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Thread: Rebound question.

  1. #1
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    Rebound question.

    How many full turns should be available on the forks?

    I had my seals and stuff done and when I got the forks back I had like 1 turn on one side and almost 2 on the other. Brought them back and they adjusted them and now I only have 1 turn each side and the guy said the manual states that.
    My manual recommends 1.75 turns for some rider weight so I'd assume at least that much would be available plus some.

    I left the bike but am beginning to doubt the profeciency of the shop.

  2. #2
    Senior Member BambamXB12r's Avatar
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    Probably just a different year. My 09 calls for even more.
    image.jpg

  3. #3
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    I guess it might help, I've got an 07 xb12s
    I'm just wondering how many turns I should have available, not what I should set it for.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Chicknstripn's Avatar
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    Sounds like you should be looking in the service manual for what is specific to your bike on how the adjuster is suppose to be set before, during and after a rebuild. When I rebuilt the forks on my 07 xb12r I remember the service manual being very specific as to how the adjuster must be set during the rebuild processss in order to NOT lose the full range of the adjuster screw/rebound movement and or adjustability.
    Sounds like your rebound screw/adjuster was not set/reset properly during the rebuild.
    If I were you I'd take the service manual to the shop that did your rebuild and ask them to follow it specifically.
    That's my 2cents. Hope it helps
    Good luck

  5. #5
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    There is a specific procedure for re-assembling the Showa adjustable forks.
    It's where the locknut is at the top, under the main cap, below the pre-load nut. It makes sure that you get full adjustment and more importantly, that they are equal.

    The short story is that the dimension between the rebound adjuster rod (long pointy thing) and top of the cap need to be equal and precise. The long pointy thing fits into an orifice at the bottom to slow down the oil= rebound control. The procedure is in your manual. You can do it on the bike if you have too, but FYI you will still have to compress the springs to re-assemble.

    Remember that the factory settings are just a starting point for your total weight with full gear and riding preferences, and are assuming a totally stock bike. Different tires ("tyres" Tone) and different fork oil brands and weight will change that setting drastically.

    Edit: I didn't think there was a difference in R vs. S forks? (Other than the 41mm to 43mm change, and obviously Scg)
    Last edited by Cooter; 11-03-2015 at 06:36 PM.

  6. #6
    Senior Member ToneTheMoan's Avatar
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    "tyres" thanks Cooter! lol

  7. #7
    Senior Member midway's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    There is a specific procedure for re-assembling the Showa adjustable forks.
    It's where the locknut is at the top, under the main cap, below the pre-load nut. It makes sure that you get full adjustment and more importantly, that they are equal.

    The short story is that the dimension between the rebound adjuster rod (long pointy thing) and top of the cap need to be equal and precise. The long pointy thing fits into an orifice at the bottom to slow down the oil= rebound control. The procedure is in your manual. You can do it on the bike if you have too, but FYI you will still have to compress the springs to re-assemble.
    I've identified this to be the case for my front fork rebound dampening. Dealer touted their new fork seals as a selling point but apparently didn't pay attention to the travel this screw should have been allowed on reassembly.

    I see one of you has a degree in rocket science on YT. Not sure which one of you this is but you're my first choice for advice on what can be done to compensate for having only one full turn on each rebound screw not two as the SM states should be available. Obviously I won't be going after this until new seals are needed again but what if I backed off the preload one ring and accepted the loss of a half turn (for my weight) on the rebound? Do you see this as a possible patch for now?

    Who did this... Cooter?----> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FptHgvIhO4
    Last edited by midway; 08-15-2017 at 02:57 PM.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Not me, I've only ever posted myself on YouTube one time:

    https://youtu.be/S50p5nZ8lTs

    I would highly recommend fixing the forks as it is critical that they are the same. You can fix them on the bike if you hang the front end, loosen the upper triple, and take off the fork caps. Follow the service procedure from there and you are GTG.
    No need to change seals, or mess with the oil but I would check the level for sure considering the shoddy work they did.

  9. #9
    Senior Member midway's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cooter View Post
    I would highly recommend fixing the forks as it is critical that they are the same. You can fix them on the bike if you hang the front end, loosen the upper triple, and take off the fork caps. Follow the service procedure from there and you are GTG.
    The rebounds are wrong, but collectively wrong so I'm stable unless you mean in relation to the compression settings then yes they cannot be matched. My understanding is rebound and compression do not have to mate in setting when seeking preferences beyond default SM setting charts.

    Am I misunderstanding your comment from Nov12th posted above "You can do it on the bike if you have too, but FYI you will still have to compress the springs to re-assemble." If I don't have to compress the springs then this falls back a little from the 'long beard' difficulty level I see in the video and I might proceed with getting this corrected right away. Which btw Cole Houser in that fork seal replacement video is macgyver/genius The trail guide in your video... not so much
    Last edited by midway; 08-15-2017 at 06:32 PM.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    I read your post wrong and thought they were mis matched. If they are equal (to each other) and you can get the setting you like (throw the factory weight chart away now) then no worries.

    Compressing the spring can be done by hand when the forks are mounted to something solid (like on the bike) and you're not a sissy

    Ya that looked like his garage. It's AZMidget

    Gotta put air quotes around "trail guide" guy didn't even flinch



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