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View Full Version : Replacing the front engine isolator



eugene
04-20-2011, 01:26 AM
Hi all,

Not been around for a while, but recently got another Ulysses.

I;ve noticed a lot of heavy vibration when braking (like driving over a cattle grid) and along with a quick visual check looks like my front isolator needs replacing.

Am I right to assume to remove and refit I need t do the following:

- place bike on paddock stand to hold it upright
- Put jack under front jacking point below the exhaust
- raise jack to support, but not lift the bike
- undo isolator bolt
- undo isolator-to-engine bolts

Reverse to fit new one

Sound about right?

Anything else I need to watch out for?

Thanks for any advice!

JOEL9
04-20-2011, 07:15 AM
What does your isolator look like? here is a pic. of bad vs. good.

http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/2621_20100915152233_L.jpg

Johny Kidd
04-20-2011, 07:32 AM
Before opening the isolator-to-engine bolts, you have to support the frame, under the triple tree for example.

jimijeans
04-21-2011, 01:19 AM
Yes, watch the oil lines by the cooler also the clutch cable,and put a lock OR a pin in one of the Rotor Vents and let it rest against the Caliper.Put just enough pressure on the bottom of the exhaust that if something slips you're ok plus a small jack stand is never a bad idea.Another small trick is 2-pieces of wood put w/ a couple screws/nails to hold together and with short 2x4s on each side as a rail. Usually a doubled 2X6 under the front wheel gives you some work room.The sides on the 2x6s keep it from turning to far and possibably pinching your hands.If you have a way to suspend the front from the tripple tree safley & watch your cables you'll do just fine .Just couple of thoughts ~Jimi

freak2180
04-21-2011, 07:21 AM
I did it by putting rear of bike on a stand, then put a small floor jack under the front mount of my drummer ss. Jacked up just enough to see the broken isolator move up until it stopped. Then I pulled the old one (04) off and replaced it with one from a 07. I'm not sure if anyone has noticed but the newer isolators are made completely diff inside than the older style. Mime took me about 30 min start to finish.

johndb
04-21-2011, 10:22 AM
Just did mine the same way, freak, broke all three bolts loose before jacking up at the stock muffler's jacking point. Went up until I could turn the isolator bolt out easily. Remember to use a torque wrench and coat only the isolator bolt threads and shaft with anti-seize. The two isolator mounting bolts go in dry. The isolator has been revised, and my new part was dated 03/12/11, part number L0501.4A8

eugene
06-21-2011, 03:57 AM
Sorry - totally forgot about this post!

Having looked at it closer, I've decided it's probably fine.

The vibration has now gone, so I think it was just dirty brake discs as the previous owner never rode it much!

However I did have a problem on a previous Buell (a 2003 Lightning) where the isolator bolt had seized - It ended up costing me about £500 to have HD fix (they had to strip the front of hte bike and cut the isolator off!).

So I wanted to at least try and unscrew the isolator bolt by one turn just to make sure I wasn't going to have the same (expensive) problem.

I didn't budge!

Should I just 'put my back into it' or is there a clever way to loosen the bolt? Or am I buggered... again?

freak2180
06-21-2011, 06:18 AM
My 04 was so tight i all but stripped out the allen head trying to remove it. I eventually had to put a BIG set of visegrips on the outside of the bolt head to eventually get it loose.

onelogue
11-29-2011, 08:35 PM
Righty tighty lefty loosy right?

onelogue
11-29-2011, 10:19 PM
Righty tighty lefty loosy right?
Answered my own question. Turn left to Loosen. Dang that bolt was a tight one!! [mad]

http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/3100_20110427182707_L.jpg