is there any lubrication required when putting on the belt?
The belt will go on easy enough, getting the idler pulley bolted backup is where it gets tricky. The last thing you want to do is scratch or nick any part of the pulley wheel. Be careful, get creative with a non metal tool to assist. I just did this recently and it was tighter than a ....Originally Posted by MMARVINxb9
and it still is, after some miles I hear it will relax a little.
Last edited by midway; 03-30-2017 at 01:58 AM.
Hmmnn
When I changed my belt I just took the rear wheel off instead of the pulley because my pulley will not budge......if you do it this way just take the rear wheel off, slide the belt over the front sprocket, then put your wheel between the swingarm, slide belt over rear sprocket, line wheel up and slide in axle, tighten everything up. Done
Buddy that would have been so much easier
{quote}The belt will go on easy enough, getting the idler pulley bolted backup is where it gets tricky. The last thing you want to do is scratch or nick any part of the pulley wheel. Be careful, get creative with a non metal tool to assist. I just did this recently and it was tighter than a .... and it still is, after some miles I hear it will relax a little.{/quote}
How do you get the new belt on without removing the back wheel?
That would be that wonderful (swingarm brace) found on firebolt models. I'm curious now which procedure is offered in the SM. Leverage the tire against the inner swingarm like Simplymichaeljr or the idler pulley like i did.
Last edited by midway; 03-30-2017 at 01:32 PM.
CORRECTLY replacing and setting up a new belt should not be left to happen-stance or guess-work. it goes like this:
1-NO lubrication of any sorts
2-remove components as the manual states including the swingarm bridge. the bridge is the small lateral component on the belt side of the swingarm that is affixed with 4 allen head bolts. IMPORTANT: a drop or 2 of blue loctite should be placed on bolt threads during installation and the bolts MUST be torqued.
3-with rear of bike lifted several inches from ground and supported....place a piece of wood between tire and ground to support wheel
4-remove axle pinch bolt....axle....slide wheel slightly forward.....remove belt.....slide belt thru bridge opening....remove belt from front pulley. you are using this method to prevent sliding any surface of the belt across any sharp edges such as pulley sides or inside edges of swingarm. you do NOT want to nick, twist, or deface the belt in any way.
5. replacement is opposite procedure with these important steps:
a-hone the idler pulley bracket holes out slightly. removing 3/32nds of an inch from bottom of front hole and top of rear hole allows pulley to slightly rotate downwards and lessens the strain on the rear wheel bearings.
b-the belt MUST BE "run in" before hammering on the throttle. if not performed correctly it dramatically decreases belt life
Last edited by user_deleted; 03-30-2017 at 02:18 PM.
Ahhh! Never had a Firebolt...
For sure you need to have the weight off the rear swingarm, the slack will help tremendously.
Pretty much every post on this forum these days leads me to be believe NO ONE reads the service manual. Or does much research before going bonzi into the simplest maintenance procedures.
Yes the manual has some things that slightly contradict what has become common practice but this is where doing a little research helps out.
Anyway.... www.buellmods.com for a service manual.
Cooter you're exempt from this one since you own a 1125.
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