Help getting to the stator...

[airbozo]

OK, I am stumped. I recently changed my primary oil seal and getting everything off was not an issue. After putting everything back together, the stator failed (no ac out and it failed the "sniff test"). So last night I attempted to tear it apart and for the life of me I cannot remove the sprocket rotor assembly. It just won't budge. It came off pretty easy the first time, but even though it seems to spin freely, I cannot pull it out to get the stator off.

Any suggestions on removing that bugger?

Thanks!

[Cooter]

I don't understand what you are describing.

Buellmods.com has owners manuals to download for free. You can check the factory service procedure.

[airbozo]

I have the manuals. even followed the youtube video about replacing the seal, went off without a hitch. I even made my own seal install tool on a 3d printer that worked perfectly.

Last night I opened everything up after finding out the stator is not putting any AC out. I removed both nuts (Clutch and sprocket) and the clutch basket will come out freely, but for the life of me I cannot get the sprocket part off. It's the part with the magnets over the stator. It spins OK, but I cannot pull it off the shaft. It does not budge at all. I was going to check tonight if some of the locktite got down the splines and if so, I'll hit it with a torch.

#3 in this picture:

[TPEHAK]

Remove the primary chain first. Then pull the sprocket. You might need a pulling tool according manual. I pulled my sprocket with no tools.

[TPEHAK]

Do not use torch or any heat! You can damage the magnets glue and they can fall off.

[Cooter]

The stator is the thing with the wires. The rotor is the thing with the magnets that rotates.
Put the nut back on the shaft loosely and while you are pulling on the rotor tap the nut on the shaft with a brass hammer. Don't meat hand it and it should break free without the proper puller, which of course is the right way to do it as explained in the manual you have and even though you should own a basic tool like that before you attempt such a repair thay are available to rent from most auto parts stores for free.

Got a locking tool?

Good luck.

[squidbuellie]

As long as you have the nut off of the crank. The stator bell should come right off.... Just keep in mind that it is a magnet so it will be hard to pull off at first... The key is not to tug on it you have to get a grip and pull slow.

[airbozo]

No issues taking the nuts off (used a 4" brass hinge for the locking tool), and I tried using an expensive puller, but the jaws were to thick to be able to grab underneath the chain. I even tried it in the 2 jaw setup, but I could not get it to seat properly on just the sprocket. Was ready to throw in the towel and take it to my mechanic, when I saw a cheap puller at the auto parts store. Turns out the jaws were thin enough to get under the chain, but that caused another issue with the puller being off kilter (difference between the sprocket and chain), so it would not grab anything. Kept trying and eventually it grabbed the chain and the rotor came off with minimal force. I have my primary chain with me and I am going to take it in for inspection, even though there are no bent or nicked parts. Just in case they see something I don't.

Turns out I was a bit too generous with the locktite and it was on the splines which was holding it in. Gotta watch that next time I put it back together.

I removed the old stator and used the string trick to capture the wire for re-threading, but that has not gone well either. For the life of me I cannot get the connector routed where the last one was, but I will try again tonight when I have more patience.

Cotter: I did not see the puller used in the manual, but I relied more on the youtube procedure. I will check again tonight. I actually have a steering wheel/ timing gear puller, but that needs somewhere for the bolts to screw into which there is not. My next thought was to use a bearing splitter since it has a plate that would fit underneath the entire sprocket and chain. Luckily I didn't have to rent one.

There is a significant amount of metal shavings on the rotor magnets that _look_ to be left over from the tensioner shoe destruction. Any suggestions on how to remove as much of those shavings as possible?

Also, what should I use to clean out the clutch and transmission to make sure all the shavings are gone? After doing this twice, I want to make sure I take care of everything that is visible before buttoning it back up (yes, with minimal red locktite!).