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sunnybabi1986
08-03-2010, 05:55 PM
I have a 2000 Buell Blast. When I shift into First and let out the clutch, after the bike moves about a foot, I hear a single "Clunk" from near the transmission. Subsequent shifts from 2-5 are normal. I did a primary clutch adjustment and also a chain adjustment, but nothing changed. Any ideas?

Thanks!

ezblast
08-04-2010, 01:02 PM
You need to do a Shift Pawl adjustment, and make sure your fluid is just to the gear teeth.
EZ

sunnybabi1986
08-07-2010, 09:56 AM
Do you know exactly what is happening when I hear the clunk? I'd like to know what's going on in there before I tear into the transmission :) The bike only has 7500 miles on it.

Have you seen this happen before?

Thanks again!!! I really appreciate the advice!

ezblast
08-11-2010, 08:17 PM
Exactly - nope, a number of things come into play - the drum pins need to be equalized in size, the detent clip and plate replaced, shift pawl adjustment done, the edges of the stator wire protection plate chamfered, look at your primary adjuster shoe, if worn looking replace - the primary is often adjusted too tight, leading to lower top end, very hard winter starting, low idle, etc. -, then clutch adjusted, then finally primary - its just a lot of parts just slightly mis-aligned type of thing.
EZ

07Bolt
08-11-2010, 08:39 PM
the last problem i saw was like ezblast stated, the shift drum is stick the shift pawl, we had the drum removed and smoothed out the place where it was sticking

ezblast
08-12-2010, 12:28 PM
On the XBBlast build, I have a Baker drum kit going in, to skip this problem which took the bike out of circulation in the first place - lol
EZ

alexk
05-04-2012, 04:03 PM
Couple questions if you don't mind.

1) Is the engine sprocket nut reverse or forward threaded? Can't seem to get it to come loose, and I'm to the point I'm concerned adding additional pressure may muck things up.

2) What do you mean by chamfering the stator wire protection plate? Where in the parts or service manual can I get a picture of the part? (I don't see any parts by that name)

OK, so that's really three. =p

alexk
05-05-2012, 02:41 PM
Not sure why it won't let me edit that post, but...

1) It is forward threaded. Push the bike backwards while lifting the cheater bar. It gently eased off rather than breaking away =)

Still concerned about #2 - What part is the Stator Wire Protection Plate? The bell around the rotor housing? Something else?

exhawgdoctor
05-15-2012, 01:10 PM
My 2001 has the same issue (clunk/jerk taking off in 1st sometimes) Does the trans exit out of the left side like an XL? Looking at my Blast it doesn't look like there's enough room to get the primary cover off (with the frame footrest mount there) let alone pull the trans out. Is this an engine out job?

ghostedrider
05-16-2012, 06:29 AM
doing the adjustments EZ suggested will make it work much better ......

and doing this service bulletin will be the icing on the cake for good operation.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/20164/573186.jpg

exhawgdoctor
05-17-2012, 10:48 AM
But if you need to get into the tansmission do you have to split the cases?

ghostedrider
05-18-2012, 07:50 AM
you need to remove the left foot rest mount arm,
and if you want to replace the tensioner or adjust the pins then yes the left case has to come off .

you do not need to remove the engine to do this.

exhawgdoctor
05-18-2012, 05:15 PM
on my 2001 the footrest arm is part of the frame.

pierce
05-19-2012, 02:28 PM
http://buellridersonline.com/forum/stock/6827-fix-your-transmission.html

exhawgdoctor
05-20-2012, 12:02 PM
Yeah! just found the nuts that hold the footrest mount arm!

exhawgdoctor
06-06-2012, 06:14 PM
OK so I'm trying to split the cases on my Blast to get to the shift forks & drum. A prior contributor said the left case can be removed without pulling the motor. So I've got everything off the primary drive, the top end (obviously) & taken out the 2 socket heads that hold the rear mtr mount to the left case, all the case bolts are out & the cases are slightly separating as oil is dripping out. But it won't go any further. Do I have to remove the timing cover & gear? So does the flywheel assy come out with the left case?

ghostedrider
06-06-2012, 11:50 PM
OK so I'm trying to split the cases on my Blast to get to the shift forks & drum. A prior contributor said the left case can be removed without pulling the motor. So I've got everything off the primary drive, the top end (obviously) & taken out the 2 socket heads that hold the rear mtr mount to the left case, all the case bolts are out & the cases are slightly separating as oil is dripping out. But it won't go any further. Do I have to remove the timing cover & gear? So does the flywheel assy come out with the left case?


did you even bother to follow the link pierce posted ? ---

it has excellent instructions and pictures !

also if your clutch cable is still connected the side wont come off - you must remove the clutch inspect / adjust plate to get at it.

exhawgdoctor
06-07-2012, 07:46 PM
As I said I've got the entire primary drive off, done this a million times on Sportsters, what I need to know is do I have to remove the pinion shaft nut & gear to get the left crankcase separated from the right? I'm thinking you do as the left main bearings are timken & pressed on & the right side is a slide in fit. So I'm assuming the flywheel assy comes out with the left case half? I've tried all the adjustments with the shift mechanism with no luck, it's something wrong internally.

pierce
06-07-2012, 09:08 PM
If you are splitting the case you will need to do a complete tear down. Remove the head, engine, get it out of the frame, remove the piston and keep rings in tact, then get it competely off the frame and go at it. The whole bike essentially needs to come out and tore down. It is a lot of work, and a lot of gaskets, but not hard.

Where are you at. Is the engine still attached?

exhawgdoctor
06-07-2012, 10:21 PM
I am trying to remove the left half crankcase & leave the right side in the frame. I have the top end off & all the primary drive & I've got the 2 socket head bolts out that hold the rear mtr mount to the left case. I've split many Sportster cases before but of course with them you can get the trans out without doing this.
This is my 1st Blast with a trans issue. I don't have a shop manual (yet) just a parts book. I cannot get it into 3rd to adjust the shift, it goes into 1st & neutral only, won't go any further, if I force it by rotating the detent plate & the input shaft then I kinda get other gears but when you turn the input shaft it doesn't feel right. I'm pretty sure it's a shift drum/fork problem. What I'm trying to figure out is, if the flywheel assy comes out with the left case half, then the trans should come out with it too? Leaving fifth/output gear in the rh case half. So I guess my next step would be to take off the timing cover & remove the pinion shaft nut & gear?

pierce
06-08-2012, 02:21 AM
Follow the manual.

http://buellridersonline.com/forum/blast/6800-manuals.html

Everything needs to be taken apart.

exhawgdoctor
06-08-2012, 09:56 PM
For all the doubting Thomas's out there here's proof it can be done. What y'all failed to tell me is that the swing arm pivot bolt screws into the left case unlike a Sportster which screws into the frame, which is why the cases wouldn't part even after I'd removed the timing cover & gears.
The problem is the 3rd & 5th gear shift fork which was seized to the shift drum. Looks like a piece of metal sworf got under the locating pin.blast 2 cases split3rd5thshift fork
I have a couple of pictures for you but can't figure out how to attach them to this reply, so click on my user name [exhawgdoctor] & click on my images.

I should also add, this isn't the 2001 Blast I mentioned earlier hat has the lurching after engaging 1st, I'm still riding that one, this is a 2005 that would only engage 1st & neutral.