Occasional blips and farts since installing NGK plugs

[user_deleted]

cody: i don't know the year of your ulysses but every 1203 model i've owned which including uly's is probably 12 or so by now...all bucked and banged when cold regardless of year...which seemed to coincide with when they were in "open-loop" warm-up mode. i resolved this on all the pre-2008 models with a generic "race map", a dedicated ground from the rear dog-bone braided wire to the negative batt cable ground source in conjunction with all you've already done. though it doesn't always activate the CEL and store a fault code.... an O2 sensor heading to death-row causes the "bucking bronco" effect after the bike has warmed up.

[BuellyBagger]

Suppose I could build myself a little ground strap like you mentioned John, couldn't hurt! The bike is a 2007 has 13500 miles on it now. After installing the ebr ecm years ago the bike did run much smoother while warming up than it had with stock fueling. The little sputter does seem to be within the time frame the bike goes from closed loop to open.
When I get a bit of time I think I'll just go ahead and do all the cheap and easy possible fixes and cross my fingers. If that doesn't work I'll just ride it until it finally tells me itself what's wrong lol!

[user_deleted]

Suppose I could build myself a little ground strap like you mentioned John, couldn't hurt! The bike is a 2007 has 13500 miles on it now. After installing the ebr ecm years ago the bike did run much smoother while warming up than it had with stock fueling. The little sputter does seem to be within the time frame the bike goes from closed loop to open.
When I get a bit of time I think I'll just go ahead and do all the cheap and easy possible fixes and cross my fingers. If that doesn't work I'll just ride it until it finally tells me itself what's wrong lol!

cody: i looked at my prior post again and what i meant by that dedicated wire is from one of the COIL HOLD-DOWN BOLTS back to the ground on frame that the negative battery cable shares. you might also have a lazy O2 sensor as previously mentioned.

[mosquito]

Try a different set of plugs. I had the head off my Celica while changing the timing chain so I put new plugs in it. When I fired it up, it was only running on three cylinders. A long story short: one plug's center electrode ceramic insulator was broken right out of the box. When you held it upside down to examine/gap it, all looked good but when installed that little &%$#@ slid down, obscuring the gap! Still have that plug! Not saying that's your problem but try another set...worst case-you'll have spares!

[BuellyBagger]

cody: i looked at my prior post again and what i meant by that dedicated wire is from one of the COIL HOLD-DOWN BOLTS back to the ground on frame that the negative battery cable shares. you might also have a lazy O2 sensor as previously mentioned.

10-4 john

Try a different set of plugs.worst case-you'll have spares!

i think i will

[njloco]

O.k. this is more of a question than an answer and, I don't mean to high jack.
Years ago we would slowly pour some water into the throat of a carburator to help clean out the built up carbon, I know these engines do build up carbon and, I'm not saying this is the problem. We also used to spray carb cleaners into the throat and all the rubber hose connections, again I'm not saying this is the problem but since I'm not that familiar with the newer intake systems I'm just throwing it out there. I know, I know, just stand on the side and listen, old guy.
We have Seafoam now ?

P.S. there was a post about installing a separate ground strap from the battery to one of the bolts holding down the ECM. Some reported smoother running but it seemed to be more for cruising at 2-3000 rpm and above.

[GregoXB]

Why go with aftermarket plugs when the Harley plugs sit perfectly deep and are gapped spot on right out of the box?

Also, let me add.... the boots have to be snugged on very tight till you can audibly hear the "click." If it doesn't click, it is not on....

[BuellyBagger]

thought i'd post this link as I've been doing some spark plugs research: https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-...rk-plug-basics might be helpful to others
I now see that the "8" ngk's are a higher heat range than the "9's" and did some reading of some old buellitan boards posts that allude to the original plugs recommended for my bike were that higher heat range and then the harley number changed/ superceded to the newer cooler range.

DCPR8EIX is equivalent to the older Buell 6R12, a hotter plug. DCPR9EIX is equal to the newer Buell 10R12, one stage cooler.

Possibly to help with pinging?? anyways maybe just the cooler range takeing a bit longer to gain heat is the reason im noticing minor fits during warm up? have noted less pinging with these new plugs now that i think of it as well. ordering a new pair of 9's making sure there gapped right and going from there.....

[Cooter]

I'm waiting to pat myself on the back for a good guess. Tuned in, Good luck Buelly!

[GregoXB]

I have been running these for the last 1000 miles, no problems.

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