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Thread: HID recommendation for the CR

  1. #1
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    I want to convert the low beam to HID. Any of you do the research on this? I know theres a good thread dealing with another model and the guy who posted it has it together. But I'm like anyone else, I need a plug and play set up model specific with pictures. I think for one thing hiding the wiring and ballast will be easy, right behind the flyscreen.

  2. #2
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    DDMtuning.com would be a good place to purchase from. I would get a 55w 5000k or 6000k kit.

  3. #3
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    I second DDM! Great value and service. Make sure you get the slim 55watt kit. I just purchased a 2 sets of Raptor 55watts for a Goldwing Trike... They look great but the ballests were the full sized ones.
    I have the 35 watt raptors on my lightning and they are slim ballests

  4. #4
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    I have a slim 55w set from DDM

  5. #5
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    hey for those of you that have the 55W hid's in the lightning, have you had any problems?? over heating, melting anything??

  6. #6
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    The lamp assembly is fairly large in the CRs, I'm going with a 55w kit from DDM soon. I had a 35W kit in my Firebolt, but not so sure about the smaller incandescent Lightning headlights with a 55W HID kit.

    Not sure which color to get ... probably 8000K or 10000K since the extra wattage washes out some of the color (55w 8000K will look like a 35W 5000K or something like that). The headlight assemblies are vented and get plenty of air so I think they'll be fine.

    Obviously getting slim ballasts (that's the norm nowadays anyway), but anybody got any pitures of a CR install. Enough room under the fairing/behing the gauge cluster for the ballast, or will they have to be remotely mounted under-seat or under-pillion?

  7. #7
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    55w 8000K will look like a 35W 5000K or something like that
    I have a 55w 6000k and it looks like 6000k

    Kelvin is a measurement of color temperature. Luminance doesn't effect color temperature. Luminance will effect color intensity however. After I got the 6000k, I wished that I had got the 5000k because it was too blue for me. I'd rather have lumens vs color.

  8. #8
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    We need a picture tutorial of an install on a CR only.

  9. #9
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    I had the fairing off (as well os the right side pod to check my coolant level b/c that sight glass is useless) and it looks plausible.

    I'd estimate the area to be about two fists ... a dual HID setup will be tough, but a low beam only HID set up looks perfectly fine.

    How I see it, there are three ways to go about it:

    1.) All electronics (ballast, ignitor, relay) under the fairing. For a dual HID setup, double the equipment. That means only one wire from the battery to the relays (daisy chain relays). Space is the main issue (the only other thing that's under there are factory wiring harnesses that can be pushed and manipulated out of the way). Obviously the #1 choice for a reason: everything's neat and tidy in the same place.

    2.) Hybrid: ballast/ignitor under the fairing, relay back by the battery. This means there will be two runs of wire to route: signal wire from stock headlight positive to relay, and output wire from relay to ballast. If running dual HID setup, you'll need four runs, two for each ballast. This setup wouldn't be horrible and it will still work just fine.

    3.) Remote: ballast, ignitor, and relay all behind the battery. Still the same amount of wire to run, just different purposes: signal wire from stock headlight positive to relay, and output wire from ballast to bulb. Double the wires to four runs for a dual HID setup. This seems to be the least attractive since you'll basically be taking up all your available storage, which we have almost nill of anyway. Plus, I'm not sure how the HID system will handle a run of 4-6 feet between the ballast/ignitor and bulb.

    I'll be ordering a 55W kit from DDM soon and I'll post up a write-up when I'm done.

  10. #10
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    +7 for DDM. i say +7 cuz i just got DDM HID's for my self and 6 friends. i installed the last one just last night at the bar.



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