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Thread: Bike Stalls

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    28
    So, I have been reading what people say and it's nothing like my stall. Here's the story. I was riding home about a week ago and right when I started the bike (2005 xb12r), it turned off my headlights and cut power to everything, then the needles on the cluster moved like it was priming the injectors and I kept moving. It backfires on me every once in a while where one of the cylinders just doesn't fire properly, but this time it kinda shut the bike off. Well yesterday night, I was on HWY 41 in Ga coming from Cartersville and it hiccuped. Normally when it does, all power stays on, but I was going 60 mph at 3k rpm. This time the lights shut off and it turned right back on... then about 10 seconds later it cut all power. I pulled off to the side of the road when it was pitch black. Flipped my ignition to off, then on and nothing happened. Almost like a dead battery. Then I went back to it 30 mins later, I went to start it. It sounded like it was struggling with one cylinder (which it almost always sounds like and normally it'll be slow on the first cylinder then start right up), and then cut all power again. It didn't start. 15 mins later I go to do it again and it struggles as stated, but starts up. I ride it to hwy 92 and it cuts out on me again. Today I woke up and pulled the battery and went across the street to Autozone, guy said battery is great. Reading a 94% charge and almost 13 volts. Bike is stuck.. and I've no idea what to do. Anyone had a similar problem with the bike cutting all power until you wait about an hour? Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    28
    Also, forgot to mention. I think it has something to do with the fan. Now whenever I turn the bike off the fan doesn't come on.. and it ALWAYS comes on, even for a sec. Short or relay... something?

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    1,317
    Have you seen a code set OR the Yelloow cel light come on at all? IF not maybe it is time to use the Diagnostics Plug to check for codes by using your Data Plug. Look that up http://www.bc rider.com/DDFI.html
    If your fan is not coming on then the bike will overheat YES even if you are riding down the road and so on.First check your Fuses. Then the Relays. Check here on the Forum for the Manuals to help you get started in the right direction. Hopefully it is a Temperature Sensor for the fan OR maybe just the fan Relay . The Key Switch does need to be Checked.
    If you have a lot of Keys on your Key Ring keep it simple for your bike. House Keys and lock Keys for your Bike Keys etc...The Weight can really wear on the Tumbler. NOT saying that is exactly what is going on but these are Areas of interest to Start with.The Relays and Fuses first,
    THEN the Wiring at the Forks going up to the KeySwitch . Then the Grounds on the bike and take your time as you go. THE Temperature Sensor is usually in the Rear Head of the Engine. Small Things First. After the Small Items then Find your Wiring going to your fan and make sure it is in good shape and plugged in.
    If you Find A Blown Fuse then Always Replace a Fuse with the exact same Fuse Amps as ReQuired. Check your Fan and if you are Experienced with ECMSPY the Diagnostics program is a great investment . Finally Check your Ignition Module BUT one thing at a time. Take your time and post up if needed. *Jimi

  4. #4
    Inactive
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    AmishLand, PA.
    Posts
    7,526
    sir: you have a pretty simple intermittent electrical disconnect. pull the main breaker/fuse called the "J" fuse. it is grayish-pink in color with clear top and is 30amp i believe. make sure the contacts are nice and corrosion free. and what JimiJeans said on your main ignition switch. i say it is either that switch or your red on/off right handlebar switch gear mounted switch. i would also check your sidestand switch if your bike is so equipped. you have either a corroded connection or a bad component in one of those 3 areas i'm guessing.

  5. #5
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    28
    Thank you guys for your help. I was having this problem intermittently until it just gave out. When I unplugged the battery for a few hours, I guess it reset the system or there was a bad battery connection. I also pulled all the fuses and relays and made sure that all connections were clean. It looked like the fuse to the ignition was a little dirty so I cleaned it. Rode it home in the rain on the day that it was broken down and it never broke down so I assume that it isn't a bad ground. Also checked as many grounds as I could find. Now I have gone about 3 or 4 more gas tanks and haven't had a problem. Also, my oil was low by about a quart (I'm ashamed of myself since I'm so good with maintenance). Everything is running smoothly and as you said, maybe it was an intermittent bad connection? Or the computer needed to be reset (I'll do a TPS reset via ecm cable soon)? Or the fuse was dirty (looked like it had black soot on it). It doesn't stutter and cut ignition anymore, but most off it doesn't stutter at all at 60 mph or anything. Thank you all for your help and I will let you know if anything changes.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    473
    Maybe it was a poor battery connection



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