New Blast Cylinder Head Issues

[cgborders]

So I bought a 2001 Blast Yesterday with 6k miles on it.
Story goes the previous owner was riding it, loud backfire, bike died. He was not able to restart it.

I picked it up and started checking it out. Absolutely no compression. Turns out exhaust valve is stuck open. I pulled the head this evening. The pushrod is bent (not "oh look, its not straight." but "OH WOW!!!").
I'm going to talk to a machine shop tomorrow to see about repairing head.
My big question is what else should I check? Should I look at cams, bottom end, rings, etc?

Also, anyone know where I can download a service manual for it?

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SzPyU8E1i3A/T-xQkmWpAtI/AAAAAAAAB44/ldgg4-79Paw/s542/1340821864385.jpg

[jetlee]

A bent pushrod won't leave a valve stuck open. You have other problems.

A stuck valve will damage the guide.

A new guide requires a full valve job. May as well upgrade once in there.

[pierce]

Depends. If you just want to get it up and going then I would just replace the pushrods, rebuild the head with new guides, seals and springs etc (and gaskets) and get on your way. I would also check piston and make sure everything is good while you are there.

I wold also suggest investigating the cause of the damaged parts. Why is the valve stuck open? Why is the pushrod bent? Did the PO modify it at all?

So the story goes - and then down the rabbit hole we go.

There are a few of us Blast owners that will find the situation a bit too inviting and rationale that you if you are that far in why not just 515 it and get some headwork done with stronger valves and guides and suddenly you have a mean little corner carver with double the HP and you'll be passing bigger bikes in the twisties all day long.

How far you want to go is all up to you.

http://www.christopherwilliampierce.com/buell_cafe_racer_sideview3.jpg

[cgborders]

There is an exhaust stud that is broken so pipe was not seating well. My theory is that caused the valve to burn/stick. The pushrod bent pressing against valve.

Would this issue damage lifters or cams?

I'm debating about upgrading while I'm this deep into it; thinking the 515cc kit from NRHS. Looks pretty good but have this feeling cost would shoot up since I'd need to upgrade exhaust and intake as well (both stock) to make it worth while.

[jetlee]

Would this issue damage lifters or cams?
Very doubtful, the pushrod took the punishment. If the exhaust valve is indeed stuck open, you need to inspect your piston very closely.

As pierce said, going that far into the engine is very inviting. If you're having headwork done (even just fixing broken pieces) and replacing the piston...imo you may as well get a package deal and upgrade.


I'm debating about upgrading while I'm this deep into it; thinking the 515cc kit from NRHS.Â* Looks pretty good but have this feeling cost would shoot up since I'd need to upgrade exhaust and intake as well (both stock) to make it worth while.

Get the 515 from RevPerf not NRHS (Brian Nallin @ RevPerf, original owner of NRHS - Nallin Racing Head Service). Call RevPerf cause their internet price is not correct for the kit. RevPerf are great guys to talk to, eager to answer any question I threw at them.

We've been getting NRHS failures lately along with less-than-desireable customer service from Daniel Dunn (current owner of NRHS). Out-of-round jug, stuck/bent valve, wrong valve train equipment...all replacements had to be paid for, they were NOT waranteed/guaranteed, as RevPerf's are.

Also, Dan Norlin (w/ Aaron Wilson @ Hammer Performance, 2nd owners of NRHS) used to be the machine shop behind NRHS. However, he cut ties back in April. Call Hammer or Revolution for your head work. Aaron Wilson was great fun to chat with about cam profiles and timings. Dan Norlin was very courteous and helpful answering any questions I've ever had for him.

http://www.revperf.com
http://www.hammerperf.com

[cgborders]

Quick update, got the head getting rebuilt as we speak; should be ready tomorrow. The piston is being replaced, small mark from valve. More worrisome however is the rear edge of the piston is falling apart. Looks like the cast metal is deteriorating, small chunks fall off if you mess with it. Fortunately the bore looks good but having it checked and honed with new piston fitted.

I was really trying to convince myself to go all out but just couldn't justify the money (have a tricked out SV if I need more speed) so going back pretty much stock internals. Hopefully I'll have it back together this weekend.

[cgborders]

Got it assembled today, turned the motor over by hand... the piston comes up and stops as it hits the head!!! Its the wrong one!!! So had to tear the motor back apart. New piston is on its way.

Pierce- can I get some pictures/ info on your rearsets? Think that will be a project soon after I get it running.

[Daali]

Banke Performance (http://www.bankeperformance.com/buell/rearsets.html)

You have to call or email to get price and order

[jetlee]

Where did you get your headwork and piston from?

[cgborders]

Update: after few hold-ups and a cross country move the bike is finally back together and running. No issues with head so far, carb seems to be pretty close.

Few questions- I've never owned or ridden a buell before (and this one wasn't running when I bought it) so not entirely sure what to expect.
1) vibrations- I'm know these do it a lot; however, at idle there is so much running into the front end that the forks look almost like a po-go stick. Is that much normal?

2) shifting from neutral into 1st at a stop- grinding going into gear. Cable is adjusted, do I need to do a clutch adjustment (6k miles on bike)

3) Sloppy shifting when ridding- I'm use to my SV650 so not sure if this is just nature of buell or something that can be fixed

Once these few issues are dealt with its on to the fun part- Mods! I wanted to make sure mechanically it was sound before investing time in modifications