View Full Version : Stalling out

03-24-2012, 09:28 AM
Ok, so I took the bike out today and everything was fine at first. Got about 15 miles from home and was at a stoplight....when I went to take off, it quit. Ok...no problem...I assumed vapor lock at first. Popped the gas cap, and by the time I had rolled thru the intersection it started back up. 1/2 a mile later (with cap still popped open) at the NEXT light, same damned thing. Luckily nobody was behind me this time. Got over to the side of the road, gave it a sec and again...fired back up. Drove it to the first parking lot and let it sit for about 10 minutes. It started up fine and was ok until about a nile from home. Same deal...went to take off from a stop and it quit, only this time I got it to fire back up right away.

Checked my plug & wire, both are brand new and seated good. Vent line has no kinks or clogs. Das boot is brand new. I'm sorta stumped. Any ideas on what to check next? It does seem to be idling a bit high, but I dont want to mess with anything until I get a better idea of whats wrong.
And if it makes any difference...its a 2001 Blast with 5600 miles. Any help would be appreciated.

03-24-2012, 02:55 PM
sounds like a vacum leak check the carb seat.

03-24-2012, 08:20 PM
Checked that brumbear. Everything seems to be fine there. If this problem was consistent, it'd be easier to track down. It did it last week and no problems again until the ride today. Ive taken it out 4 times trying to duplicate the conditions and its ran fine. All Ive done was turn the idling down to a more respectable level. *shrugs* So...still stumped....[confused]

03-25-2012, 05:41 PM
I think I may have tracked down the culprit....
Sinc eit only seems to do this when the bike is hot, I was told it's most likely the coil. After it's sat for a few minutes, it starts right back up like nothing happened. Coil gets hot and when I try to take off from a stop, bam...no spark. Sit, cool, repeat...So...tomorrow I'm headed out to track one down locally, unless someone has another suggestion that could cause the same weirdness......

03-27-2012, 02:55 PM
Ok....finally managed to get the bike to act up again on MY terms (lol). I checked the ignition module, and yes, I'm getting the LED to light up the way its supposed to. So, I'm down to the coil being the culprit. I dont have any tester equipment, so I'll have to do this all the hard way. The coil I have on there is gonna cost almost 60 to replace, so she'll prolly be sitting still until I can get the $ together for it. :(

03-31-2012, 06:53 AM
That's too bad. I just had to put a new tire on mine. At least we had the money for it. But, it saves me so much on gas I had to get it.

Hope you get it figured out soon. Mine was brand new when I got it, but had sat in the shop for 3 years. And, I couldn't keep it running at low speeds. Since this was my first street bike, I didn't have a license and tried to take my test on it. It kept stalling out, so I failed. Took it back to the shop. They had it for 3 days, but I'm not sure what they did. Put another 3 miles on it, took the test again and aced it.

03-31-2012, 09:05 PM
I have a guy supposed to come over in the next cpl days to help me figure it out. I'm still hoping for a low cost problem. I'm not even going to touch it now until I have someone with a bit more experience giving me a hand.

07-01-2012, 06:18 PM
Well.....update to my issue.....

Replaced the boot and it made a hell of a difference. At least at first. Now, it doesnt want to idle right at all. Ive dbl and triple checked the boot seating and its got a good seal. I DID run it out of gas and I'm thinking I may have garbage gumming up a jet. Ive never done this before and reading the material here is a bit overwhelming. Is it an easy job? And how much am I looking at for cost? Currently on a tight budget, but I want/need this ride going (for my own sanity. ;) ) Was too hot out yesterday to get into working on it, so I just parked it and walked away. LOL Anyway, Ive flipped the diode, how do I disable the kickstand safety (since Ive seen it listed as a possible cause for interference but havent been able to find a post with instructions to actually do it). Not gonna touch carb until everything else is eliminated. THX

07-01-2012, 07:00 PM
Cut and twist the wires together, Then electrical tape it and tuck it somewhere safe.

07-01-2012, 07:23 PM
Thats all there is to it? Ok, gonna try that now, thank you, pierce.

I'm really getting frustrated here tho. I got the idling down where it should be (close anyway, by ear), so its not revving bad anymore. Just got back from a quick ride and it sputtered and quit at the stop. Got it started (after 5 tries and quits), started down the road and it popcorned something wicked, I pulled onto my street and into my drive (yep, was that close to home luckily). It stalled again as I parked. Got it restarted but it doesnt want to stay idling. Almost like a skip, then it bogs out and dies on me if I try to give it some throttle.

Checked the led's on the ignition module and they flash brightly. I'm thinking maybe bad plug wire?? Garbage in the carb? Possibly bad coil? It only acts up when it's warmed up, if that helps.

I did try running with the gas cap loose and it doesnt make a difference

07-01-2012, 08:26 PM
You might want to run some seafoam through the gas, cheap and easy way of ruling out the jetting and making sure they are not plugged. Even better, B12.

When it stalls out, did you check the ignition light? Usually when its going it will start acting up when hot, but be fine other times so unless you checked when the problem happens, I would do so to rule out ignition. Coils very rarely go bad.

I would replace your spark plugs, wires and check ignition before I suspected coils. All cheap and easy things to do. I would also check your grounds and make sure they are clean and tight and make sure the battery is good.

Once all the these things are verified as good - ignition it is. I can't even remember the last time I hear a coil going bad, but if you absolutely insist, then go to a friends house and use a voltmeter to test it. Easy to do, and takes the guess work out of it. You can also buy one for just a few dollars.

07-01-2012, 08:57 PM
Check your petcock is flowly freely. Crap in the tank can block it and give similar symptoms to clogged tank vent.

Rare that the coil goes out without frying the ignition module.

07-01-2012, 09:23 PM
Ok, I have checked the ignition light when it stalls and flashes brightly like its supposed to, so I'm going to rule that out, for now. I plan on replacing the plug/wire as soon as I have the money, as well as getting some seafoam to run thru it. (By the end of the week) I only mention the coil, because an HD guy told me it's a common symptom of a bad coil, ie: quits when it gets hot. I never had any problems like this with my former rides, so I'm trying my best here. BTW, I went out to do the kickstand bypass...no need. It's already been done by previous owner. I'm leaning towards a carb/fuel flow issue now. Today I was only out for less than 10 mins when it started giving trouble.

Ignition module and coil are the modded ones Ive seen here, not stock. I'm wondering if it's possible the previous owner didnt do the carb work, or didnt do it right? Would that maybe cause this? Either way, it looks like I'm going to have to get into the carb at some point.
So, I guess until I can get the seafoam run thru it, I'll just have to let her sit and wait.
THX again.

07-02-2012, 03:20 AM
So it flashes with idle?

What you are describing does not sound like a carb issue. Poor running, can't keep an idle, hesitation etc, those are all typical of a clogged jet, but cutting out when hot is not one of them.

Get a voltmeter and test away. All my bikes are carbed, and most have been over the years and that would be the last thing I suspect with what you describe.

07-02-2012, 03:37 AM
If the module is aftermarket, which one is it? What coil is in use? Some ignition modules require a 3ohm coil, some require a 1/2ohm coil.

Also check your petcock flows freely. Have you tried running it on reserve instead of regular?

I agree, it doesn't sound like a clogged jet.

07-02-2012, 04:22 AM
The coil is 3 ohm Twin Tek. And the ignition module is the same brand. And yes, it does flash with idle.
And like Ive stated, it only starts giving me trouble when its hot. Depending on the temp outside, I can almost say 15-20 minutes. Bit less if it's really hot (like today was). Ive never had problems like this with any other bike Ive ridden, hence my complete frustration. And the only reason I questioned the coil, is because my HD friend and my father both suggested it as an overheating coil. I dunno, to be honest. I'll try to get my hands on a meter and see what it tells me.

When she's cold, she runs like a dream. I took it out to run over to the store tonight, and it was fine, but it's been sitting since early this afternoon. But once I try and really ride, I get this quitting issue. Ive been trying to do my homework here, searching through every resource I can find, and I havent been able to find MY problem exactly. Similar, yes, but nothing quite the same. I'm almost to the point of just selling it and getting something else, but damn.....I really really like this ride....

07-02-2012, 12:55 PM
Jet would know more about that ignition than I would.

07-02-2012, 03:05 PM
This problem has been documented at BuellRidersOnline.com and the BadWeb, though it's usually the module that fails.

The Daytona Twin-Tec does utilize a 3-ohm coil (stock is 1/2 ohm), so you're fine there.

The coil doesn't see much heat as it's not mounted to the engine.

Do you have any spare ignition parts to swap in for troubleshooting? An extra 3-ohm coil (from any Harley) or another single-fire ignition (from any 97-03 Sporty)? If you have either/both of those to swap, then it's pretty easy to troubleshoot.

07-02-2012, 04:51 PM
Yeah, I don't have any nor access to any spares. :( Wish I did. From what Ive read, the module would only be bad if the LED's either didnt light up or were dim? Mine aren't dim. *shrug* I dunno. All my other rides were old tech. LOL Didnt have any of the fancy electronics.

07-02-2012, 07:06 PM
Modules can go bad in a variety of ways that can be difficult to detect. If the light is going, then you definitely know, but unfortunately thats not always the case.

Sometimes mechanical things have their advantage, as with modern ignitions its all electronic, so when they go - which isn't often - you just need to replace them.

nonsense lecture/ Personally, the odds of your ignition going are increased given that you have an aftermarket. Not that the ignition is not as reliable but it ups the chances that the PO was not as mechanically inclined as he thinks he was. In other words, your bike is only as good as the last mechanic who worked on it. Unfortunately many motorcycle owners take the initiative of doing their own work. I think thats a great thing, but when things go wrong, don't count your mechanical experience out if things go wrong, take it as a learning experience and know that you will do better next time. The wrong thing to do is just to blame the part. /end lecture!

07-02-2012, 07:49 PM
LOL Yeah, I totally understand and agree, thats why I'm here asking questions. Which brings me to......
Is it possible for it to act like this, if the PO didnt rejet the carb? I obviously won't know until I tear into it, but if it wasnt rejetted, is it even a possibility it would cause it? I do plan on doing it myself, just to be sure, unfortunately I can't get the cash up for a cpl weeks, and with little children around, time is limited too. I was just out with it idling now, started fine, but idle is strange....seems to idle good for 20-30 secs, pops, bogs for a moment, then repeats. And after a cpl minutes, it starts idling higher. I can prolly do up a vid later if that would help explain it?

I prefer to do my own work on my vehicles, if/when it's possible. I'm more comfortable being my own mechanic, so if something goes wrong, it's either MY fault, or it's something new. LOL At least as far as MY ownership of said vehicle goes.

That said, once this issue is fixed, I plan on doing some of the mods Ive seen around. I like the idea of the side pipe, instead of the under pipe. Right now, I'm still running a stock exhaust. But, those ides will have to wait.

**** And to add, the module is the Twin Tek 1005 model, if that helps any. Ive never had rides with electronics, so this is all new stuff to me. :)

07-02-2012, 10:06 PM
Wrong jetting will cause to run lean/rich, but not to cut out. Plugged jet would cause it to run poorly, or not at all, including when its cold. So I think for now I would look elsewhere. I am a carb man, have worked on lots of carbs, and it just doesn't show any symptoms of a bad carb. However, taking off the float bowl and verifying what jets you have might be a good idea. That has little to do with your problem though.

Stay strong, you also might want to get some advice on BuellRidersOnline.com as there are quite a few very knowledgable blast guys on the site that are very quick to troubleshoot. There are also blast owners that have experience with that module on the site.

07-02-2012, 10:52 PM
Wrong jetting will cause to run lean/rich, but not to cut out. Plugged jet would cause it to run poorly, or not at all, including when its cold.

Yeah, I told ya I was getting frustrated....that didnt even occur to me and it should have. LOL

I'll head over to the other site later and see what answers I can find there.

07-08-2012, 05:23 PM

Ok, since I was here last, I spent a few hours listening to other Blasts via youtube, and it dawned on me that the *cough* I was getting is a misfire (obvious I know but sometimes the simple answers kinda tiptoe past). So, I adjusted my timing a shade and now it no longer coughs and quits on idle. Actually purrs (or growls LOL) like its supposed to. I have taken it out for a cpl 10 minute rides and so far so good.
I'll know for certain later today after I try to get past the 20 minute warm up (where it's been quitting). I'm starting to think that when I got the bike, I should have taken someone with me who knew Blasts. Could have avoided these issues altogether. Boot was bad causing it to idle extremely high, and hiding the timing being off. For the moment it seems to be running like it was supposed to. Definetely better than it has been up til now.

I certainly am going to keep watch on the ignition module tho. From what Ive read on other forums, these symptoms are indicative of IM failure imminent. I'll just have to hope and pray that it's ok now and I don't have to put it up and wait for the $$ to get a new IM.
I'll post back later on whether Ive broken the 20 minute barrier Ive been hitting, or if it's still there. :)

07-08-2012, 11:17 PM
Well, I took it out, rode for about 15 minutes, got close to home just in case and sure enough....turned a corner, she sputters and quits. Tried to restart and just cranks. Pulled over into a driveway and sat there looking stupid for a cpl minutes and it starts back up. At this point, I was only a cpl blocks from home. So....it's gotta be a bad IM.
On a side note tho, once it cooled off it starts back up fine and purrs like its supposed to. *sigh*

So....since I currently have the Twin Tec 1005 module and the 3 ohm coil to match, can I just get a stock IM to put back in? And if I do this, do I have to replace the coil, or will it be ok with the 3 ohm?
Either way, right now I can't afford a freakin module for it anyhow and I'm stuck listening to the wife complain about my "worthless POS".

Mark XB12r
07-08-2012, 11:33 PM
Either way, right now I can't afford a freakin module for it anyhow and I'm stuck listening to the wife complain about my "worthless POS".
Hahaha! tell her you would be able to aford a new part after the divorce[cool]

07-08-2012, 11:59 PM
LMFAO Yeah, riiiight....then with my luck the judge would award her the car, bike and just about everything else I have. :P

I'm attempting to browse ebay to see if I can find an OEM module. Not that I want a 2nd hand part, but to get an idea what it might cost me.

07-09-2012, 07:55 PM
The oem ignition module requires a .5ohm coil.

07-09-2012, 08:09 PM
Thanks for the info. Since the PO did the swap-out from OEM to hi-per, is there anything I need to do special? Or can I get OEM parts and just swap and set the timing?

07-11-2012, 12:19 AM
I have my old used oem ignition if you looking for something that might be a bit more affordable. It was running just fine when I swapped it out for a programmable one.

07-11-2012, 10:46 AM
Damn! I should have looked here first.....I ordered a new duplicate to the one thats on the bike now. I should have it by Monday. But I appreciate the thought. :)

07-13-2012, 08:54 PM
Ok, new IM came in today. Got it installed, bike started right up fine. Took it out for a ride and fk me...it quit about 15 minutes out. Same damned thing. So, I'm going to look for another Twin Tec 3ohm coil to put on it. I don't know what else could be wrong.

07-18-2012, 12:54 PM
Test the coil.

07-18-2012, 04:47 PM
I just went ahead and ordered the damned thing. Should be here by the end of the week. I'm going to hand on to the IM I replaced. Just in case the new one dies, I won't have to throw down another $200. I'll repost once the coil gets here.

07-21-2012, 07:56 PM
So, new coil arrived today. Installed it and as far as I can tell the problem is solved.
Bike ran for about 40 minutes before I shut her down. So, coil was faulty after all. Bout damned time I get to have a blast on my Blast. LOL

08-29-2013, 05:51 AM
Thanks for sharing you solution