Reply With Quoteyou mentioned the mighty midget......use your correspondence with cole and he'll guide you thru it. should be a box to check off in diagnostics section that has the ecm deactivating the IEV feature.Originally Posted by chaselantern
Hey guys. I just installed my Buell race exhaust!!! Wow what a difference. Thanks again AZmidget91 for the hard to find map!. Just wondering if anyone has disabled the exhaust valve using the buelltooth and ecm droid and how I would go about doing it?. I just want to lose the engine light. Thanks guys. Ride safe.
you mentioned the mighty midget......use your correspondence with cole and he'll guide you thru it. should be a box to check off in diagnostics section that has the ecm deactivating the IEV feature.
In ECMDroid click:
ECM Parameters/Exhaust config/uncheck ECM Valve enabled
So the valve is disabled but when I unplug the the servo it still gives me code 21and engine light. Any idea on how to be get rid of it.?
Are you supposed to unplug it, once it is disabled in the ECM ?
I hope so. I don't want the servo floating around..
Did you save the changes after you disabled it? I forgot to mention that part, I'm not looking at the app right now but it should be a button that says "burn" (I think). . If it is actually disabled the engine light will not come on when you unplug it.
Awesome thank you so much. I'll try that when I get home awesome. I'll try that when I get home.
Okay guys so I have done it all! Still when I unplug the servo the codes 21 both come up . Any ideas?
You can fix it back to stock for $60. The stock setup with a working exhaust valve is fantastic.
Web search for Dorman 911-912. This is a Ford intake tract valve controller. You can find them all over, by different manufacturers, for $50 - $60.
The construction of these is substantially stronger than the one the Buell came with. I've taken two apart so far and it's night and day. The part that fails is the strain relief / overshot gear that keeps the gear teeth from breaking or deforming when the cable reaches end of travel. OEM part is plastic. Replacements use stamped steel. The gear sections are much taller on the replacements too. Here's what the inside of one looks like:
You'll need to change out the arm where the cable connects to make it work on the Buell. Otherwise form factor is identical. Replacement uses a lever, Buell needs a bell crank.
Here's what the new one looks like:
Grind off the weld at the arm and it pops right off the shaft with a little persuasion. Do the same for the bell crank on the broken OEM unit.
Install the bell crank on the new controller and tack weld it. Orientation is important. You can either note the orientation by taking a picture before you remove the original or you can just make sure the flat part is parallel with the bottom edge as shown in the pic below. Some controllers have reference dots that show the home and fully extended positions as viewed through the cable hole. Once of the pics above has it.
You'll also need to make a cable hanger out of a scrap piece of metal and a file as shown above. Also not critical. Note the bent tab on this one to prevent it from rotating.
Next pic shows it installed in the airbox cover with cable and bracket installed.
Make sure it works when done:
http://www.greasygringo.com/temp/BuellEVA_05.mov
Mine's been working great for a year and a half now. The setup works great . . . but keeping that valve and cable moving freely is a bit of a pain. Check them every time you do your oil so save having to replaced the controller when the valve gets stuck.
Jason
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