Rear brake adjustment

[Paniller]

I put on the Knight Design 2" drop pegs to make myself more comfortable (6'6"). Wow, what a difference. However, I can't lower the brake lever enough on the right side.

I see an adjustment screw on the top and bottom of the rod. I've screwed the bottom piece up as far as it'll go, until the threaded rod touches the pin holding everything together. I still need another 1/4 to 1/2" drop though.

I'm assuming there's more adjustment in the top of the rod, but I'm afraid to play with it. What's going on under the rubber boot? Can I just thread the rod upward further in there, or will it affect the brake function at all?

[Midnight82]

I'm fairly certain the rubber boot is the plunger for the master cylinder so you wont be able to adjust any higher, but you should have some vertical adjustment there.

[Paniller]

The screw goes into the rubber plunger, which is why I was hesitant to adjust it. It's more of a rubber seal, kinda. I'm assuming there's another smaller plunger/button inside, but I'm not sure if the threaded rod pushes it up, or if the nut moves the entire assembly and the threaded adjustment rod doesn't make contact. I don't want to turn it up, but then it makes contact and my brake is being held without me knowing it.

Hard to explain, I should go take a picture.

[Paniller]

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2/paniller/Bike/2010-06-07125410.jpg

Here ya go. Basically, that U-shaped piece spins up, which lowers the front of the lever in return. So, I move the nut blocking it up, knock the pin out to get the brake lever out of the U-piece, and spin the U-piece up.

But as you can see, I'm maxed out. The threaded rod it bottoming out on the pin. If I raise the U-piece higher, then I can't get the pin through. The threaded rod block the holes from lining up.

So, trying to find an alternative to grinding off the bottom of the threaded rod.

[Paniller]

Also, from a previous post:



Have you tried and seen how much movement you've got? You might be fine as-is. Loosening the Locknut (#3) and turning the Rod adjuster nut (#2) so that the Clevis (#4) is pulled up toward the adjuster nut. If so, you've got plenty of thread. Plus, because of the pivot point, a small movement in the adjustment rod is multiplied for the pedal.
- Just a thought in case you didn't need to cut it.

http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/2339_20100216101813_L.jpg

I'm not sure if I can turn that #2 part. It looks pretty much secured in there. Doesn't look like it rotates and I don't want to force it.

[Phazernut]

One suggestion is to cut the adjuster bolt a bit shorter if there is no other way to adjust it.

[redrider]

I just did this mod dremel with cut off disk I cut 1/4 inch off bottom off threded rod . It worked great for me. 5 to 10 min job.

[kalifornia]

lossen #3 spin threaded shaft with fingers, or do what redrider did

[lawdog]

The only way to get more adjustment down is to trim the bolt. Normally you loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster. The top of the adjuster does not screw into the master cylinder and only rotates.

[Paniller]

So I can rotate #2 on the diagram? It looked pretty sold on there. I guess I spin it, and the rod moves up and into the black depths that is the rubber boot. I was just afraid of that, as I can't see inside to see what can be affected.

I raised #4 for all my adjustment so far.

[lawdog]

Once you loosen # 3 you use #2 to raise or lower the rod in and out of the #4. The rod does not spin or thread into the rubber boot. It is fixed so to speak.

Normally you adjust the rear brake by loosing the lock nut then turning the whole rod to thread into or out of the cleavis. It doesn't adjust in or out of the boot. Its fixed at the Master cylinder. The adjustment comes from it threading in/out of the clevis.

Loosen the locknut # 3 then turn the whole rod at # 2 and you will see what I mean. To get more adjustment then what you have now you will need to trim the bolt shorter.

[Paniller]

ok, thanks. I did it a little backwards it seems, but I did the same thing. I pulled the pin out of the clevis, and spun the clevis up the shaft, instead of spinning the shaft down the clevis. (This sounds dirty)

I'll grab the dremel, I'll take another 1/4" off to make it comfortable.

[lawdog]

On a side note how do you like the 2" drop pegs? On a Lightning?

[Paniller]

It's great. It really gave me the extra knee room I needed. I'm 6'6", so I was a little cramped.