XB12S stalls only at idle, runs great

[screwy]

Hey guys!

Got my first Buell XB12R, 2007.
Coming from a FJR 1300, that is almost twice as long, the ride needs getting used to
But i like it, the bike has got soul!

I have one small problem.
When the bike gets warm (not yet in operating temperature, just warm, but does this when is hot also) it tends to stall at idle.
Runs for about 30 sec and dies. Stat it up again, runs for 30 sec and dies again.
But runs great, no misfire.

Changed the spark plugs, and it got worse, started misfiring when riding.
Changed back to the old ones (NGK DCPR9E).

Now only stall at idle. Plugs ar black - mixture too rich.
What could be the problem?

Checked all the grounds, charged the battery, changed the fuel.

Don`t have the cable for ECMSPY yet, order it this week.

[user_deleted]

you have a multitude of problems and a multitude of possible culprits and fixes as per below. blackened sooty looking plugs can be caused by loss of combustion, overly rich EFI fuel mapping by someone who formerly dicked with your onboard computer known as the ecm, excess oil entering the combustion process, faulty plug wires, dirty air filter, faulty O2 sensor. your bike is 12-plus years old. if the plug wires are the originals they need to be replaced as many times they fail directly following being disturbed during a plug replacement procedure. start with the following:
1-started misfiring after plug replacement? a faulty plug----plugs gapped incorrectly----faulty plug wire.
2-TB-to-airbox base plate air horn incorrectly installed.
3-TPS assembly needs reset by someone who knows what they're doing along with cold and warm curb idle set to specs.
4-even with stock ecm mapping the XB models are mapped fairly "rich" on cold start open-loop mode. repeated cold starting and NOT running bike up to operating temps will always foul plugs.
5-check or have a pro check your intake manifold seals. faulty ones cause all types of rideability issues including erratic idling both cold and warm.

6-follow link below and check for historical fault codes. guaranteed you have 1 or more stored codes.
fouled plugs and erratic idling typically NOT related to a ground issue. check your work and report back.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buel...77/146574.html

[Cooter]

Lunatic has all the bases covered. If you take his advise you'll be ok. Double check 2,3, and 4.

I would strongly suggest against the knee-jerk reaction to jumping into ECMspy tuning without any reason or the next thread you post will be "HELP! Need tuning help!" ECM's won't just change your tuning by themselves. There is a problem somewhere you need to find, and we'll help you.

I would suggest you look into fixing it, then if you need to...look into tuning it.

Check OUT ECMDroid. it is free and pretty foolproof to help you diagnose the problem and even load different fuel maps in the future if you decide to go that route. You can find a manual at Buellmods.com and you can find ECMDroid and info at Buelltooth.com.

[njloco]

I'm curious, being old and not computer savvy, why is it that most newb's don't post where they're from ? Do they think we are less likely to try and help them because they are from, like Brooklyn ? Oh, wait a minute, that's where I'm originally from, o.k. let's say Chicago? No, that's no good either, how about Arkansas ?
Reason I ask is, their might be a good Buelly wrench living right next to you that, we could recommend !

[screwy]

Thanks for all the info! Im from Latvia, Riga by the way, very far away from Kanzas i think there are not more than 10 Buells in my country, so the only help i can get is from HD guys. I am going to buy the wire to check the fault codes and for the TPS reset, will not be playing with fuel maps. The Buell is fairly simple, then other bikes i have had, so i think i can do everything on my own. Will read the manual carefully also. One time the bike was running at idle, wanted to stall, but the the engine light came on, and raised the idle and did not stall anymore. Looked like it went from open loop to closed loop. In the closed loop, the engine does not use the O2 senor? Or something other?

[screwy]

1. The stalling on idle started after plug change.
2. Air base is ok, checked it, correctly mounted.

3. Will do when i get the cable.
4. Looks like they are rich. Is it possible to make them leaner on idle?
5. Intake seals are ok, sprayed carb cleaner everywhere and no rpm increase.
6. Will check that.

Thanks for all the tips.
I think the spark plug wires could be bad, or the O2 sensor is acting up.
i have a K&N air filer installed, but eith the stock muffler, just the valve in the exhaust has been removed. Because the cable is not attached and the exhaust is loder than stock, probably the internals have been modified.

[njloco]

Someone else will chime in but, I think once the exhaust valve is disabled, you might need a different tune, not totally sure about this. You definitely need to do a TPS reset !

Yeah, I guess it would be difficult to send you a good reference on a local wrench.

Welcome to the forum.

[Cooter]

Oh Latvia! Awesome! Say "Hi" to Jolanta for me.


The bike is supposed to idle between 1050-1150 RPM but people try to lower it with the screw (wrong way to do it) for a more potato-potato-potato Harly-ish sound. Maybe it's just idling too low?

[screwy]

Unfortunately i don`t know any biker girl named Jolanta. Is she a BUELL owner?

Maybe the idle is too low, could be one of the reasons, but the idle screw is stuck, it will not turn. Probably need to order a new cable.
Will check what fault codes are present and then it will be a little bit clearer.

[Chicknstripn]

Make sure you are not blipping the throttle on a cold engine in order to keep the bike running at start up. Giving the bike throttle while the engine is cold, especially on initial start up, will foul the plugs.
I think you need to perform a TPS reset, after installing good plugs, and set your idle as close to 950-1150 rpms. I usually set mine as close to 1150 as I can.
If you believe your idle adjustment cable isn't working I would inspect the area near on throttle body that the cable connects to. Spray some WD40 PB Blast or whatever liquor wrench type lube you have in that area. Also insure you're using a good Allen socket or wrench to turn idle adjustment screw. I've never had much success trying to turn the adjustment screw by hand.
Good luck