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Thread: 13/16 size plugs?!

  1. #1
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    13/16 size plugs?!

    I got ready to replace my fouled plugs with DPR9-EIX 9, which are 5/8 wrench size. Most stuff I've read here and in the YouTube tutorial suggests plugs are 5/8... But damned if the ones in there (dpr9ea) aren't 13/16?!?

    I can't get the front plug out because i can't find a short enough swivel combo and I don't have a 13/16 wrench.

    Anyone ever run into this?

  2. #2
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    update: found my u-joints and the front plug is not 13/16, it's 18mm, for which i have a box end wrench.
    update to the update: oh heck yes these plugs are fouled

  3. #3
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    it's blurry, but also clear these are smoked. haven't got to the back plug yet, but hoping it's not an 18mm, because i have no 18mm plug socket
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
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    all PR series NGK plugs have a 5/8th inch standard hex shell. if this is your first time changing XB plugs tread lightly and use caution. do as you please but i'm telling you this right up front to make your life easier:
    1-remove both the front air intake scoop and entire airbox assembly including base plate. why? takes a total of 20 minutes to do both assemblies and saves hours of frustration, swearing, lost tools, damaged plugs and so much more. if you have a 2008-10 XB you'll need to carefully squeeze the titties together of the wiring harness clip that's secured to the front scoop to remove it. 2003-07 models do NOT have that clip. makes removing the front scoop much easier.
    2-all airbox #27 torx screws(4 total) installed at factory with "light red" loctite. be damn careful when removing them or you'll strip the heads out which is a nightmare. use downward pressure and a quality 1/4" or 3/8th inch torx driver.
    3-when completing step #1 above an ancillary benefit is that you now can easily check your coil for cracks...your dog-bone ground strap for continuity...and most importantly your plug wires.
    4-use caution gapping iridium plugs. i've posted on here ad nauseum as to why.
    5-start both plugs by hand after placing a tiny dab of anti-seize on the threads of each. YES I KNOW....NGK says not necessary on their iridium plugs but i do it anyway so should you.
    Last edited by user_deleted; 12-11-2017 at 12:49 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by lunaticfringe View Post
    all PR series NGK plugs have a 5/8th inch standard hex shell.
    i fixed my OP. These were DP9 not DPR9.
    Quote Originally Posted by lunaticfringe View Post
    if this is your first time changing XB plugs tread lightly and use caution. do as you please but i'm telling you this right up front to make your life easier:
    1-remove both the front air intake scoop and entire airbox assembly including base plate. why? takes a total of 20 minutes to do both assemblies and saves hours of frustration, swearing, lost tools, damaged plugs and so much more. if you have a 2008-10 XB you'll need to carefully squeeze the titties together of the wiring harness clip that's secured to the front scoop to remove it. 2003-07 models do NOT have that clip. makes removing the front scoop much easier.
    2006 XB here. airbox came off in a flash (the PO had not correctly got the rubber velocity stack lip in place, which made it easier). No sensor in scoop. No loctite on any fasteners that I could see, but they will be getting some when they go back on because of vibration etc. I discovered it has a K&N and that the PO did a pretty primitive breather mod -- just Teed the lines together to a breather filter sitting above the rear wheel, screened off by the fender. I will probably add a can and relocate because the idea of oiling my wheel in any way does not appeal

    Quote Originally Posted by lunaticfringe View Post
    3-when completing step #1 above an ancillary benefit is that you now can easily check your coil for cracks...your dog-bone ground strap for continuity...and most importantly your plug wires.
    What am i looking at on the coil, plug wires or dogbone strap? The strap is there and seems to have integrity, have not used a multimeter on it...

    Do you suggest i pull the coil pak off to inspect? I'm only here because it fouled plugs and won't start, but it ran fine before (I revved it cold and that is a big no no from what i read and I'm blaming that for killing the plugs)

    Quote Originally Posted by lunaticfringe View Post
    4-use caution gapping iridium plugs. i've posted on here ad nauseum as to why.
    They gap out right on spec out of the box. Bought 4 so i'd have two spares

    I have not done the back plug yet because I need the right socket for the job (apparently) and I'm most worried about cross threading that plug. I have used the "hose as a tool to start plugs" before so I'm not too-too stressed, but it's really hidden away in there...

  6. #6
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    1-if the plugs out of the box are within a few thousandths of spec they'll be fine. a tiny dab of anti-seize on the threads helps immensely with installation and later removal.
    2-while in there remove both bolts for the rear braided wire ground at the dog-bone. clean both ends and grounding points and reinstall. it IS the major grounding point for the entire electrical system.
    3-check the plug wires and coil closely. if wires suspect simply replace with stock pair or use the ends and build your own set. when checking the coil simply use the ohms specs in the service manual as easy fast check. also check for any leaking oil from it or tiny hair-line cracks. if you see any cracks or oil replace it. it's junk.
    4-use a 3/8th drive spark plug socket to install rear plug. dedicated spark plug socket has foam sock on the inside to hold the plug. place your swivel on end of socket and long single extension. USE 3/8th drive ONLY! gently hand-start the rear plug as that method prevents cross threading. then tighten fully once you feel the plug washer crushing down onto the cylinder head base.
    5-hand install the front plug. no special tools required other than simple 5/8th inch box wrench. that's all that's needed

  7. #7
    Senior Member GregoXB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sinikl View Post
    i fixed my OP. These were DP9 not DPR9.
    That's one reason why I run OEM Harley plugs... It's harder to screw it up lol

  8. #8
    Senior Member neilrl79's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sinikl View Post
    ...PO did a pretty primitive breather mod -- just Teed the lines together to a breather filter sitting above the rear wheel, screened off by the fender. I will probably add a can and relocate because the idea of oiling my wheel in any way does not appeal
    Let me offer you an alternative to adding a catch can:

    Keep the T fitting the the previous owner installed get a good piece of 3/8 fuel line that is a few feet long and connect to the T fitting and then snake that down behind the left footpeg bracket.
    After that you call it a job well done and move on.

    The only thing coming out of the hose is vapor so no need to worry about oiling your rear tire with an open hose. Catch can and breather filter setups cause the oily watery mess by pulling moisture out of the air and trapping it allowing it to condensate. The more humid the air is the more of that **** you'll have to empty out.



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