Reply With QuoteIf there is any stud at all sticking out, get some vice grips on it. Should come out fairly easy with no torque on it. At least ive had good luck with it
ou seem to be eluding that these studs are torque to yield fasteners, can anyone else confirm this? I have never heard that before and the manual doesn't say anything about this. I've had my top end off 2 times and have reused the studs.
I was talking with the guys at my HD when I broke one of mine and they said to always replace those studs for that reason.
If there is any stud at all sticking out, get some vice grips on it. Should come out fairly easy with no torque on it. At least ive had good luck with it
P.s dont screw up the head surface though. Careful!
Well sorry to bring this back up but does anybody have a write up to remove the frame?
I removed the headers without the engine rotation but then messed up while drilling. It looks like I have to remove the head now anyway and have a buddy machine it for me.
The service manual says to rotate the engine to remove the frame but from the pics that Wolfo68 posted above it doesnt look like the engine had been rotated.
whether you lower the engine out the bottom like the manual states or pick the frame off the top while the engine is supported its essentially the same procedure. i put my bike on stands and use a motorcycle jack to lower the engine out.
Awesome! I did it. If you had told me even a few weeks ago that I would be rotating an engine out I would have just laughed at you. Thanks for everybody's help here, Sure could not have done it without you guys. So heres to the little guys who are not that mechanically inclined but who go for it anyway.
Now I just have to get it back together without any leaks!
right on..remove the throttle body. then but the head back on.
Did you replace the cylinder base gasket? I am about to replace leaking push rod cover o-ring, and it looks like if you unscrew the cylinder head you unload whole assembly so I believe it means you break the base gasket too and have to remove the cylinder head completely to replace the cylinder base gasket. It also means you have to remove pistons from the cylinders to be able to replace the base gasket, and as result you have to replace all piston rings by new rings and hone the cylinder before assembling everything back according manual. Did you do all this stuff?
Can't wait for your new thread about it... This ones almost 6 years old.
If you unbolt the head, there is nothing left holding tension on the cylinder so you can just pull it up to replace the gasket.
If your engine wasn't tired, you could raise the cylinder (jug) up just enough to remove the wrist pin with the piston still in the cylinder and separate it from the rod that way.
Since your engine is worn out, the professional mechanic who should be working on your bike will tell you to get new rings and cylinders.
No one, and I mean NO ONE on this planet has ever replaced a superficial pushrod cover leak without another reason to be that far disassembled (like needing an engine re-build).
IMHO, I would solve the problem you have by taking an aerosol cleaner and spray a small amount on a clean rag, then use your finger to wipe the use of the pushrod cover gently for a second or two. When the seepage occurs again in a month or two, repeat the process.
Last edited by Cooter; 11-22-2017 at 05:12 PM.
The engine has only 20000 miles on it, so the engine should be OK.
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