Reply With QuoteCheck your ground wires. I'll let John give his spill about ground wires if he thinks that is the culprit.
First off I have researched everywhere and tried everything I could before posting but I have a 2004 buell xb12s. It has k&n air filter with torque hammer exhaust and has been dyno tuned. I have reset tps, changed fuel, fuel filter, fuel regulator, and cam shaft position sensor. It was running great until about two days ago I cut it off and when I came back out it wouldn't start. I changed spark plugs and didn't help, it will fire now but stalls right back out. Any ideas??
Check your ground wires. I'll let John give his spill about ground wires if he thinks that is the culprit.
Here's John's quote;Originally Posted by Simplymichaeljr
Electrical Gremlin's
Having repaired yet another one of these electrical gremlins over the weekend thought i'd mention a common source of electrical anomalies and an easy fix for same. XB models have multiple grounding points for current flow including the large braided T-bone wire....the negative battery cable to frame lug...and the elusive bottom triple clamp grounding point. Here's something to keep in mind and as of saturday this is probably the 20th-something XB i've done this repair on. Symptoms: handlebar switch gear controls inconsistent....one or both headlights randomly turn off....turn signals decide not to flash or even illuminate....dash cluster lights and gauges acting up....horn failure....one or both headlights normal then dim then back to normal. The likely culprit?The 4-wire ground cluster. Location? Front of bottom triple clamp. How is it attached? One torx screw. Where is it attached? Front middle of bottom triple clamp. What does it look like? 4 black wires attached to 2 round wiring eyelets. Proven repair? On Ulysses and Lightning models remove the flyscreen(4 screws), remove the headlight bucket(3 torx screws-1 per side and 1 on bottom),look at bottom triple clamp and there's the torx screw and the 4-wire ground cluster. Those 4 wires have a tendency over time to dislodge themselves from the 2 small wire terminals causing one or more of the above problems. Fix? Pull firmly on the wires and you'll gain a bit of slack in them. snip off the 2 crappy factory terminal ends. strip approx. 1/2 inch of insulation from each wire...bundle the 4 ends together...solder together....then install in 1 top quality terminal and reattach. You'll be surprised how more consistent the bikes' lights and controls are with this simple fix.
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btw the 'one' torx screw... I'm still trying to get at it
BOOM!!! I snaked it out with the old a bit on a visegrip. Now I can brush this up and avoid them gremlins!
Last edited by midway; 02-21-2017 at 12:41 AM.
it will fire now but stalls right back out. Any ideas?? and how long does it actually run? either fuel delivery problem....cps changed position....cracked ecm unit at wiring harness plug-ins. have you checked all your fuses and relays?
There was no ground there on my bike. I manually read the codes on it and it was doing 6 rapid flashes and 6 slow flashes?
lunaticfringe, i have checked all grounds with no issue, how would the cps move? and it was a matter of 5 minutes of running great to not running at all.
trouble codes read as follows using the jumper wire method: NOTE: this is from memory but should be spot on:
1-red run switch to off position...turn key on....should cycle thru with jumper wire connected in approx. 8 seconds or so.
2-if the CEL only gives steady consistent flashes in succession there are no stored fault codes.
3-IF AND ONLY IF you have a stored fault code you will receive 6 rapid flashes in succession....3 per second or so....then a 2 second pause...then the transmission of the fault code #. the # is transmitted and interpreted by a series of flashes indicating the first #.... a 2 second pause....then the series of flashes indicating the second #.
i will also tell you that your symptoms are strongly indicative of a faulty BAS assembly. that unit does NOT always dump a fault code into the ecm. but your symptoms say strong possibility
Before we get too deep, try the basics.
When you are cranking the bike with the starter, have you tried slightly opening the throttle while cranking? Doing that will add a little air and can lean out a slightly rich cranking condition.
Did more digging with it today and came to the conclusion that it is my fuel pump bad. I can spray choke cleaner in the throttle body and it runs great but as soon as i stop spraying it cuts off. I ordered a new fuel pump, strainer kit and fuel pressure regulator. Thanks for all of the help!
I hope that is your problem, these guys give repair info in ascending order of cost.
My problem,,07 xb12ss all stock.
Hey guys, you know what, I can't find a ground on the triple or anyplace else on the front. There is one on each side of the battery with two ground wires to each spot plus the battery ground to one side ?
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