Dobek TPI vs today's world

[lowkey]

Coil and plug wires automatically needing to be replaced on a "new to you" bike is unneeded IMO, they are pretty stout. Coil wires in his case are being replaced because of a separation on the front cylinder one. Spark is spark, if there is an issue with those two items you would feel it then see it in the ECU errors most likely as misfires.

Rocker boxes were covered under the first half and yes I'd agree that if they are stock and the bike has some miles you are probably going to find a leak, as for PCV grommets I haven't seen to many issues with those, would it show as oil pooling around them or? How does one check for issues?

[Simplymichaeljr]

The pcv grommet is rubber and will rot over time. Signs are similar to a failed gasket. And the coil IMO is preventative maintenance. These are things I would do if you rotate the motor to replace the gaskets since it's right there and its one less thing to worry about for another 10k miles

[34nineteen]

I put my responses in this quote.

The "checklist" I would recommend when picking up a new XB:

- Check all grounds and clean if needed - Already done. I've heard about all of the weird issues with XB's and a bad ground.

- Check all wiring under the seat make sure nothing is frayed or pinched -Done. Found a pinched white wire coming from the ECM. I don't think the copper was compromised, but I did pull apart the connector and slip a piece of heat shrink over it.

- Check under the wind screen at all wiring for the above issues - Done! Cleaned at looks good!

- Check if rocker boxes are leaking and fix - James gasket kit is good - Looks good so far.

- Check header gasket at the cylinders for leaks, check that the muffler is properly seated onto the header and that there is no leak there. - I'm expecting a stock muffler to arrive this week from BuellyBagger and plan on going through it at that time per factory instructions to last detail. I've heard the horror stories, esp from tubers.

- Check for intake gasket leaks with bike running spray carb clean around if idle changes you have a leak - James "blue" seals work great here - Already on the list of things to do. My M2 would not seal with James gaskets. I don't know why!

- Do the breather reroute right now! Drivability will be cleaned up because of it - PO already did it. I think it's an ASB kit

- How's the air filter? Paper? Change to the K&N reusable or clean and oil it if it already has one. - PO already did it and oiled the living ^#} out of it. I must have pulled an ounce out of the recesses of the airbox bottom plate

- If you've gone this far now is the time to change out those spark plugs for the NGK-DCPR9EIX verify the gap .035 - Check! I still need to buy them.

- How many miles on the bike? Close to 15K? Change the 02 sensor as thats about how long they last, what's another $15 bucks... - Good idea! Thank you again!

At this point You've gone through and prepped the bike for what will hopefully be a pleasant experience.

- Go into the ECU with ECMdroid or ECMspy or TunePro and check historic codes and write them down or screen shot them. Not so sure about them look on the forum to see what solved them for others, keep in mind you may already have with the above list completed! Also keep in mind one issue can be reported as several issues that are down stream... example: bad ground could through up a bunch of other codes, only real issue was the bad ground. I wouldn't dwell on the codes at this stage just look them over and look them up. - I need to take the bike for a long ride around town to ferret out any other issues and see if I can catch another code.

- Save the map on your bike before you flash a "stock" or "race" map, I'd hold off on flashing anything if the AFV is close to 100% as that indicates your map is a good match. - I'm waiting for the stock muffler to arrive before I do anything to the ECM. Cole recommended knocking the AFV down a bit (it's a 132%).

- With the map saved go ahead and bring the bike up to operating temp then perform the TPS reset and reset the AFV value to 100% - Yep! See above.

- Put in 91 or better gas (I'd put in some injector cleaner as well) and ride it, the ECU is going to adjust so don't freak out if it is less than perfect right away (could even ride worse than before the AFV/TPS reset). Try to put the bike through low med and high RPM on streets and highway for at least 50 miles - Already filled with 92, and I bought some Chevron injector cleaner. I will probably replace the O2 sensor AFTER this.

- Any trouble codes? Now is the time to address them - Yeppers!

- AFV changed? now it's 105%? Your bike is running lean, You have an exhaust and open air-box but stock map loaded from when you bought it? Try and dig up a reputable map that matches your parts. Compare the fuel maps with the one you were running - I probably have a stock map as the Dobek was probably on the to fatten up the mix. The plan is to leave the K&N filter and not cut the airbox, and run the stock pipe. I have a Drummer SS on it right now.


- AFV is now under 100% and no trouble codes? Your bike is running rich which shouldn't really happen unless the map has been messed with. Maybe the previous owner had an exhaust but sold it separately to make more money leaving you with stock exhaust and a "race" map loaded... - See above

Hopefully this helps new owners, any tuning past a map and you will need to research.

Thank you for getting me this checklist. I'll probably just start a new thread with a story (if there is one).

[34nineteen]

^^^^might as well change wires and coil. Check pcv grommets and change if rocker box gaskets are leaking

I have new wires already. I've never heard of the coil being an issue?

I'll check the PCV grommets as well. I'd imagine an engine rotate would be in order for that. And if that's the case, I'll do the rocker boxes, and intake seals for good measure.

[34nineteen]

The pcv grommet is rubber and will rot over time. Signs are similar to a failed gasket. And the coil IMO is preventative maintenance. These are things I would do if you rotate the motor to replace the gaskets since it's right there and its one less thing to worry about for another 10k miles

I'll probably pick up a coil at some point for my "rotate date".

[lowkey]

- Save the map on your bike before you flash a "stock" or "race" map, I'd hold off on flashing anything if the AFV is close to 100% as that indicates your map is a good match. - I'm waiting for the stock muffler to arrive before I do anything to the ECM. Cole recommended knocking the AFV down a bit (it's a 132%).

Yeah this one won't apply for you at that stage but it does apply, you just can't judge the map on there by the AFV value you are seeing, your piggyback was doing a number to the AFV value it seems, you will just move on with the list and reset AFV and ride now that the piggyback is removed.

- Do the breather reroute right now! Drivability will be cleaned up because of it - PO already did it. I think it's an ASB kit

- How's the air filter? Paper? Change to the K&N reusable or clean and oil it if it already has one. - PO already did it and oiled the living ^#} out of it. I must have pulled an ounce out of the recesses of the airbox bottom plate

I would investigate the pooled oil and where it came from, could be a wrongly routed breather hose (double check the routing and logic of termination) OR it could be just from over oiling the filter but that is a LOT of oil then...

PCV's DO have to be replaced with the motor rotated so good plan there. 02 can be accessed with the removal of the fan (non-motor rotate) OR if you rotate the motor go ahead and do it then.

Don't know on the James gaskets... they are way better than the stock ones I pulled out, just have to tighten everything back up evenly and maybe lube them so an edge doesn't catch when getting manifold back back in.

[34nineteen]

Yeah this one won't apply for you at that stage but it does apply, you just can't judge the map on there by the AFV value you are seeing, your piggyback was doing a number to the AFV value it seems, you will just move on with the list and reset AFV and ride now that the piggyback is removed.



I would investigate the pooled oil and where it came from, could be a wrongly routed breather hose (double check the routing and logic of termination) OR it could be just from over oiling the filter but that is a LOT of oil then...

PCV's DO have to be replaced with the motor rotated so good plan there. 02 can be accessed with the removal of the fan (non-motor rotate) OR if you rotate the motor go ahead and do it then.

Don't know on the James gaskets... they are way better than the stock ones I pulled out, just have to tighten everything back up evenly and maybe lube them so an edge doesn't catch when getting manifold back back in.

Yep, resetting the AFV setting is definitely on the list. Ideally, I'm wanting to get the bike back to stock and start over. I'm imagining I'm going leave the K&N filter in place and go back to the stock muffler. A 12 makes plenty of power IMO, and I really just want it to be smooth and usable power.

The oil was definitely K&N filter oil. It was cool when I was in my 20's, but the whole wash/dry/reoil thing will probably give way to going back to a stock paper element (aka getting lazy).

Good to know about the O2 sensor being accessed by removing the fan. I'll probably just replace that for the heck of it.

[lowkey]

I hear you on the K&N but really how often will you have to do that procedure based on mileage? Maybe once every other year? Your air box is inclosed and your outer box is stock so really it shouldn't get to dirty, I'd run it all day over a stock paper filter. As for running the stock exhaust, hopefully the PO didn't remove the servo for it. I don't even consider an air filter and a muffler "modded" just improvements really... those can be swapped back in less than an hour so no harm there. With those a breather reroute and tune to match the drivability goes up and that is what makes the bike enjoyable, really there is now downside other than intake and exhaust noise decibels go up some.

On that 02 through the fan housing, you would also need to support the bike from the exhaust and pull the shock, no big deal unless you can't jack the bike from the exhaust. (stock and D&D are fine to lift from)

[34nineteen]

Good point on the air filter. I just remembered having one in my daily driver car was kind of a pain when it was time to clean/dry/reoil.

Servo is still there, however he pulled the cable. I hear it's "fun" re-routing those without rotating the engine.

So, i just got back from a 40 mile test ride and brought along the tuner and Bluetooth. AFV went down to 102% on its own.

No codes until I was coming back and received a short flicker of the CEL. Code 21 -AMC stuck open? Umm okay?

I think I will disable that next solenoid before the next test ride, and see what I get.

Driveability was good except for a little decel popping under engine braking. Probably normal, just not hear with the stock pipe. I was also thinking about fattening up the AFV to 98% to smooth her out and maybe lower temps a bit. We'll see... more work to come.

[lowkey]

CEL. Code 21 this is the exhaust actuator and it will be like this until you wire it back up AND have the stock exhaust that it can work on, until then just turn it off, this is what is done on all 12's with an aftermarket exhaust or modded-non valve stock one.

You are going to be chasing your tail with AFV, it doesn't work like that. The AFV will fluctuate while riding all the time that is its job it has a window of roughly 90% to 110% to play with accurately. Ambient temps, elevation, humidity, stop and go, or riding flat out will all have an affect on what it decides to do.
What you want is to be closest to 100% in your normal riding situation so that it has the full range to work with when outside of your normal riding situation.

Think of it like this, you start out at sea level on a 90 degree sunny day, your AFV is 100%. You head to the rockies through the night and it's 35 degrees and elevation goes up to 15 thousand feet. The bike uses this window to adjust accordingly so that the engine isn't choking and coughing its way over the mountain.

If you ride around daily and AFV is say 115%, what do you think the bike would run like in the pervious example? Crap...

Popping on deceleration is normal, noticeable with a non-stock exhaust and still there with a stock one but much harder to notice. It can be adjusted with tuning but again nothing to worry about.