All i know is everyone recommends NGK DCPR9EIX. It's what installed on my bike, with no complaints.
http://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthr...E3-spark-plugs
http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/me...tml?1208100924
has anyone ever tried e3 spark plugs in a 2009 1203
All i know is everyone recommends NGK DCPR9EIX. It's what installed on my bike, with no complaints.
http://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthr...E3-spark-plugs
http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/me...tml?1208100924
they now list two for my ulysses one normal and one race E3.36 price is right either one for 6 bucks
^^^^^ Words from the Buell whisperer once again.
They don't do it as often as they used to but for a while there, every week was a new 'trick' spark plug. The same ol' thing over and over with a different grounding electrode. They all just shrouded the spark moreThey are a simple part that's been over-thought ever since they made the first one. $40 for one spark plug?? not me...
The advantages of using an exotic metal like iridium and platinum at the spark gap has several advantages. Like Lunatic said the thin (.4mm) electrode helps to un-shroud the spark. That's more access to light the gas mixture You also get higher temp capability (It won't melt and deform as fast as copper), and lastly there is much less degradation at the spark gap. They quote 50K+miles in a car... so you don't have to replace them for a very, very long time which is great for us Buellers!
Cliff notes: Use good platinum or iridium plugs (like the OEM's do) and stay away from the Vatozone promos
Jumping onto this existing thread: If I get the NGK DCPR9EIX as you guys recommend;
1) does it fit my 06 Ulysses? (Amazon says it doesn't but I'd believe you over Amazon)
2) I've never used iridium plugs, do I need to gap these to spec? Or are they already gapped for my bike?
3) Side related, how much of a pain in the ass is it to change them? Couldn't find the section in the service manual, but it looks like the rear cylinder is going to require me to swing the engine out....hopefully I'm mistaken?
does it fit my 06 Ulysses? yes.
I've never used iridium plugs, do I need to gap these to spec? that topic as wildly popular and highly debated on here as oil and tires. YES....the air gap should be checked. if you're a novice to both wrenching and iridium spark plugs chances are excellent you'll ruin them doing so.
ide related, how much of a pain in the ass is it to change them? very tedious and challenging. front plug straight forward....rear will test your patience. i can supply you a verbal tutorial on the rear plug change when the time comes but strongly suggest you get assistance from someone who's done it before. NO on the engine rotation. YES on special care with cylinder head threads and plug wires.
I've read that it is difficult to gap them, is that just because the metal is stiffer? What is the correct method of doing this? I've gapped regular cheapo plugs before without issue.
Regarding the rear cylinder, how on earth do you get to it then if you don't rotate it? Remove the entire Air cleaner assy, and left side air scoop? Then just finagle the plug in there without getting dirt into the hole and without cross threading it? Yikes. Also, on my vehicles, we usually put anti-seize on our plugs. I know this is debated because it lubes the threads; reducing friction and can potentially lead to over torquing....but what's your advice on that regarding the bike? Are those aluminum or steel threads?
EDIT: I found your response in another semi-related post:
"remove spark plugs. rear can be removed by getting down to the air box base plate and removing same. this gives access to rear plug which is removed with 3/8th drive ratchet...extension...swivel...and 5/8th captive plug socket"
This sucks bc I actually had this all tore down to run my gps hookup to the battery....Knew I should have left it apart. I also should have listened to your advice and just wired it into the harness up by the headlight. Dislocated my damn finger trying to weasel it through everything
Last edited by cknapp; 06-20-2017 at 01:16 PM.
I also should have listened to your advice and just wired it into the harness up by the headlight. Dislocated my damn finger trying to weasel it through everything
i not only advised you against adding gps wiring directly to the battery....but typed out the precise directions and procedures to wire it directly to the headlight wiring harness. clearly was a complete waste of my valuable time.