View Full Version : 01 blast 3100 miles ride ability issues

06-10-2012, 04:19 AM
So last year the blast I picked up for my wife rode good.
I put stabil in the gas put it on battery tender and left it in the garage.

So I got out the blast and she started right up I rode around the block pulled back the garage and shut her down. Next day she started right up I rode 500 feet and then she "ran out of gas". I had a full tank. So I changed the plug. and she started right up no choke at start up just starts idles low and when you give it throttle she bogs out.

Any ideas what may be going on?

06-10-2012, 12:40 PM
Check that carb boot.

06-10-2012, 03:01 PM
i did and do not see any crack or rips. if it idling and i hit the boot with carb clean if thats leaking the idle should change right?

06-10-2012, 11:50 PM
Correct it should. Your main jet could be clogged man. I'd pull it and clean the bowl, and jets.

06-11-2012, 02:06 AM
Don't touch your carb!

Try seafoam in the tank and run it through.

06-11-2012, 10:50 AM
seafoam would take for ever since the bike is non ride able
in current status.

06-23-2012, 11:12 AM
ok installed the super boot. same issues!
Any other ideas? Im going to check my grounds. the only thing is usually it idles really high when warming up then idles down its not doing that.

06-26-2012, 10:58 PM
Disable all safeties. Flip center diode in fusebox and cut and twist kickstand safety wire together. THey often cause this. Best to rule it out.

Try riding with your fuel cap cracked to see if your vent line is clogged.

06-28-2012, 01:12 AM
If it sat for a year with gas in it, it's very likely that something brass is gummed up. It doesn't hurt to take the bowl off and check that the main jet is clear. Don't disassemble any part of the carb any further than that.

06-28-2012, 01:36 AM
+1 on checking the bowl/main jet

06-29-2012, 09:39 PM

06-29-2012, 09:41 PM
ok i tried to link a youtube video but ? buell (http://youtu.be/RC44hR281-s)

06-29-2012, 11:17 PM
Did you check for a clogged main jet?

Turn off fuel.
Remove the four screws from the fuel bowl.
Remove fuel bowl.
Inspect the main just sticking out right there.

Report back.

06-30-2012, 02:35 AM
ok I will. I have thus far replaced the fuel line, vent and new spark plug. Also the super boot. I drained out the gas and cleaned the in tank filter. The ground on the front left I inspected it but it was very clean so I took sand paper and scrubbed it all up.

I will take the 4 screws out of the bottom of the carb. I am not a carb guy so I sorta scared.

06-30-2012, 07:30 PM
That sure sounds like a safety being triggered. Did you flip the diode and at the very least investigate the kickstand safety?

Doesn't behave like its a jet issue, so in my opinion there is no need to dig into your carb.

07-01-2012, 06:05 PM
If it starts, that eliminates the clutch switch and BAS as potential issues. If it didn't start, that would be either the clutch switch or BAS.

If he's not putting it in gear, that eliminates the kickstand switch. If it dies when letting the clutch out in gear, that would be the stand switch.

If it idles in neutral with the stand down, the trans in neutral and the clutch out (basically with no hands on the bike at all), then dies when only throttle is applied, it sounds like a fuel issue. Either a clogged main jet or a missing needle jet (aka collar).

07-01-2012, 06:13 PM
If the BAS (Bank Angle Sensor) is tripped, the engine won't start, period. That leaves the kickstand, clutch and neutral switches.

Here's some examples of how those three work together:
1. In gear, stand up, clutch out = stand provides ground.
2. In gear, stand up, clutch pulled = clutch/stand provide ground.
3. In gear, stand down, clutch out = no ground
4. In gear, stand down, clutch pulled = clutch provides ground
5. In neutral, stand up, clutch out = neutral/stand provide ground
6. In neutral, stand up, clutch pulled = neutral/stand/clutch provide ground
7. In neutral, stand down, clutch out = neutral provides ground
8. In neutral, stand down, clutch pulled = neutral/clutch provide ground

So the OP's issue is during #7. With the stand down and the clutch out, the neutral switch is providing a ground for the ignition. If it dies when revved, it's either a bad ground switch (doubtful) or a fuel issue. Seeing as the bike sat for a year with fuel in it, with brass in the fuel...it's safe to assume the brass reacted with the fuel and gummed up the main.

I'm not speaking theoretically here, I've rebuilt countless carbs for that EXACT issue.