Rear Shock Service/Re-build

[Chicknstripn]

No- your shock should not settle down and cause a height change. If it does I would take it back to the company the rebuilt it!
Does your rebuilt shock have a preload adjuster? I know that a stock shock does and the tool to adjust the preload is found in your tool kit. Take some preload out of the rear shock. You should be able to lower your rear ride height that way. Then go for a test ride. Insure you record where you started so if you don't like it you can always go back.

Correction- just saw that a previous post stated that you have your rear preload at zero.

I guess you have adjusted that. Do you like the ride quality?

Has this changed from a matter of ride quality to an issue over ride height?

[Tbone]

It has a Hydraulic pre-load adjuster knob that is turned all the way out, counter clockwise.
More Quality than height, I think the height maybe effecting the cornering quality? She is trying to stand up in the corners and I am forcing the bars down to make the corner. Like it is out of balance or something causing it resist as before it was effortless to dive into the corner? So I think when it had a saggy a$$ it was more centered, between the front and rear wheels. Now it feels like the front end requires more of a turn in and fight to keep it cornering at the bars?

[Cooter]

Oh! This is a ULY! hahahahahaha. I think both Chicken and I didn't see the forum (I just do 'new posts' typically) and thought it was the ring you turn with a spanner. In fact its a hydraulic sleeve that extends....

Double check that thing is on the shock right side up and i think it sits on locating points, so it might be rotated wrong and hung up on those? Lemme look for a exploded view

And look at your front tire really objectivly. When they square up they handle exactly what you're describing and you ride hard enough to do that to a front tire

In fact, if the rear is indeed higher than the front it should quicken the turn in (less rake) not make it harder.

[Chicknstripn]

Sorry, I didn't notice this was a uly thread. I'm such a FNG!
Either way, if your preload is all the way out on the shock and near zero on the front fork, the issue might be what Cooter mentioned with the tires.
You're rear suspension was shot all this time so you probably didn't notice the way the front tire was effecting the performance. Check your tire pressure as well

[Cooter]

I can't get the pic to post here I went to twin motorcycles and looked up the exploded view of the Uly rear shock. I can't really see clearly how the hydraulic pre-load adjuster locates on the shock body. If my beer soaked memory serves, it slides on before the coil (of course) but i think it has tabs it locates on to clock it right on the body, not just a ring to hold it.

I'm thinking it may be clocked wrong (or upside down?) and sitting on those tabs instead of being seated all the way. If thats true then it would be pre-loading the coil quite a bit even with the adjustment at zero.

Look at where the pre-load adjuster is in relation the the shock body and google image Uly shock to see if its the same. A little difference at the shock will make a BIG difference at the rear wheel.

[Tbone]

Yes it is a Uly. I will have to remove the rear shock, dang!, I just installed a comfort kit fan shroud, PITA to remove rear shock now. Will be worth it if it gets to the bottom of the issue?
On July 3 on this thread I put a picture of the shock tore down, I can see in the picture where the lock ring on the body is located below the nipple for the reservoir. Not apparent there are tabs or any clocking there, or on the top of the pre-loader, which is were the small hydraulic line is looks pretty smooth, no notches for any tabs. I remember that Keith who rebuilt the shock says he also replaced the main piston rod seal and bushing assembly with an All Balls Seal bushing assembly. Since this goes on the piston rod which is underneath the piston, is it possible it could have have been shorter than the stock assembly, allowing more travel for the piston to go down the cylinder and creating more height?
Found this on Ebay, 15mm spring plate, do you thing this would allow enough sag to lower the height an inch?
If the shock has increased length, this plate would only have an effect of lowering the pre-load beyond what it is now only, not restrict shock travel is what I am thinking?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TECNIUM-Lowe...JZV~Jw&vxp=mtr

[Cooter]

If that all balls bushing assy was shorter you 'might' get a little more travel, but it wouldn't affect the ride height.

$150 for that piece of billet!?! If you need that piece, there's something wrong with the shock. Fixing it would be preferable. I would think getting the shock back (or riding the Uly) to the shock guys if they're close enough would be easier.

[Tbone]

Few Parts of the shock are not stock anymore i.e. piston, bushings, bladder, seals, etc... I was going to remove the shock, bring it back to the guy who rebuilt it and have him check out the assembly of the pre-loader and spring, and if it is all good put the 15 mm plate in. I think this plate will not change the length or travel of the shock at all and any extra travel might be good thing to have? I think it will only give the spring 15mm more sag, which I am hoping will lower the ride height under my weight at least 1 inch and no more than 2. Yes this plate is $134 plus $30 shipping from France, all the one's I can find are from Europe and some are 20 to 25 MM which I think will create too much sag, since I will need to be able ride 2 up as well. Are there other options for suppliers for this part, I could only find VTwinmotorcycles and Tecniun that even carried such a part as a plate or ring? Hyper pro and other's kits basically include shorter springs and cost even more. So I think this maybe the most inexpensive solution if there are no issues with the shock?

[Chicknstripn]

I would call the guy that did the rebuild and ask him if there's a solution for shortening/lowering your ride height while maintaining preload adjustability.
I would do this before ordering parts.
Also, before ordering such an expensive part, if that's your only option, I'd inquire with a few machine shops if they can make the part for cheaper price.
My 2cents

[Silverrider]

shockdrill4.jpg

I would ghetto lower it before I would spend $150. for .59 " IMO.