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99carbonx1
05-07-2010, 12:27 AM
99 X1 Lightning - 1200
So heres my problem - - Check engine light comes on intermittently below 2999 rpms. Once I hit 3000, it goes off. Light does not come on when setting idling. This happens after at least 4-5 minutes of riding under 3000 rpms. Now for a background. Traded in a touring bike for this, had a K&N air cleaner and Vance and Hines Exhaust (they are wrapped with pipe wrap from the prev. owner). Do not know if the "breathers" from the top of the head are hooked up correct. They run into a T (three hoses, one from each cylinder and the third into the bottom tube of the throttle body). I only thought of this after seeing Buells with catch cans on them - mine doesn't have one. Do not know if ECM has been remapped. These are all questions I have been curious about, but was not giving any problems at the time (except when running at constant speed for a while would occasionaly (once every 15+ minutes of riding) sound like a slight miss (like a sneeze) then go back to normal - engine light did not come on for this). Four weeks ago, I changed Engine oil and Primary oil and battery, used screaming eagle 20-50 and HD+ (whatever it is) for the primary. Did overfill the oil (did not realize until after I ran it and it blew the dipstick out of the tank), but drained it down to correct level. It was still 40-50 degree weather outside, and was riding around. There was one evening that I got caught away from home about a week and a half ago where it started to mist lightly, then quit, but got cold (35 degrees appx) - rode it home and was just fine. Two days later I went out to garage and rode it to work (let it warm up for appx 45 seconds) and after about 4 minutes (10 minute ride to work) the check engine light came on. I freaked, pulled over, shut it down, inspected for leaks, wires, etc... Nothing was found. Started back up, rode another few minutes, done the same thing. It was appx 45 degrees that morning. Checked the gas at work, looks ok, smells ok, no seperation (we have ethanol gas here in Mass). Looked at plugs, little grey on tip of electrode - had ngk d7ea in it. Rode home, light went off 4 X going back home. Starting to get warmer outside, appx 50 in morning and 65-70 at night. Once home, Looked online, found a descent (or at least I think) source said to run NGK DCPR8EIX. Got those, drained fuel tank completely, refill with 93 (always run 91+) took for ride, same thing, not quite as often. Getting upset, thought if just slow down it would go off, did not. Tried the other way - - once I hit 3 grand, it would do just a little sneeze then take off like a bat out of hell and the light would go off. When the light is on, there is no unusual noise, doesn't run any different (except for the sneeze when it hits 3000). Doesn't matter what gear you are in. What I am thinking is do I have a carbonizing issue that is messing up the O2 sensor or the head "vents" that tie back into the throttle body blow oil when I overfilled and jacked up the IAT or the O2 sensor, or temp sensor going, or ecm mapping, or fuel again. I did read there is a way to jump two of four pins and any codes will flash the check engine light - - followed per directions given and no codes showed. I am curious where to go from here. I am in search of a temp sensor right now, I live about 1 1/2 hours from nearest Buell dealer, and am going to see if I can get shop manual and temp sensor.

yellow50
05-07-2010, 03:01 AM
It may sounbd stupid but check you coil wires. I had my check engine light come on and off because the one of the wires was loose.

tuneport67ss
05-07-2010, 03:15 AM
Just to see how it does, pull the breather hose where it goes into the throttle body and cap it on the throttle body. THen throw a breather on the hose and go for a ride see if the "sneezing" gets better. If so , ti may still take a while for the light issue to quite, but it may after everything burns off. I think after you overfilled it, your problems began. Try to add the breather and see if this helps. I honestly think though that you are on the right track. Especially if it blew your dipstick out. YOu might also try some fuel injector cleaner that you pour in the tank. (DO NOT pour the whole bottle in your tank!!!) Those bottles are for full size car tanks that hold a lot more gallons. I think it says 1 bottle does 20 gallons. If so devide the ounces on the bottle by 5 (4 gallons in the bike will be close enough and easy to figure.) Add that amount to your bike and run the tank through. Maybe try it for a couple of tanks as well.

You have a dead spot and it could either be the ignition or fuel side. So make sure to check your wires and all as well. A fresh set of plugs doesnt hurt either.

And yes I know we are talking about a X1 and not the newer XB so make sure the DCPR8EIX plug fits your bike. Let us know what comes of it either way.

07Bolt
05-07-2010, 04:11 AM
if the engine light comes on with no codes then its probably not a sensor; like yellow50 said check plug/coil wires. worst case scenario is ur ecm not functioning

kalali
05-17-2010, 07:48 PM
As far as i know, there is no place on the throttle body on an X1 to plug in the breather outlet. So I assume you are talking about the air intake snorkle if you have the stock air box. As for the transiton from pre-3000 to post-3000, if that is where you consistently face the power delivery problem, then I would say your O2 sensor may be at fault since that is where the ECM switches from Open Loop to Closed Loop operation. But that usually throws a code and it remains stored. First and foremost you need to make sure your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is set/reset properly. Secondly, the DCPR8EIX plug is not the correclt plug for your X1. You should go with 9EIX contrary to what the NGK site recommends. But I don't think that is your issue. My suggestion is to do the easy things first (after a TPS reset); check to make sure all your ground connections are clean and properly tight. There big ones are the weaved flat one to the frame right above your swingarm and the one in the junction box right under your seat. And of course the battery connections. The check the wiring to the IAT and ETS to make sure there is no chaffing. Get a service manual and ECMSPY. You'll be happy you did.

99carbonx1
04-23-2011, 03:03 PM
I had an accident with the bike shortly after I posted this - my lawn tractor hit it, knocked it over, broke handlebars, shifter, all kinds of stuff. It had been setting since the end of May 2010 - Took the tank off, drained, cleaned, ran a light winter mix (I work on boats, just some gas, little 2 stroke oil, couple of other things to help with ethanol), ran thru motor for a few minutes on old spark plugs, ran out fuel (tank and injectors), battery on charge, all that good stuff. Just got my taxes back and got to spend a *little* money to get some parts. 2 Weeks ago I put everything back together, put some fresh premium in the tank, ran about 5 mins on the old plugs, put the new ones back in, and rode around town for two days (prob about 20 miles) - still same problem as before. I've read a lot of posts of ECM spy, so I got the cable, downloaded the program, and downloaded ECM read as well. So here we go - round #2. After finding the driver for the ecmspy cable, hooked up to bike - now the ecm read will work, will only download eeprom on factory race ecm, shut that program down and start ecmspy, it gives an error message - check cable, turn ignition and kill switch on before starting program. So I have done that. Restart the computer, plug in cable to bike plug into computer, ignition on, kill on, kickstand up, start program, same thing. Now if I try to go to stock or pro series ecm, it says wrong type, ecm not supported. So I did the whole restart computer (as said before), except this time I started the bike after kickstand up. Same thing happens. I'm starting to lose my mind here - - the program can read that a stock and pro series are the wrong ecms, but it tells me to check the cable connection on the factory race. Really what I would love to do (at least first) is just use the TPS resetter and look at the values of everything (the first screen when you start ecm spy). I'm starting to think if I cant get this figured out maybe next year if the taxman and the wife (both are evil) will allow, Im gonna say screw the FI and go carb.