Next I'd do the propane check for air leaks.
So I got my adapter and did the tps reset on ecmdriod.
Now the bike runs even worse!!!
I have been looking around on here and people mention AFV being around 100. Mine is at 61.6%
Both pipes are getting warm.
Bike is stock
Next I'd do the propane check for air leaks.
Use ECMDroid to set the AFV at 100. It will run better. If it starts running worse again, I would check to see if your O2 sensor is old, lazy, or not reading right.
You can also limit the amount of correction to the AFV that is allowed. Change it to 90-120 and its a good cheat (NOT a fix)
That's way out of acceptable range... most likely bad O2 sensor. AFV works like this (under normal settings), 100 value is the "ideal" goal so start with it set to this, as you ride it has a "window" of acceptable adjustment -15 (85) to +15 (115) to account for altitude/ambient temps/riding hard or stuck in traffic etc... anything above or below these thresholds the bike really can't compensate for and you have a problem somewhere. Most all problems would give a lean condition like intake seals failing fuel filter etc. O2 false reading AFR is really the only reason the bike would pull fuel.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Actually I take that back, your TPS value could have been so far off the computer had to pull fuel because the fuel tables it was referencing in relation to the TPS value was off so far. Read Cooter/my reply below and report back after 50 or so miles where it lands.
Last edited by lowkey; 04-25-2017 at 05:54 PM.
As Cooter states, it is always wise to reset the AFV back to 100 after TPS/intake seals/fuel system or anything that caused the bike to need adjusting on fuel. Make a note of where it is at before changing it to 100 and check back after 50 or so miles to see where it adjusts itself to.
Thanks for the help guys, I set the AFV to 100 and it is still idles like crap and backfires. Riding down the road is almost perfect with an occasional backfire and pop. Coming to a stop if you don't keep slightly revving it the bike will die. Then when the bike is hot at idle the rpm will bounce from like 500 to 2000 and eventually stall. Getting closer....
I think someone already stated this BUT it sounds like you have an intake leak. AND until you fix that intake leak you'll never get a good TPS reset.
OR your fuel filter or pump could be causing issues.
Check for intake leak and report back your findings.
BTW you have checked that all your grounds, battery connections and wires(especially the flimsy little O2 wire) are in good order?
Checking all the electrical grounds connections and what not should be the first thing you do. Then check for an intake leak. If all that checks out I'd look into servicing/rebuilding the fuel pump.
Those are just my ideas.
Hope it helps.
Good luck
Oh and looking back at the beginning of this post, I would suspect that maybe something has gone a rye with the fuel level sensor repair you talked about completing prior to having any running issue.
Bike ran fine before you performed the repair so I would think something with the fuel pump wiring or filters is causing your problems.
Anyway, checking stuff prior to buying parts is time consuming but at least you'll know that you're not just throwing parts at it.
Process of elimination says it happened after working on the pump since he ran the bike for 15min without issues. New TPS was installed without a proper reset and bike was "bogging"... referencing the fuel/timing map cells to the wrong TPS values. His AFV is showing a super rich condition. Intake seals can only cause lean condition fueling issues can only cause lean condition unless higher PSI regulator was installed or injector is staying open/not closing all the way.
OP you didn't say where your AFV went after you reset it to 100 and rode it, this ride would need to be over 15min to start to take effect, can't judge it right after resetting it. Another option if it is still going rich is to go into ECMSpy on the last tab "ECM config" and turn off everything on the left side under label kConfig byte, also on the top left next to file tab click options then settings and uncheck Gego reference. In this state the bike will be running purely off the maps and cannot adjust for anything so be careful riding in this state if maps are to lean for the bike it can't adjust to compensate. Do a decent ride first with AFV 100 and everything on to see if it clears up first but if it doesn't you can try as above, if running better go get a new 02 sensor and turn all setting back on. Pro tip you can swap 02 if you remove the fan...
Hey guys
So it finally stopped raining long enough to take the bike for a ride.
I reset the AFV to 100% and put about 40 miles on it.
It still runs very strong under load and riding conditions but surges at idle and will stall occasionally. It also backfires coming to a stop and will stall if I don't keep the throttle cracked a little.
After riding AFV went up to 116% and the oxygen sensor was reading around .35V at idle with little change with throttle input.
I went out and bought a new bosch O2 sensor and put it in, reset AFV to 100% again and just rode 20 miles.
Came back and AFV is back at 112% and O2 values are staying very lean at .15-.25 at idle with the surging and backfiring.
I tested for intake leaks with propane with no obvious findings.
With my experience in the auto field it is hard for me to believe that it is a bad fuel pump or injector(which I already took out and verified proper spray pattern and not leaking down)
I think I may do intake seals for the hell of it and retest it. It doesn't look bad to do per the manual.
Any tips?
Thanks!