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Thread: First ever 'issue' with the bike - would love some electrical help (lights fuse)

  1. #51
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    I'll take a picture when I get the bike back...

    It's a small - two wire 'slide in' plug right at the clutch lever (underneath it) - directly beside left switch gear housing (inboard of it). Apparently its purpose is to keep the bike from starting if it is in gear and the clutch lever is not pulled. Kind of a bear to get to (as far as it's placement - right underneath clutch cable and switch gear housing cable bundle).

    As an extra bonus, I was able to cancel the parts order I was having shipped to Kevin for what I thought was the issue. That was fortunate :-)

  2. #52
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    Loosen the allen bolts and rotate the clutch perch for easy access to the screw that holds that switch. If that is circuit with the actual problem, I'd check the wiring really well. Can't even imagine how the switch could short to ground. Its plastic.

  3. #53
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    Yeah - I'm going to let Kevin take care of it that way. We're going to terminate the wires, and neatly zip tie them away as well...as I don't want that safety in the circuit at all. Just something else to fail and really (just my opinion) shouldn't be needed for a bike the caliber of an XB.

    I can understand the safeties on my Blast (which most of us Blast-folks defeat anyway by swapping a fuse around, etc.). A bike really leveraged as a training/beginner bike probably needs a few safeties (kick stand, clutch, etc.).

  4. #54
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vicenzajay View Post
    I'll take a picture when I get the bike back...

    It's a small - two wire 'slide in' plug right at the clutch lever (underneath it) - directly beside left switch gear housing (inboard of it). Apparently its purpose is to keep the bike from starting if it is in gear and the clutch lever is not pulled. Kind of a bear to get to (as far as it's placement - right underneath clutch cable and switch gear housing cable bundle).

    As an extra bonus, I was able to cancel the parts order I was having shipped to Kevin for what I thought was the issue. That was fortunate :-)
    you're referring to the clutch interlock switch. still no idea what a "left gear housing" is. the switch is a plain nippon-denso button switch. it's the simplest of "circuit interrupter" switches ever installed on a cycle as is the side-stand switch. it cannot short-to-ground causing a 15 amp fuse to blow. impossible! you have something else going on there.
    Last edited by lunaticfringe; 12-09-2017 at 06:17 AM.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by lunaticfringe View Post
    you're referring to the clutch interlock switch. still no idea what a "left gear housing" is. the switch is a plain nippon-denso button switch. it's the simplest of "circuit interrupter" switches ever installed on a cycle as is the side-stand switch. it cannot short-to-ground causing a 15 amp fuse to blow. impossible! you have something else going on there.
    Hey John - always appreciate your wisdom.

    So, first - obviously (at 10 p.m. Thursday night after 6 hours in the car, loading, unloading, etc.) I forgot to type the word "switch" and typed "gear" instead. I've seen it called a "switch gear housing" any number of times on the forum and elsewhere - so I was tired and trying to convey what we found.

    To your point here. Of course, this is obviously the case (i.e. there's a short somewhere in the wiring that feeds or returns from the interlock switch). I'm not the electrician, so I can't say anything other than when it's unplugged, the bike runs perfectly. When it's plugged in, the lights fuse pops. We can duplicate and reduplicate the problem and its mitigation at will.

    There is one person I would trust with tearing into the wiring harness and trying to find the point at which the wires feeding that tiny switch are 'messed up' - namely you. Understandably (with the amazing demands on your schedule and talents) you are unable to do that for some time - i.e. well into next year. Anyone else, especially the Harley dealership here, WILL create many more problems instead of just fixing the wiring issue - all for the price of several hundred (or a thousand) dollars.

    After more than 20 years flying jet aircraft for the Navy, to include 15 months of my department head tour as the Maintenance Officer of the squadron, I am acutely aware of the fact that the ONE thing that inexorably kills vehicles (air or ground) is non-use. Airplanes that fly often, are 'up' airplanes for the flight schedule. Regardless of my own desire to ride, etc., my main motivation in this case is to not have the bike sit for 6+ months. Given that there seems to be a relatively innocuous fix that allows the bike to run normally (albeit without a clutch interlock safety - which I hope by now I don't need), removing it from the circuit seems to be the best solution for now - until I have the honor of being able to to bring the bike to you and we can sort out the root problem.

    Is that fair?
    Last edited by vicenzajay; 12-09-2017 at 03:17 PM.

  6. #56
    Senior Member Cooter's Avatar
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    He's just saying it's an odd problem.

  7. #57
    Senior Member lunaticfringe's Avatar
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    jay: i understand and appreciate the kind words. whoever is wrenching on your bike tell them the below. it's the simple test to find the source of this short-to-ground since disconnecting the clutch lever interlock switch resulted in a positive result. tell him to do this if he hasn't already:
    1-remove the 2 wires from the clutch lever switch. jump those 2 wires with simple jumper wire.
    2-if he removed the lights fuse and start relay replace them. make sure battery is fully charged. now try to start it. fuse ok? replace the switch.
    3-fuse still pops? follow the wiring looms down from the right side and left side switch gear to the steering neck assembly and check for rubbing or chafing. that's where the problem lies. it's a simple ground-to-short situation.
    4-switch part # is 68645-96Y infinite amount in system as of today and cost is cheap.
    5-one more test of the switch to verify its operating as intended is to start the bike....get heat in the motor....let it settle to warm curb speed idle. on 2008 and later XB's with switch mounted correctly and both wires connected you simply pull in the clutch lever which bumps up the curb idle speed approx. 200 rpm. that confirms the switch is good.
    Last edited by lunaticfringe; 12-10-2017 at 01:33 PM.

  8. #58
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    Thanks, John.

    Will do - the person with the bike is Kevin Drum (Drummer mufflers)...I'll pass this along.

    At some point next year, I can still see this bike coming your way when you have time

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