Just grease the ferrules and moving parts, that was the directions included with my barnett SS braided clutch cable
Just grease the ferrules and moving parts, that was the directions included with my barnett SS braided clutch cable
So, I just replaced my cable with a new one, and put new OEM levers on my bike, running Formula +, and John is right, I can pretty much 2 finger this clutch lever. I guess all of that little bits of friction add up.
I've had pretty good luck running Formula + in my bikes, and I may have to try out AMSOIL. Maybe one day I can prove John wrong (but probably not!)
lunaticfringe = spot on.
you summed it all up aaron. applicable to any cable operated cycle clutch. between the perch/lever....the cable...the actuating mechanism...and the pressure plate or spring....friction in ever increasing tiny increments all adds up. an XB with all the items checked/lubed/adjusted in the order that i mentioned always results when properly performed in a light lever pull with nice, smooth consistent engagement. a major player in the entire episode is the diaphragm clutch pressure spring. it's a very nice piece.
Its funny, as I can swear I can actually feel the "wave" as the diaphragm spring flexes.
Do you know if there is a suitable replacement bushing for the clutch lever pivot? It doesnt show one in the HD/Buell books, but I'd imagine that bushing may be available for some other brand who uses a lever from the same factory? My current bike had a set of CRG levers and the clutch pivot hole is all ovalled out. I think I may have found a nylon bushing to retrofit into alloy to steel pivot pin interface. If longevity of the nylon is poor, the upside is that they are inexpensive and easy to source, until I can find something else that could work.
I ponied up and bought a set of OEM black levers from Lance for now.