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Thread: Better footpeg ergonomics

  1. #21


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    Yes, I bought a Ulysses rear brake line. Its longer and has a 90 degree banjo fitting that is needed if you do a big drop. Even with the 3/8 plate, I felt it needed more space from the drive belt so I made some angled spacers to go between the brake cylinder and the bracket to kick it out a bit but still keep the heel plate flush in the recess.

  2. #22
    Junior Member
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    Seattle Bueller

    Thanks dur there were also these questions. please.

    "Also, did you need a longer hose to the brake reservoir and to lengthen the brakelight cable?"

    Graham
    07 Ss

  3. #23
    Junior Member
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    Seattle Bueller

    I've made the patterns and am trying to find someone with the right material. I want to use 8mm (5/16") alloy plate.

    Did you have your plates cut from the wooden patterns or did you or someone make a digital file for water or lazer cutting? Or were the plates cut using a bandsaw and then hand or linish finished?

    I plan to use the original frame lowers clamped to the plates to bore the holes in a drill press.

    Cheers
    Graham

  4. #24
    In case anyone else needs a step-by-step, here is how I did it:

    I used the current footpeg bracket to trace and cut the upper mating line on a piece of 3/8" wood (larger than the estimated finished part) then I bolted the wood pieces to the frame,and bolted the lowered foot peg bracket in the desired location to see how it feels. (I ended up drilling a few holes until I got it right) Then with everything bolted in place, I sketched out on the wood the final shape trying to get a smooth transition from the frame to the new footpeg bracket location. At this point you might have to rotate the top of the footpeg bracket to get a good transition, just make sure the footpeg itself stays in the same place. I cut the final wood patterns to shape, then used them to mark the outlines and drill hole locations on the final drop plates.

    I cut the plates out with a band saw then used a disc sander and file to smooth them out.

    Hope this clears it up.

  5. #25
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    Thanks, Seattle Bueller

    Here's a photo of my initial rough mockup using 5mm alloy plate, which is almost strong enough for my 80kg riding weight to stand on but 8mm alloy would be much better. 5mm I can cut with a hand-held jigsaw but for 8mm a bandsaw would definitely be needed as you describe. At the moment I'm tempted to use two layers of 5mm alloy because of cutting ease, and to epoxy them together for added rigidity. I have good grinding gear including a Black & Decker 13mm belted power file which can give a very good finish around curves.



    Because I like to have the gearlever much lower than usual this lowering plate was made but it needs a longer link rod from a Ulysses to work properly. The pivot point is 28mm lower than stock.

    Thanks for sharing your clever answer here. I hadn't thought of it myself.

    Cheers
    Graham

  6. #26
    How are thes holding up?

  7. #27
    Senior Member mmcn49's Avatar
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    Hi Seattle Bueller - Came across you post and decided to give it a try. Have 1/4" templates made and will pick up some 3/8" plat after the holiday. Thanks for doing the write-up, its just what my 68 year old knees needed. With a 2-3/8" drop should be able to keep riding the 07 TT for quite a few more years.

    I live on Bainbridge. If you're still around let me know, either on the thread or PM me.

  8. #28
    Senior Member mmcn49's Avatar
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    Finished and installed the peg extensions on both Buell's. It was quite a bit of work but came out nice, (I'm not a metal worker so it took longer than it should have). Took one of the bikes for a 20+ mile ride yesterday, what a difference, well worth the effort.

    The OP said 2.4" was about the max drop. That's about right but if you fiddle with the gear shifter you could get a little more. Mine ended up between 2-1/4 to 2-3/8". If you decide to make a set first make a plywood template. Strongly suggest going with 3/8" aluminum plate.

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