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View Full Version : X1 idling at 2500rpm



demo17
06-04-2010, 09:30 PM
I just bought a '99 X1 this past Tuesday, love the thing. Today I went to lunch and on the way back to work I hammered on it in the country, when I come strolling into town, it starts idling at 2500 rpm. I have done some searching, could it just be the TP sensor needs reset? It seems like a good deal to buy the ECMspy cable. Could there be another issue? Thanks.

fahren
06-04-2010, 11:08 PM
Absolutely a good idea to get ecmspy and cable. Excellent for tps reset and many other things, even before you get into any fuel map tuning. But it's strange that you jumped to such a high idle so suddenly. Has it gone back down, now that you can start from cold, or does it jump right to 2500 at startup?

fahren
06-04-2010, 11:11 PM
Oh, and welcome, and congrats on a great bike. Need pix!

ajgerdes
06-05-2010, 12:27 AM
before you start messing with the fuel mapping i would put in new intake manifold gaskets. My bike was doing the exact same thing yours is doing. It would be fine cold then act up once it got warm.

demo17
06-05-2010, 06:39 AM
ok, so it acted up on my way back from lunch as described before. I go to leave work, hop on it, fire it up, and it is only running on 1 cylinder, shut it off, try to restart and it won't. It will just crank but won't start. And now that is where I am at. I am getting spark, and I am getting some fuel, but I don't know if it is enough. Surely the intake gasket being bad wouldn't prevent it from starting, it should just make it run like crap. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

ophawk
06-06-2010, 12:39 AM
I would definitely check for a vacuum leak FIRST. The Manifold gaskets are easy to get out of place if the manifold is messed with.

demo17
06-06-2010, 02:45 AM
If it won't start and run, what is the best way to test for this? Just spray around the intake with starting fluid and see if it will start?

ophawk
06-06-2010, 10:22 PM
that would be the easiest, or just pull the intake its not that hard on the tubers

demo17
06-07-2010, 01:35 AM
I blocked off the air intake, then sprayed around the intake manifold with starting fluid. It didn't even sputter to act like it wants to start. For me, it doesn't seem like it would be a vacuum leak. It is getting some fuel because when I pull the plugs, they are a little wet, but is it getting enough fuel? I don't know. I ordered a cable for ECMspy, so I guess i'll wait for that to get here.

demo17
06-11-2010, 02:33 PM
I got my cable for ECMspy. I'm going to work on it tonight. Any other ideas what could be the problem? It doesn't even hiccup and act like it wants to start.

ajgerdes
06-11-2010, 03:44 PM
have you checked for fuel and spark yet? is the fuel pump working? hope you get it figured out soon. :)

demo17
06-11-2010, 04:45 PM
I have good spark. I hear the fuel pump working, but I don't know what pressure it has. That will be something else I'll do tonight.

kalali
06-11-2010, 06:32 PM
I don't think the ECMSPY is going to be of much help to you at the moment if you are sure you have both spark and fuel and the check engine light did not come on. You can "test" the coils and the injectors using the tool just to confirm. I would (initially) concentrate more on electrical connections specially grounds and battery cables.

kalali
06-11-2010, 06:40 PM
There are a couple of ground points to start with: other than the battery cables, there is one "woven" ground cable terminating on the swingarm right where the rear hugger meets the swingarm and the other one is the ground "block" below the seat right next to the oil tank. Visual inspection is not good enough. You need to take them off, clean them good with sand paper, add dielectric compound and tighten them back up. Do the same thing with the connections (both grey and black) to the ECM. Good luck and keep us posted.

demo17
06-13-2010, 04:23 AM
It is all making sense now. I lost a screw on my butterfly, engine sucked it in and now my exhaust valve is not closing properly. High idle since everything was warm, not starting cause the exhaust valve is partially open. I adjusted timing and was able to get it running, and notice the awful racket is was making and shut it off. Compression test shows 150lbs on rear cylinder and 25lbs on front. So apart it comes.

Now a question. Can I remove cylinder head with the engine in the bike. Or do I have to pull engine?

ajgerdes
06-13-2010, 11:04 AM
you can do it, you have to take off the gas tank to get it out. Once your gas tank is out you can take off the intake manifold, for the one side your going to need a 1/4" ball end hex key. Also while your in there you should replace the front iso, and you will need to put in new front motor mount bolts as they are not to be re-used. You can get them from americansportbike.com, dont even try to use grade 9's as they are too weak and sheer off inside the head.

demo17
06-13-2010, 04:31 PM
Ok, thanks. What gaskets do I need to get? Is there a set somewhere or do I have to order them individually?

ajgerdes
06-13-2010, 05:03 PM
you will need rocker box gaskets, 2 intake gaskets, head gasket, base gasket and 2 exhaust gaskets. I just went to my local HD/Buell dealer and they had all of that in stock. Also you will need a ring compressor to put the cylinder back on. Just to warn you the base gasket is a pain in the butt to take off, you will need razor blades to take it off. Your going to think that the cylinder head wont come out through the frame but it does, you just have to turn it the right way. Also a tip for when you put the gaskets back on for the rocker box i used some RVT gasket maker to keep the gaskets in place while i put on the cover. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions about it. I just had to do this last summer only i had one of the front motor mount bolts break off in the head.

kalali
06-16-2010, 09:45 AM
You didn't say anything about the screw being sucked into the motor at the beginning..!! You could have avoided a lot of headache if you had not ridden the bike once the screw got into the motor. But now you are probably going to need a total engine rebuild. A job like that takes a lot of precision and patience if it is your first time but can be done. The most important tool you NEED is the Factory Service Manual if you don't have one already. Its a type of a job that you don't want to improvise...Trust me on this. Good luck.

demo17
06-22-2010, 06:00 AM
I didn't know anything about the screw being sucked in at first...hence not mentioning it. I took the head in to get rebuilt, needed a new intake valve. The other old one was slightly bent. Once I got it back together, I rode it back to my house (I was working on it at a friends), and on my way home, I started hearing a massive compression leak coming from the front side of the motor. I blew out the head gasket. About a 1" long piece is missing. I was using the chart that tells me the torque specs of all the bolts while I was installing everything. The torque spec for the head is 15ft-lbs, loosen and re-torque. So I did. I thought it seemed a little low, but who am I to argue with the book. Comes to find out, it is 15 ft-lbs plus 90*. Who know that made such a huge difference.:) So a new head gasket and 5 hours later, I got the bike up and going again. It would have been less than 5 hours, but I dropped a header nut into the header and played hell trying to get it out. So needless to say, I'm happy again. Thanks for your help guys.

ajgerdes
06-22-2010, 02:52 PM
glad you got it back together and riding! [up]:)