Reply With QuoteThank you.
That said - isn't this the starter that Cooter and Teabag discussed a year or so ago? The one that didn't have the correct seal isolating the primary oil from the starter motor?
Contact them for fitment, better price.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-STARTER...STER-ROADSTER-BUELL-BLACK-1-4KW-31390-91/322539448066?hash=item4b18d96702:g:kKEAAOSwi8xaAo-Z&vxp=mtr
https://www.amazon.com/STARTER-1981-...1.4KW+31390-91
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-STARTER...STER-ROADSTER-[B]BUELL[/B]-BLACK-1-0KW-1980-2012/140817611877?hash=item20c9623c65:g:qYsAAOSw8b1aExb D&vxp=mtr
Last edited by Silverrider; 12-04-2017 at 11:29 PM.
Thank you.
That said - isn't this the starter that Cooter and Teabag discussed a year or so ago? The one that didn't have the correct seal isolating the primary oil from the starter motor?
I have no Idea ?? Only Cooter will know.
Last edited by Silverrider; 12-05-2017 at 12:25 AM.
Be careful buying new starter. Some of them may not have clutch bearing to housing seal and will leak like hell. I had bad experience with leaking starter I bought on Amazon to replace original Buell starter with bad clutch. I ended up buying new allballs clutch and installed it in the original Buell starter. Also Buell starter clutch has output shaft seal, allballs clutch does not have output shaft seal, but my original starter does not leak with this clutch at all.Originally Posted by vicenzajay
Here is the thread with details.
http://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthr...arter-problems
Last edited by TPEHAK; 12-05-2017 at 12:20 AM.
So you're recommending I just buy the clutch and rebuild the old starter?
Lord.... No. Don't buy a starter yet. You don't even know if you need one.
The problem that TPEHAK and I had was with the brand "Rare Electric". The seal in the nose cone wasn't right and would leak primary oil through the starter when ridden hard. My fix was similar to his by replacing the starter clutch assy (I used OEM) inside the nosecone of the starter.
If you are unsure of jumping the two big solenoid terminals together to test the starter, try this:
Use at least a 8 gauge wire and go from the one and only terminal on the starter (you can see it in those pics) to the battery (+)...
And check that stock wire from the starter to the solenoid for fraying or touching metal (it would totally cause this issue as well).
You're so close Vincenzajay! don't give up yet!
You don't need to replace starter clutch if it is OK. Bad clutch makes winding sound slipping on the output shaft, I believe you have another symptoms and another problem. I'm just saying that you have a risk to buy bad starter. I would contact with seller and ask if the starter they sell has o-ring seal around clutch bearing and seal on the clutch output shaft. And before stick the new starter in the place I would take the starter front cover off and check if the clutch actually has those seals, if not just return it back because it will leak.
If you think you have problem with starter you can test it first https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...o+test+starter
Slipping clutch symptoms
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K43XsZfh15k
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1DMsk3CdGTw
Last edited by TPEHAK; 12-05-2017 at 02:32 AM.
Bad ground symptoms
Okay - copy what the "terminal" is....if I were jumping it with a screwdriver it would be from the green wire to that terminal, correct?
I'm tracking that the other way would be the larger gauge wire from battery positive direct to terminal....
Okay - here's the bigger question. Talking to Kevin Drum, who's been absolutely awesome through this, if we have to work on the solenoid, we'll need to take the whole unit off anyway. If that's the case, then why not replace the whole thing? I'm trying to avoid *ever* having to mess with this problem again.
Or is there a way to 'fix' the solenoid without the whole starter unit uninstall/reinstall?
no idea where this thread is headed but here's what you need to know:
1-the entire starter assembly interchanges with 96-2005 chrysler mini-van starter assemblies. most are mitsubishi brand.
2-you don't need to replace the entire assembly. dealer list is $369 last i checked. ebay ones typically 1/4th that price and chinese garbage units.
2-the starter assembly consists of 3 components: the starter case and drive motor....the clutch drive hub....the solenoid.
3-DO NOT run the starter motor with the primary cover removed as in the one vid posted on this thread.
4-remove starter motor and simply replace the solenoid. this popped fuse you've been chasing? told you the simple test and you've performed same. that test shows a shorted solenoid. factory part # 31603-91 STARTER SOLENOID REPAIR KIT still over 7500 in dealer system last i checked. simply remove and replace. the solenoid activates the starter assembly. it is the big gizmo mounted atop the starter assembly and attach with 2 very long screws.
5-an XB starter assembly virtually identical to H-D sporster repair and replace procedure and is very challenging for a novice. here's the schematic.
5820_20100806150009_L.jpg
Last edited by user_deleted; 12-05-2017 at 11:41 AM.
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