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| Posted: 10 Sep 2008 15:31 | [?] |
Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jul 2008
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Posts: 97 Reputation: 2 [?] User Rank: First Lieutenant
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What sort of side effects arise from adding too much oil and how severe are they? (oops)
Any recomendations on Oil and/or Filters?
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| Posted: 10 Sep 2008 15:43 | [?] |
Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: May 2007
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Posts: 158 Reputation: 6 [?] User Rank: Captain
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depends how much you overfilled it. if it was just by a little, check your inner airbox area, it probably got puked all over in there.
oil/filter discussions can get pretty ridiculous but... stock works or if you want to try something else, ive been running Mobil 1 15W50 in the engine and M1 VTwin 20W50 in the primary (sometimes 15W50 in both) for over 15K miles without a single issue. runs cool, shifts smooth.
for filters i like the Purolator PureOne #PL14476 or Mobil 1 #M1-103
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| Posted: 10 Sep 2008 15:58 | [?] |
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Posts: 97 Reputation: 2 [?] User Rank: First Lieutenant
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okay this is totally going to expose me for the novice i am.. but 1 in "the engine" and another in "the primary"... uh oh.. i only thought there was one place i could put oil?
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| Posted: 10 Sep 2008 16:08 | [?] |
Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jul 2008
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Posts: 97 Reputation: 2 [?] User Rank: First Lieutenant
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And also not to be a dummy, but those filters you mentioned will fit my bike right?
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| Posted: 10 Sep 2008 16:10 | [?] |
Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jun 2008
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Posts: 661 Reputation: 6 [?] User Rank: Brigadier General
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Primary=Transmission. You can put good sythetic for ur primary instead of tranny fluid. I run 20w50 Royal Purple in both holes
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| Posted: 10 Sep 2008 16:24 | [?] |
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Posts: 97 Reputation: 2 [?] User Rank: First Lieutenant
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Oh duh. Used to referring to it as "fluid" instead of oil. Should I be checking my Primary regularly?
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| Posted: 10 Sep 2008 16:28 | [?] |
Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jun 2008
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Posts: 661 Reputation: 6 [?] User Rank: Brigadier General
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Eh, If u ride alot. my bike is my main mode of transportation, and I check once every week or so. There is a gasket ur sposed to replace everytime u take your view cover off. But if your carefull and its not damaged you can re use it. If ur a stickler I think they're like 30 cents each at the stealership. Too much oil, it should be hard to find nuetral.
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| Posted: 10 Sep 2008 17:09 | [?] |
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Posts: 97 Reputation: 2 [?] User Rank: First Lieutenant
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Yeah it's my main mode of transportation too.. i guess i'll pick up some of those gaskets next time i'm at the dealership so i can start checking. and i have been having a hard time finding neutral.
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| Posted: 10 Sep 2008 18:06 | [?] |
Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: May 2008
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Posts: 86 Reputation: 2 [?] User Rank: First Lieutenant
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use royal purple, it's the best by far!!!
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| Posted: 11 Sep 2008 02:34 | [?] |
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Posts: 60 Reputation: Unranked [?] User Rank: First Lieutenant
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harley syne three oil was made to run in engine,trans and primary.its not to hard to mix the wrong oil in the wrong componet when your workin with syne-3.
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| Posted: 11 Sep 2008 04:23 | [?] |
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Please see my thread. I'm very proud of it, and there's a lot of good info in it.
null
As for the Harley syn, you can run it in there, but it had the anti-wear agents in it. So I'd steer clear of it in the primary. They make a specific fluid for the primary for a reason, and it's not just bottom line.
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| Posted: 11 Sep 2008 05:53 | [?] |
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Posts: 233 Reputation: 13 [?] User Rank: Major
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So in total recognition of how informed a lot of these guys are and my lack thereof. I'd like to test the waters and see if this throws up any red flags.
I use Mobil 1, fully synthetic in all my cars, from the Hemi Dodge Ram to the Toyota Scion tC and have had very good luck out of them. Is Mobil 1, full synthetic a good oil to use in my Buell or are there some harmful additives in it that I should know about.
(Reading this post and seeing nothing but Royal Purple and Amsoil mentioned, I feel like I just said a cuss word out loud at church or something.)
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| Posted: 11 Sep 2008 06:09 | [?] |
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There is another thread all about Royal Purple and Amsoil. I just read it and I am alittle confused on a few of the comments. I am approaching my 5000 mile service interval and I think I would like to switch to Royal Purple. I should run RP 20W50 in the swing arm for the engine, and then what do I put in for the primary??? I thought 20W50 but after reading that thread i am a bit confused. Also what oil filter is best when using RP?
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| Posted: 11 Sep 2008 07:28 | [?] |
Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jun 2008
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Posts: 661 Reputation: 6 [?] User Rank: Brigadier General
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I put 20w50 in both primary and swingarm. I believe on the other post someone contacted Royal Purp and they advised Royal Purple Max Cycle for primary. I know im not the only one using 20w50 in both holes, and I have noticed an improvement from the Harley Syn. I might switch to the max cycle next primary change, I havnt really made up my mind.
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| Posted: 11 Sep 2008 15:15 | [?] |
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Posts: 242 Reputation: 7 [?] User Rank: Major
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oxygen151, max cycle 20w50 or xpr 20w50 for your primary. Thaloc, 20w50 is the weight of the oil. The difference to be concerned about is the additives. Maxcycle doesn't have the anti-wear and anti-slip additives that you don't want on clutchs.
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| Posted: 11 Sep 2008 16:27 | [?] |
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Posts: 71 Reputation: Unranked [?] User Rank: First Lieutenant
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so max cycle 20W50 for the primary and then just normal RP 20W50 syn because of the additives for the swing arm??
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| Posted: 11 Sep 2008 17:33 | [?] |
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Posts: 97 Reputation: 2 [?] User Rank: First Lieutenant
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Quote: Please see my thread. I'm very proud of it, and there's a lot of good info in it.
null
As for the Harley syn, you can run it in there, but it had the anti-wear agents in it. So I'd steer clear of it in the primary. They make a specific fluid for the primary for a reason, and it's not just bottom line.
I just read the thread and have a question.. it seems relatively agreeable that both royal purple and amsoil are pretty good.. what about mobil 1? what is the difference, the additives? I ask cause i bought 3 quarts last night and a filter to match and am wondering if i need to change it...
thanks,
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| Posted: 11 Sep 2008 22:25 | [?] |
Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jan 2008
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Posts: 239 Reputation: 6 [?] User Rank: Major
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I prefer extra virgin olive oil...       
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| Posted: 12 Sep 2008 05:52 | [?] |
Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Aug 2008
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Posts: 233 Reputation: 13 [?] User Rank: Major
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Okay, I consider myself chastened. 2 Posts regarding Mobil 1 (myself and 2003buellxb9s) and no replies regarding it. I guess it's Royal Purple all the way.
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| Posted: 12 Sep 2008 14:45 | [?] |
Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: May 2007
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Posts: 158 Reputation: 6 [?] User Rank: Captain
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Mobil 1 user here too, as mentioned in post 2 of this thread. lots of other Buellers running the same. i'm not switching any time soon.. .
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| Posted: 12 Sep 2008 14:51 | [?] |
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Posts: 242 Reputation: 7 [?] User Rank: Major
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Mobil 1 is a very good oil and there would be no problems using it. The difference of oils is the additives and the quality control put into creating it. That being said, Royal Purple all the way.
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| Posted: 12 Sep 2008 21:02 | [?] |
Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jul 2008
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Posts: 97 Reputation: 2 [?] User Rank: First Lieutenant
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I posted this on another thread but am just thinking it also kinda applies to this thread:
Well, I just opened the transmission up to check it out and although the level looks good, I think the fluid itself is all jacked up. I've never looked in a transmission before, but the most "liquid" of the substance inside was a true gray color and then there was this greyish yellowish substance more the consitency of cream that was caked on to the inside of the clutch inspection cover.
it didnt smell burned but it sure as hell looked strange and even a little of the creamy part looked a little bubbly so i guess burned.. damn.
i havent checked the clutch adjustment cause it doesn't "slip" or "drag"..
please help, that just scared me... I will definetly be draining it and will replace it with some royal purple maxcycle or whatever, but like, since its all sludgy do i need to do something else, like should i wipe that shit off the cover???
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| Posted: 12 Sep 2008 21:05 | [?] |
Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jun 2008
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Posts: 661 Reputation: 6 [?] User Rank: Brigadier General
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I think if you wanted to spend the money you could fill it with max cycle and the drain and fill again and that would prolly get rid of the majority of sludge left over. I know thats what is advised when u think u have debris in the swingarm so id imagine it would be fine for the primary. Might be a bit spendy to do it with Max Cycle.
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| Posted: 12 Sep 2008 23:09 | [?] |
Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: May 2007
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Posts: 158 Reputation: 6 [?] User Rank: Captain
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prob got water in your primary.. . check the boot that covers the clutch cable adjuster, might be letting water in there. if the boot isn't sealing well, water runs right down into the primary causing the white sludge.
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| Posted: 14 Sep 2008 01:13 | [?] |
Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Nov 2006
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Posts: 246 Reputation: 35 [?] User Rank: Major
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any SAE oil... does the manual say motorcycle oil...no thats because test show there is no difference between the two...matter of fact ANy quality sae oil test better then so called motorcycle oil...ya ya there are special additives in motorcycle oil lol..but they wont tell you what they are ya right ...test show there are none ..... your wasting money buying $8 a quart oil when any of the top syn for 1/2 the price will work just as well or better...as far as the primary and clutch slippage goes...only 5w oils have additives that caused clutch slipage
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| Posted: 15 Sep 2008 17:16 | [?] |
Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jul 2008
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Posts: 97 Reputation: 2 [?] User Rank: First Lieutenant
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I think i might typeone... because after changing it this weekend, i rode for about 30 minutes then had to open it back up because when putting back on the lockplate and diaphram spring i accidentally loosened the clutch cable, well i looked inside and there was already more white gunk caked on the clutch inspection cover and i noticed some little white beads of water.. must be getting water in there somehow, i'll check the boot.
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| Posted: 16 Sep 2008 15:10 | [?] |
Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jul 2008
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Posts: 97 Reputation: 2 [?] User Rank: First Lieutenant
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Okay so I checked the boot and sure enough it was super loose up top and water squirted out of the bottom as I adjusted it. I tried to squeeze out all of the water and sealed it up top with some tape for now. hopefully that is where the water is coming in so it can stop contaminating my oil. thanks.
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| Posted: 16 Sep 2008 20:25 | [?] |
Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: May 2007
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Posts: 158 Reputation: 6 [?] User Rank: Captain
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good that you cleaned out that connection but you've probably still got water in the lower portion of the cable. i would remove the whole thing and lube it really well.
sealing the top of the boot + packing that connection with grease or similar has been known to help.
glad you located the source!
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| Posted: 16 Sep 2008 22:15 | [?] |
Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: Jul 2008
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Posts: 97 Reputation: 2 [?] User Rank: First Lieutenant
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Yeah I think I do because I noticed a little bit more of the same gunk again.
so you are saying remove the entire cable?...i haven't looked at it but don't remember seeing anything in the manual about it, i'm sure i can figure it out though.
by saying "packing that connection" are you referring again to lubing the entire cable or just using the grease as a plug so to speak where the boot covers the cable end?
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| Posted: 17 Sep 2008 01:50 | [?] |
Registered User Currently Offline Join Date: May 2007
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Posts: 158 Reputation: 6 [?] User Rank: Captain
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if it were my bike, yeah, remove the entire cable and shoot it good with some quality lube. you dont want to push any water or crap back into the primary when over-lubing it to clean it out.
if you have a service manual, it describes how to remove/install the cable. its pretty easy to figure out on the S, but one HUGE word of caution... when you get the cable free from all its mounts (lever, wire guide and clamp) make sure you dont put extra stress on the cable where it enters the side case.
when unscrewing the cable from the case, keep the cable completely straight, as if it were a solid rod. install it in this same fashion and keep the torque on it VERY low. a lot of people have snapped or stripped threads removing/installing the clutch cable. i think its because its hard to keep straight and doesnt need much torque to seat it. ive removed and installed the clutch cable a few times without any issue whatsoever.
as for the 'packed grease' comment, ive just heard of people filling that area with some thick grease to help keep water out. sealing the top portion of the boot and checking often after wash/rain rides has kept mine fine. just another way to combat water getting in there by adding some thick grease. up to you though.
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