of-normal condition. It may be an adjustment, excess wear, cleanliness, funky fuel map, etc. Leaky intake seals would be an example of such problem (not a diagnosis). Will engine still idle at 7 +/- now? |
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| Posted: 29 Jul 2010 11:03 | [?] |
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Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jul 2010 |
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yeah idles fine at around 6.5 now. sounds like it may have an exhaust leak, but i do not see any signs of carbon around the manifolds. been noticing a ticking noise lately. on my lunch i'm going to check my static timing and make sure thats not f'ed up.
could an old/non maintained K&n cause this? |
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| Posted: 29 Jul 2010 12:17 Last Edited By: Paniller | [?] |
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Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Dec 2009 |
Posts: 234 Reputation: 6 [?] User Rank: Major
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Hmm, mine's been 9-10%. Lowest I've seen is 7% after a reset. Guess I should check it out, too.
Applies to 08's as well? We don't have a idle adjuster, and that's part of the procedure. |
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| Posted: 29 Jul 2010 13:12 | [?] |
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Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jan 2010 |
Posts: 169 Reputation: 3 [?] User Rank: Captain
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| Air-filter would be very restrictive to affect idle speed airflow: probably not a dirty air-filter. | |
| Posted: 29 Jul 2010 13:54 | [?] |
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Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jul 2010 |
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well air filter was fine anyway.
i'm going to check for exhaust leaks before i leave work. does it matter if the tps reset is done cold or hot? |
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| Posted: 30 Jul 2010 00:37 | [?] |
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Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: May 2010 |
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I don't believe it should make much difference whether it's hot or cold on the reset.
Just checking are you actually looking at the butterfly in the throttlebody and the idle screw itself. Turning the Knob behind the air scoop doesn't necessarily mean you've backed it out all the way.These things like to get bound up and fool you. you should really get a good visual to be sure, and apply slight clockwise pressure to the throttle grip. It should stick just a little when you go to move it the other way, If it doesn't stick, It's not fully closing. |
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| Posted: 30 Jul 2010 05:51 | [?] |
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Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jul 2010 |
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well i realizd i was looking at percentage vs voltage, which there was a slight difference in readings there. so now i set it at 5.5 volts, applying slight pressure to it. also, when i backed it out the addition two turns according to the video, the throttle wouldnt move at all. right now it idles at just around 1050, maybe a bit lower.
does it adjust its idle after running a bit? also, do you think that its possible for the static timing to be out after only 900 miles? |
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| Posted: 30 Jul 2010 07:13 | [?] |
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Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jan 2010 |
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+1, idle adjustment cable can be binding & awkward. Grease its screw-adjuster @ throttle body when access is available.
IMO, electronic ignition timing seldom changes "on its own"; an electronic system with no wearing parts. |
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| Posted: 30 Jul 2010 10:23 Last Edited By: Stevenc150 | [?] |
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Moderator Currently Offline Join Date: Aug 2008 |
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Quote: '07-earlier (DIY adjustment)
does it adjust its idle after running a bit? '08-Later (ECM controlled) Edit: Oh, and yes there's a cold start enrichment, so after it reaches normal operating temps., the idle will change. |
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| Posted: 30 Jul 2010 10:42 Last Edited By: Alfatango1 | [?] |
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Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Nov 2009 |
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| I was told to and now always remove scoop and cut zip tie to have adjuster cable as straight as possible. It can bind up, and it's pretty fragile. Also when the tps reading does not drop any longer and the idle screw is completely off the throttle body, is when I hit reset. I also back the adjuster screw all the way out, not just two turns. For my bike it allows me enough length to bring values to where they need to be and be able to adjust idle afterward. | |
| Posted: 30 Jul 2010 16:38 | [?] |
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Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jul 2010 |
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| i'm going to try that tonight. | |
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