Reply With Quotebull****.one that sticks out in my mind in the more aggressive "turning on and off" of the rear cylinder fan.
http://www.ecmspy.com/ug_mono/V2.0/l...html#fan-setupi don't see any option to control the engine fan differently.
i have a 2005 xb9sx and have ecmspy. i hear all the benefits to having a race ecu, one that sticks out in my mind in the more aggressive "turning on and off" of the rear cylinder fan.
i took my stock eeprom tonight and saved it. then i loaded xb9 race maps over top of it and enabled the white wire mod and burned that.
i don't see any option to control the engine fan differently. i'm pretty sure i read somewhere that you don't want to upload a eeprom that isn't from your ecu to your ecu..... even if it's the same eeprom from another bike same year, etc.
am i correct in thinking this or should i have uploaded the 2005 race eeprom that i have? i'm thinking no but i have to ask.
bull****.one that sticks out in my mind in the more aggressive "turning on and off" of the rear cylinder fan.
http://www.ecmspy.com/ug_mono/V2.0/l...html#fan-setupi don't see any option to control the engine fan differently.
Thanks, I guess I need the mono version to be able to control the fan.
ok, on US bikes the white wire is already off...and you want it off. Overseas bikes have the white wire on, which causes a "hesitation" around 3k -3500 rpms for noise requirements IIRC. The fan comes on and shuts off no different between race and stock eeproms on 04-07 bikes. And yes, NEVER BURN AN EEPROM THAT DOESNT MATCH YOUR ECM FIRMWARE. The race eeprom has a BUEGB231 Firmware with 101: P & A Calibration ID. The stock eeprom has a BUEIB310 Firmware with 48: US Calibration ID if it's a United States bike. You cannot burn the race eeprom to the stock ecm without risking a bricked ecm. Always keep your original eeprom and burn the maps only. As for the fan cycling on and off, you can change the parameters but you have to change the values in the eeprom. I did it to my '05 xb9sx, I but I think you should read up on the ecmspy webpage to get familiar with everything before changing too much. when you start dealing with the eeprom values, it's all in hexidecimal values, so it takes a little know how to get desired results. BUT the good news is, the information is out there, and it's free. it just requires some searching and some reading and some learning. I posted Here about properly burning maps. And Here for fan operation, BUT please read through ECMspy's website before doing this one. Just lookin out for ya...there's been a lot of "OH SH** I MESSED UP MY ECM" posts on the forum recently. LOL One more thing...ALWAYS SAVE AND SAVE AND RESAVE AND COPY AND RECOPY YOUR OEM EEPROM!! That way you'll have something to fall back on if something goes haywire.
Thanks for the info, I'll read those links tomorrow. And yes I saved my stock eeprom in 2 folders and I uploaded it to the cloud.
Dude, the race maps are pointless unless you also burn the timing maps with them. Secondly, the fan operates at a desired temp. for a reason. Why would you try and under engineer the solution for too much heat? Just burn the maps and timing tables and see if the fan stays off then.
If I load maps then burn I'm burning timing maps as well correct?
Yes it does both the timing and the fuel maps. Sounds like you did everything correct. Are you happy with how it runs?If I load maps then burn I'm burning timing maps as well correct?
Here's why you could adjust the fan temps. 180*C (356*F) is considered "warmed up" which is already pretty damn hot for normal operating temp. The fan comes on at 220*C (428*F) and that is flirting with being too hot. At those temps my bike would ping and lose power, primarily in summertime riding in 115*F weather. Lowering the turn on temp to 200*C (392*F) allowed to keep a tighter range of operating temps. I rode all last summer with no problems. You have to think a water cooled engine has a lot less forgiveness. They typically operate between 195 - 200*F and 210*F getting HOT and 215-220*F is Overheated and puking coolant all over. Be grateful we can run our bikes at 400*F and not have to worry. LOL The only negative thing I notice about running the fan at lower temps, is it runs longer and more often, which ultimately wears them out. And mine is about there, but I do have a spare.
The bike runs Ok. I rest the tps today. I haven't put but 3 miles on it so far. I'll possibly have it dynod this weekend.
And yeah I live in south Florida in a tourists trap so the bike will see some time idling in traffic on 100 deg days.
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