View Full Version : Bike won't start back up...can't figure out why!

07-05-2012, 01:57 PM
Yesterday I rode my 2001 Blast for about thirty miles and after a couple of stops, it wouldn't start back up. It's not a battery issue. After eliminating a few other possibilities, my husband took the carburetor apart and we came across this black stuff in the plunger for the automatic choke. We can't tell if it's dirt or an old seal. Does anyone know?


It appears to be some sort of rubber compound, so I think it's some sort of seal, but I don't have anything to compare it to. Also, upon looking at the air filter it looks unusually dirty for only having 1000 miles on it. Is it possible for the air filter to get that dirty from only 1000 miles? And what's the hose on the inside of the air box supposed to connect to? It has a hose clamp on it but nothing to connect it to.


Thanks for any help!

07-05-2012, 02:22 PM
How many mes are on the blast and had there been any recent repairs? What kind of trash is in the air filter looks somewhat black.

07-05-2012, 02:40 PM
First, replace your boot. 99 percent of the time the boot tears and then the bike won't run. Their is a 'superboot' that Dan sells that solves the boot issue (can find it on ebay).

Second, wow, you really took the carb apart. Put that thing back together and try not to mess with it unless you have to. Taking apart the carb only increases the chances that you will have additional problems. Lets hope thats not the case.

Third, the pcv valve T''s off and vents in the air box. So yes, thats normal for the filter to be dirty. What most riders do is to eliminate the T and have it vent towards the ground, or use a small filter at the T and plug the hose.

look in this picture and you can see the small air filter.


07-05-2012, 05:53 PM
I'm still new to this so forgive me for asking...but what is the boot?

07-05-2012, 08:09 PM
The boot is the small rubber part that connects the carb to the engine. Because of poor design, it often tears.


The only real solution (not made by buell) is the superboot:


You can buy them from Dan on ebay.

07-06-2012, 01:50 AM
Checked the boot and it's fine. Any other ideas?

07-06-2012, 04:54 AM
How did you check it?
What do you mean by won't start. Does it crank and crank, or just click?

07-06-2012, 02:51 PM
I checked it by taking it off. There are no tears or any signs of wear on it. And it doesn't click. It makes the sound it should when starting the bike, just without the start. If that makes sense. We are going to replace the spark plug and wire to see if that is the issue because the wire doesn't seem to fit on the spark plug correctly. It fell off before and has been loose, so hopefully this is the issue!

07-06-2012, 04:37 PM
ok, so after searching more, the problem is the engine not getting fire. Plug is brand new, the wire is brand new. I can't seem to find out how to check the secondary circuit on the coil pack. I found a manual but I'm kinda confused on how to test it, to how it should be different to the primary circuit.

The coil does have the 13v going to it, so i'm leaning to the coil being bad, but I'm not 100% sure of how to test the coil, and I don't want to buy a new one without knowing the one I have is bad. The bike only has 1000 miles on it, so i truly doubt it's bad.

Another thing, a friend of my said that it might be a "ballast" switch, which he described as a switch that would shut the bike off if it tipped over. After searching, I can't find anything saying the Blast does or doesn't have one, can anybody confirm this?

Thanks for any/all help

-The Husband

07-07-2012, 03:43 PM
The previous owner had the carb cleaned by "some guy" who works on buells, he showed us the receipt from the work and he had replaced a couple of things in the carb due to corrison from old gas & sitting.

Also, we had to jump my husbands sv650 off of my bike (jumper cables that were made for a bike that had a charging issue), could that hd somehow caused the issue? We've jumped from one bike to another numerous times with no issue at all, so I don't see what it would hurt on this one.

07-07-2012, 04:56 PM
Jumping from one bike to the other should be fine. It is only from a car that could fry things.

I also highly doubt its the coil, wire, or spark plug. However, those things are easy to rule out if need be. This should help, its not specific to the motorcycle, but same thing. Using a multimeter is easy, so don't be intimidated by it. http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-test-a-motorcycle-ignition-coil#b

I would buy a new boot anyways. Often they crack imperceptibly to the eye, but if you get any air leak this is exactly what will happen. Its a cheap part - like 13 dollars and easy to change out. Eventually you need to invest in the superboot bu Dan or your boot will break, and not when you want it too.

This could also be a safety. Don't worry about the tip sensor, it resets itself after the bike is turned off and back on. However, you should flip the center diode disabling the clutch safety, and also disable the kickstand safety if you haven't already. Just cut the wires underneath the bike and twist them together. They go bad often and will cause this as well.

07-07-2012, 05:02 PM
This is something I posted on another forum, some of it might help.

So, what should you do when the bike just clicks when you press the starter?

1 - check battery (recharge, buy a new one, have old tested etc)

does it start?

2 - Check and clean all connections to the battery. This includes both grounds. One is directly connected to the negative side of the batter, just follow the wire and you can't miss it. The second one is up front, behind the horn.

does it start? (you get the picture, after every step test it. Otherwise if there are other problems that arise, you know what you just did to cause it)

3 - Remove all safeties. Pull the center black diode and reverse the polarity (just turn it the other way and re-insert). Check underneath the kickstand and twist the wires together. Tape them up, secure them.

4 - Trace the electrical wiring - use the maintenance manual to troubleshoot the starter. You should be able to trace the juice on both the negative side, and the positive side all the way to the starter.

5 - if you are like me and are impatient, buy two new relays and a bew circuit breaker :

This is what the relay looks like:

http://www.loaded-dicecustoms.com/loaded/images/Cat1%20item9%20Harley%20Starter%20relay%2030_40A.j pg

One is just to the right of the battery (facing as you would ride it) and the other is on the left, often buried by cables).

This is the circuit breaker:


It connects directly to the battery, then the relay. SImply pop it out, replace, attach everything again.

5 - Still having problems, and able to trace the juice with no loss of electrical output, then check the solenoid attached to the starter.

Solenoid and starter:


Solenoid is on the left, starter on the right. This is actually from a sporster, but they use the same starter. Check the connection on the left, it connects directly to the battery. Does it have juice? Hopefully so, if not, trace it back and you will find the problem. Remove the three bolts and gently pull out the plunger and spring.

Looks like:


Make sure it is not obstructed and the bolts allow the plunger to be pushed flush against the hole when being activated. If not, straighten them out. It is tight in there, and you want to be incredibly careful not to screw anything up. Take your time. Also, don't replace your solenoid, they sell solenoid kits with a new plunger and bolts if they all need to be replaced. Other side note, they sell solenoid covers with push buttons so you can bypass the electricl starter. I bought one, they are awesome to have in an emergency.

Looks like:


all you do is turn key (to keep engine running), press the button instead of the starter switch and the bike fires right up without the electrical stuff. This is handy, as at times it takes time to figure out where the short is, and this will keep you up and running just fine while you take your time and figure it out. I also know some that use it all the time instead of the electrical starter. Less hassle, less room for electrical error.

6 - Push start the bike. Put it in second, roll it forward, pop the clutch and press the starter. With suck a light bike it is easy to do. If it fires up, you may have a problem with the starter. But at the very least, you know it isn't the engine. Could be the starter as well. In any case if none of the above fix your problem, do it all over again and make certain you dotted all your i's and crossed your t's. Still nothing, it may be your starter. Refer to your manual, and you will have pull it and test.

07-08-2012, 06:08 PM
After testing the coil the readings from the primary circuit show a 0.8 ohms and it's supposed to be between 0.4-0.6, the secondary circuit is within spec. I couldn't really determine which wire was which on the connector on the harness other then the constant 12v, but the other two wires were showing activity with the ignition on and attempting to start.

With that being said, is this enough evidence to say the coil is bad and go ahead and find another one? Is there a way I can figure out what the other two wires on the coils connected are are supposed to be reading?

Thanks for the input so far, I truly appreciate it.

- The Husband

07-16-2012, 02:38 AM
Solution=replaced coil

I still find it hard to believe a coil with only a 1000 miles on it could go bad, but I replaced it and now it's fine.

07-18-2012, 01:01 PM
Glad you found the issue. Its extremely rare that coils go bad, almost unheard of , but it does happen.

uly luigi
07-18-2012, 01:13 PM
A coil can go bad from arcing/loose plug connections, it cause a large increase in required current, and the OP stated that the plug has fallen off of the plug before, I have never had any luck testing coil packs, something to do with inductance/capacitance and the small amount of voltage that the standard Multi-Meter supplies to the circuit.
Glad you got it fixed tho