Front brake dragging bad!

[hoops2005]

Hey, I swapped a buell xb rim , rotor, and caliper on to my cruiser. Everything worked great until I bleed the brake, when I tried to rotate the wheel the pads just rub consistently and if the wheel is off the ground it only spins about 1/4 turn. I thought it was because the caliper wasnt perfectly in the center, so I fixed that part. still the same. Only reason why i found out was took it around the block and when I came home touch the rotor and it was hot as hell.

Took the caliper off, pads are pretty worn (ordering new ones) but that still shouldnt cause this. Sprayed caliper with brake cleaner and while off the bike rebleed and put a piece of piece of metal in the middle and same thing happened when off the bike, when the brake is released the pads are super tight and could barely get the metal out. Any ideas? I am using my cruiser brake line and brake reservoir and not sure if that matters, the brake line is rubber.

[user_deleted]

you have 1 or more of the below deficiencies that need to be addressed. i don't care what year XB parts you swapped onto what year non-descript "cruiser".....irrelevant.....your problem is the result of the following:
1-mis-matched master cylinder brake lever which is NOT allowing the master cylinder piston to return to FULL OUT POSITION when the lever is released. very common problem when swapping parts around
2-faulty master cylinder return bleed hole. it is the series of 1 or more tiny "weep" holes in bottom of reservoir that allow fluid pressure to be bled off when lever released. if that hole is blocked or clogged from corrosion or debris you will NOT have pressure relieved when lever is released.
3-master cylinder mis-matched to brake caliper. you'll have to determine this on your own.
4- brake pads installed either incorrectly OR too "thick" for the given application.
5-collapsed brake hose.....NOT brake line.....brake hose. a collapsed hose or an old worn deteriorated hose will allow pressure to be generated but NOT released.
6-caliper with corroded/defective/non-serviceable bore or bores if a multi-piston style caliper. can only be determined when dismantling the caliper and inspecting same.

NOTE: all of the above is dependent on the actual master cylinder being in good working order. if the bore and internal guts of the actual master cylinder are faulty/corroded/worn you'll have to address same and then work thru the items #1 thru #6 above.

[hoops2005]

Thank you for the info. I switched out the master cylinder for the buell one and the stock buell line. The brake level was much firmer, however, the brakes still do not release. I checked the weep hole and it isnt clog, when i pressed the caliper cylinders in, fluid easier was push back through it. I do have an aftermarket brake lever, what exactly is the common problem with them? The level becomes fully disengages when it is released after braking.

[AZmidget91]

How is the caliper mounted? Did you use Buell forks? If you have some home made brackets holding it on, it may not be straight, or inline.

[user_deleted]

Thank you for the info. I switched out the master cylinder for the buell one and the stock buell line. The brake level was much firmer, however, the brakes still do not release. I checked the weep hole and it isnt clog, when i pressed the caliper cylinders in, fluid easier was push back through it. I do have an aftermarket brake lever, what exactly is the common problem with them? The level becomes fully disengages when it is released after braking.

you need to double check all your work as i previously mentioned. again....determine if the master cylinder plunger is smoothly working in its bore.......and that all the caliper pistons are smoothly working in their bores. just one caliper piston sticking in its bore will cause your problems. your aftermarket lever??? when it is fully released you need approx. .025 or more of clearance between the tip of the m/cyl plunger and the portion of the lever that engages the tip. extremely important! start there and check.

[hoops2005]

you need to double check all your work as i previously mentioned. again....determine if the master cylinder plunger is smoothly working in its bore.......and that all the caliper pistons are smoothly working in their bores. just one caliper piston sticking in its bore will cause your problems. your aftermarket lever??? when it is fully released you need approx. .025 or more of clearance between the tip of the m/cyl plunger and the portion of the lever that engages the tip. extremely important! start there and check.

I had to file a little off the aftermarket lever to get that clearance but it still worked fine. A couple pistons in the caliper seemed very hard to press in (compared to the others) and take a very long time to extend out. Do they still sell rebuild kits for the ztl2? Never messed with brakes other than bleed a fewi so this is something new to me.