View Full Version : Starts ok now but dies with throttle

01-26-2013, 06:38 PM
07 Blast 492cc. Accidentily started bike with the fuel cut off. It ran a bit and died. Since then I couldnt even get it to start. Now I charged battery, added fuel, sprayed strating fluid in intake and it starts and idles forever. But if you give it throttle it dies. We just bought bike and learning tha hard way now. Trying to figure out spark plug access to check that. You can see the boot and top of plug, but not sure if you have to remove gas tank or? if so, how to remove tank? I guess also will try to drain all fuel and start with fresh fuel?

01-26-2013, 07:14 PM
I highly recommend chevron supreme only.

01-26-2013, 07:55 PM
Sounds like you maybe have dislodged some debris in your fuel system when u ran the line dry. Try checkin for proper fuel flow.

01-26-2013, 07:55 PM
Sounds like the float is stuck. But the best members to answer your questions would be ezblast or jetlee.

01-26-2013, 09:25 PM
BTW - the bike is 2007 with only about 3200 miles on it. Well I removed the spark plug and it dont look too bad. Its a HD brand so its likely original so its worth replacing that anyway. I hadn't thought too much about the type/brand of gasoline to use. So you guys run Supreme? I guess I'll go ahead and take gas line loose at the shut of valve, drain it and see what I can figure out from there. I'll play with the throttle at the carb and see if I can tell anything about butterfly valve. The air filter didnt look too bad just rusty like (which seemed odd for a filter)

01-27-2013, 07:04 PM
You're lean.

Don't mess with the butterfly, it's fine.

Replace your carb boot with a new one.

Be sure to snug the bands, but do not over-tighten them.

You may have water in the fuel bowl. Remove your fuel bowl. Spray it out with carb cleaner. Put on anew gasket. Be careful to not touch the float. Re-assemble.

When you look into the carb bore, you should see the needle going down from the slide. It should be going down into a silver jet. That silver jet should be sticking up into the bore about 1/8". Is it there?

01-27-2013, 09:03 PM
Please bear with me being new around carb repair.
1. it seems the rubber boot/double clamp between carb and motor s/b simple enought to replace.
2. Where is the fuel bowl - what it looks like?
3. I remove cover and see air filter and looking inside carb there is a verticle needle or pin in there that sits down into a very short shaft/holder (as air sucks over/thru it all entering carb). is that the needle you mean? Is what I call a shaft/holder on bottom actually a jet?
4. is the double clamp and air box all that holds the carb onto the bike?

01-28-2013, 07:46 AM
1. Yes it's simple, don't overtighten it.
2. Nevermind, for now.
3. That sounds correct. That silver thing is called the "Needle Jet". Never change it, just always ensure it's there.
4. Yes.

01-28-2013, 12:39 PM
Thank you. if a new coupler boot and a new spark plug dont do it then I'll try to drain out gas and go fresh. if that dont work I'll remove carb and get on cleaning stuff

01-29-2013, 10:15 PM
Welcome to the Forum. Study up on your Ride so it is easier for you. If you can go on line OR get with one of the Blast Riders here on the Forum.Maybe even the Library MIGHT have a Buell Blast manual. Get an Exploded view of the Carb area when in Doubt. When Cleaning any area on the Carb., don't use anything that would scar up the metal. Also, using Carb spray is a great way to clean the Carb parts inside OR outside..
Just remove the bottom of the Carb and make sure to watch everything you do in this area. Make sure to have the Gasket first for the Float bowl BeFore you take it apart. Usually when it Idles only you have trash in the jet or Float needle area. Good Fuel and a Fuel Filter after all work is done will keep you up and riding and the Particles out of the Fuel Feed to your Carb.
Take your time. Remember it takes FUELL & Spark, & Good Gas to keep a carb in good shape. After you get the problem Solved. Get yourself a Bottle of SeaFoam Follow the Directions on the Bottle for Adding to your Tank of Fuel. When Buying a new to You Bike always go through the maintenance before counting on all the Time use. Hope it is an easy fix.*Jimi

01-30-2013, 06:27 PM
Txs. I bought a pdf version of the manual online for $8. Yes, Very helpful! So I went ahead and removed the bottom 4 screws and cleaned out the black specs etc from bottom fuel bowl. I went to Harley dealer to buy a new O-ring gasket and 4 new screws cause one had a damaged head and I used a vise grip tool to turn it out. the other 3 were not pretty so bought all new. (Someone had used too small a screwdriver last time). I bought a new spark plug to replace the wrong one that was in there. It had a 6R12 and the manaul calls for a 10R12A. I replaced a rubber fuel line (from carb to shut off valve) that was worn on ends and had random 'chunks' missing (a little scary). I ordered a PCV valve for good luck. and another missing bolt on the LH side triangle mount for air box. Also installed a new OEM Manifold Coupler (carb boot). The guy on ebay who makes a 'superboot' sd he will not have any for a few weeks or so. Anyway so now it runs! I drove it around staying close to home in case I was to be walking it back, but did ok. It still has one hell of a shake at idle and motor sounds like its really working when you give her the gas. Anyway I was only reluctant at first here since I am not much of a "carb guy". I 've worked on cars a lot, but I never could work on my own carb when I had my 70 chevy truck. To do anymore on this HD carb than I just did will require more homework or lessons first.

DrogeN Omen
01-30-2013, 08:50 PM
issue i had on my bike similar issue to this was a fried TP sensor.

01-31-2013, 12:16 PM
was your similar issue meaning accelerating and shaking at idle issues?? I pulled up the page on the TPS sensor. It looks like its next to the coil. talks about a special torx tool for tamper resistant torx screws and a 6-place deutsch electrical connector. DId you do or need anything special to replace the TPS? How did you adjust the TPS afterwards?

DrogeN Omen
01-31-2013, 12:56 PM
i got workshop to do the raplacing and tuning after install. but yeah before hand when it did run it was ruff as guts cause the TP sensor was way out also my Fuel/Air sensor was fried so bike was not getting right air/fuel mix.

the sensors are relativley cheap. and should only take about 2 or 3 hours labour.

01-31-2013, 08:17 PM
ok I'll check on buying those 2 sensors as I'll need them sooner or later if not now. I actually had planned to take to a mechanic to get the settings (timing, idle, TPS) all checked and dialed in anyway, plus get the clutch cable checked/adjusted and figure out why its leaking oil

02-04-2013, 08:25 AM
Fuel/Air sensor was fried so bike was not getting right air/fuel mix.
Also known as an O2 sensor. Blasts don't have one. We're carb'd. Even for those of us that do install them, it's for manual tuning; the carburetor does not read sensor output voltages.

All of that is covered in the manual. It's very easy DIY.