2005 XB12S Won't Start... no help from ECMSPY

[DamnRock]

I'm going to try to explain this as best I can... I'm not getting any codes from ECMSPY so no help there.

2005 Buell XB12S with 15k miles

Here's the process:

Turn on key...
Switch Run switch to on...
I do hear the typical spinning up of the bike and the gauges cycle, lights are all on, etc...
Hit the Start button...
I hear one loud click, presumably it's the starter... now this is actually the same as always... it typically would give me the loud click/thunk and if I held down the Start button, it would try again and start.
Now at this point, ECMSpy disconnects and the bike doesn't respond to anything for a few minutes. I can turn the key on/off, Run button on/off, hit the Start button... I do hear a little click from the relays in the tail, but no response from gauges (gauges don't cycle) and absolutely no attempt to start the bike. It sits this way for a bit, then I can try again.

I initially thought it was the battery, but it's been on a tender since the last time I rode. When I connected ECMSPY the first time the battery read just under 12V, which is typical for when the bike isn't running.

Any ideas? I'm thinking the starter died, as it always seemed like it was having a tough time starting (i.e. how I had to hold the button down to get through the initial click/thunk and then it would eventually start).

Thanks, Rock

[user_deleted]

a fully charged known good disconnected lead-acid or agm (traditional) XB battery at rest normally shows 12.4-12.6 standing volts. this is with accurate volt meter. don't want to over simplify your problem but sure sounds like battery issue. do NOT rely on a tender to convince you the battery is up to snuff. give it a 4-6 amp steady charge for 1 hour, clean and tighten terminals, check ground cable to its ground post under the seat, then try and report back with findings.

[lawdog]

Yes you need to load test the battery. Bring battery to full charge. Run lights for a couple minutes to burn off surface charge. Use around a 100 amp load tester (load is one-half of batteries cca), apply for 15 seconds. Watch voltage if it drops below this chart, then replace battery.

LOAD TEST
Temperature °F Minimum Voltage Under LOAD
100° 9.9
90° 9.8
80° 9.7
70° 9.6
60° 9.5
50° 9.4
40° 9.3
30° 9.1
20° 8.9
10° 8.7
0° 8.5

If test ok then charge battery to bring back up to proper voltage and continue troubleshooting. Probably battery, ground, cables, or corrosion.

[user_deleted]

^^ brett: that's a great chart and great info.

[ztied]

All good comments,I was going to suggest making sure your terminals are clean,and tight to the battery.Good luck

[Cody04xb12s]

Sounds like a ground issue...I had the same problem

[DamnRock]

so... finally had time to work on the bike... it started acting VERY weird... lights not working some times, other times they would work... the fuel pump wouldn't prime, but every now and then it would. At one point it acted very similar to a bad battery so I replaced it, to no avail.

I checked all the grounds, couldn't find any wires that were exposed or rubbing... all fuses were good, etc. I happened to come across a similar post of a guy with similarly unpredictable things happening, and he found that his problem was his voltage regulator (black box in center of front of frame (behind front tire)... so I removed mine, cleaned the posts and nuts used to attach it to the bike, re-attached, and VOILA! all is well in the world again!

Except one thing... my neutral light isn't right. It only shows neutral when the clutch is pulled in (i.e. while I'm riding, the neutral light flashes on between shifts)... it does NOT show neutral by just having the bike in the right gear. Other than that, everything else is good. I've read about a neutral switch I need to replace, so that's my next task.

Hope this helps someone!

[DamnRock]

Actually, just read that the diode could be in backwards... will check that in the morning and see if that resolves the neutral light issue.