Reply With QuoteHere is a download for the manual as well.http://buellmods.com/#TabbedContent
EDIT: lunatic, what is the "bickering" you speak of?
i've posted this up several times before from memory and doing it again. it puts an end to bickering and can be printed out and placed in your document holder for that rare occasion where you're on the road....broke the drive belt....have access to correct tools...and really in a bind. i can't make it simpler than this:
1-remove front pulley cover---THREE #27 torx screws
2-remove rear axle pinch bolt---right side facing bottom of swingarm
3-remove swingarm bridge---right side upper cast aluminum assembly--4 hex cap bolts
4-remove idler pulley---2 nine-sixteenth inch hex nuts each with single large flat washer behind same
5-loosen axle 2 full turns
6-snug axle back up--just snug---nothing more
7-with ratchet assembly handle now @ 12 o'clock position---LOOSEN REAR AXLE PRECISELY 22 FULL TURNS COUNTER- CLOCKWISE
8-remove belt---work it thru bridge opening
installation is reverse....torque rear axle to 50 ft. lbs. of torque if torque wrench available
NOTE: on uly and stt models in particular you'll have to remove the right side drivers footpeg and guard...on some models you'll have to remove upper belt guard. you'll know if you have to when you find insufficient clearance to remove/install belt.
DO NOT EVER PINCH--BEND---CRIMP---NICK--OR SEVERELY TWIST THE DRIVE BELT!
A NEW BELT MUST BE CORRECTLY "RUN-IN' SO THAT THE TEETH PROPERLY MATE TO THE SPROCKET NOTCHES WHICH ALSO PROMOTES LONGEVITY.
Last edited by user_deleted; 05-13-2017 at 12:20 AM.
Here is a download for the manual as well.
EDIT: lunatic, what is the "bickering" you speak of?
Last edited by lowkey; 05-13-2017 at 12:26 AM.
You found a Harley tech who actually knows Buells? You have found a unicorn! Please make sure you demonstrate appreciation towards this guy, as they are very few and far between.Originally Posted by rokdog13
I don't think Lowkey has earned his "Internet forum motorcycle mechanic free advice certification" yet (kidding - lowkey).
However, between him and AZMidget we may have all of our ECM tuning needs handled. I know I owe both of them at least a beer and a huge amount of appreciation.
Crazy stuff, and I REALLY want to understand why all the Buell owners description of how to replace the belt is so drastically different than what I experienced and how the certified techs description of how to do it was what worked.
I pulled the rear axle COMPLETELY,
reinstalled the idler pulley
coated axle with never seize and set it aside. (per techs advice)
pushed rear wheel forward in swing arm and installed belt.
slid rear axle into swingarm.
Took a piece of wood and placed it at the end of the swing arm
slid a pry bar into rear sprocket.
Started to pry rear wheel rearward so I could slide axle into wheel.
Almost knocked bike off jackstands.
Began sweating profusely and cursing about non adjustable drive belts.
Fiddled with axle while applying pressure with pry bar and holding bike up with elbow.
Getting never seize all over hands, bike, floor and shoes.
FINALLY got rear wheel back far enough to slide axle into place.
Jumped with joy and almost knocked bike over, again..
Ran axle all the way in.
Went to other side of bike to install rear brake caliper.
Found washer laying on floor that was obviously a spacer.
Pulled axle back out to re-install said washer and repeated whole procedure again.
With a bit less cussing and sweating.
The difference between the online descriptions and what I saw before me, what I had to do to get the belt on
really have me flummoxed.
I half expected the belt to snap again with the crazy amount of tension that is on it.
But, I've seen a few comments about them being so tight.
And both techs told me that it was completely normal.
I took it for a short test ride.
Everything ok.
Appreciate the torque specs, I'll go back over the axle tonight to make sure Its at spec.
Last edited by rokdog13; 05-14-2017 at 12:20 AM.
You forgot the beer.
well, if any of you live in my area I'll buy the first one!
I threatened to ride 13 hours to get a free beer out of cooter! Where ya at? Lol
Thats fine, I've infrequently been here since 2012, so there is probably a lot of threads you've missed along the way. I take a "time is money" approach to any wrenching job and my procedures will reflect that.
No such spacer exists between wheel/swing arm. Only a spacer that sits between bearings inside of the wheel. If you have a spacer outside of the bearing that sits on the axle something isn't right...
^^^^^^^^^True dat!
2010 models do have a spacer between the wheel and swing arm on the caliper side. Part # is G0620.5AK
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