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Thread: Trouble Code 21 - Need help

  1. #1
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    Last Sunday I rebuilt my forks, which went fine. I put everything back together and started the bike, and everything seemed fine, A few minutes into my next ride, I got a check engine light. It's throwing trouble code 21.

    I checked the fuse box, and the 10A Brake/Horn/Exhaust Actuator fuse was blown. I replaced it, and when I turned the key from the Off to On position, the fuse blew again. So I disconnected the rear brake, front brake, horn, and the actuator harness (165) and tried again, but this still blew the fuse. I'm afraid I've got a short somewhere in the harness, but I'm not really sure how to go about finding it. Was hoping someone would have some advice.

    What I did do was get my ohmmeter and check for continuity between the post for the Orange wire on the 165A connector and the ground. I'm not sure if I've got this right, but I think that means I might be dealing with a short from the orange lead to the ground somewhere in the main harness. I'm hoping I'm just confused and wrong, hah.

  2. #2
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    You said this didnt happen till you had removed and reinstalled your forks to rebuild them, id be checking around the steering head for anything you might have pinched in the removal/reinstallation. There is also links to the service manuals up top that have the wiring diagram for your bike if nothing obvious comes up its time to start chasing that circuit

  3. #3
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    could be coincidental with your work but also do this:
    remove airbox cover. replace blown fuse with known good fuse. reconnect the harness for interactive exhaust control module.
    red "kill switch" to ON....hold throttle wide open...look at interactive exhaust module atop airbox inner cover....turn key on. you should now see the interactive exh. module cyle thru and attempt to move cable. if it works as designed you have eliminated the module as the culprit. if it does not move and/or binds up and fuse blows, it is either the module or bound up cable or bound up muffler valve. if that is the case temporarily disconnect cable and go thru this procedure again. report back what you find.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the fast responses, I'm a commuter and anxious to get this up and running as soon as possible.

    Lunatic, I tried that one initially, the fuse blows before the actuator moves. I disconnected the entire actuator assembly as far back as I could (connector 165) and the fuse still blows, so I'm guessing that means it's somewhere before the actuator harness/assembly?

  5. #5
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    ^^^^ correct. then follow instructions posted by cosworth and retrace your work specifically at the steering head where the wires rotate around.....and behind the factory windscreen. there is a short in one of those areas. specifically the wires in and around the steering head can chafe and/or pull apart if you repeatedly went full lock to lock and worked in that area of the bike during fork rebuild. the horn/front brake/IEV circuits are all in that area.

  6. #6
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    Great, big thanks to you guys. Second time you've helped me out lunatic.

    I don't suppose there's a better way than just poking around looking for an exposed wire, is there? I'm not sure how to go about chasing down the circuit other than just moving wires around and looking for wear.

  7. #7
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    I don't suppose there's a better way than just poking around looking for an exposed wire, is there? I'm not sure how to go about chasing down the circuit other than just moving wires around and looking for wear.
    not that i can think of. it is tedious. what i would do is have some spare fuses. if it is 10 amp fuse that pops then temporarily replace with 15 amp. TEMPORARILY being the key word. remove flyscreen and pull the 2 leads from the horn. they are interchangeable. leave front brake wires attached to switch. install fuse...leave flyscreen off, turn on key, leave run switch off....and start wiggling and looking. try the front brake lever and see if fuse pops. if brake light comes on and fuse does not pop then take string or tape and use it to pull lever back and wrap tape or string around grip. this will keep brake light on. then start wiggling and looking. when light goes out due to fuse popping you've found the source.

  8. #8
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    Well, I found it, and of course, it was something dumb I did. Torqued down the handlebars and pinched the LH Control cable. On the plus side, not a lot of damage, and I learned a lot about the bike, hah. Thanks again for all the help.

  9. #9
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    Good deal, glad you found it without too much trouble

    On the upside betcha dont do it again. :D



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