And.........this means what?....that you can read a description on a website? Or that the less then 100 bikes made not sold, could have this rotor on it.......
Don't be so naive...........
Ebr has probably sold over 5 time the rotors then the bikes that they had built, and the only reason why is.... that ebr rotors are a way cheaper alternative to stock or gaffer rotor.
I will update with more info tomorrow when I take the front brake off again. I really loved the look of the EBR disk but wished they offered the 6mm again, I think that was probably one of their good ones. The old drilled ones to me warped even faster but at least they were straight to begin with.
Just because you can't see it doesn't mean that the wheel isn't damaged (buckled) - you may have hit a pothole or such like.
I would get the wheel properly checked to make sure that is is true and within the specs printed in the service manual ...
I have a 5mm rotor and it works great. I dont think thats your problem. Have you seen this thread? http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Foru...R-Racing-Rotor
Looks like you are starting to get the same pattern as dingo. What kind of pads are you using? In the end dingo ended up getting pads and a new rotor from ebr.
This started happening with the old pads and old rotor and became progressive. I bought new pads (with the old rotor, that didnt fix anything and made it worse where the brake would lock up) and so I bought the new rotor and hardware. The pads have less then 100 miles on them.
And sportster, I agree that it could be possible but I HIGHLY doubt it is the wheel now. Looking at where the mounting points are, it would have to a HUGE hit in order to damage and move the point or the area around the point. Plus the only riding I have been doing even before this started was in town riding at 35mph or less.
Sent EBR a message and this picture, with the link to the other guy who had this problem.
We will see what they say. I also asked how this could happen and if the 6mm would have the same problem.
I'm a machinist, and that sure looks like "chatter" to me. When a surface grinder leaves marks like that its often because the stone is glazed. On your bike the "stone" would be the brake pads. Anyway, back to the machine shop analogy, once the chatter marks are there, you'll need to resolve them otherwise even if you take care of the glazing the disc will have tiny variations in thickness that will induce the chattering again. To get rid of those marks completely you'd need to have the disc ground until it has virtually zero variation in thickness. You'd need a micrometer to measure the variation, by the way. It could be only a few thousandths of an inch of variation.
I know my way around a machine shop as well, this isnt even off by a thousandths of an inch just yet. This is a problem with the way they machined the rotor.
There's also a distinction between the rotors being flat and the rotors being uniform thickness. You need both, of course. If they look like that but are genuinely the same thickness throughout, then those rotors might be warped. That's a bigger challenge to measure.
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