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wally
05-27-2014, 12:57 PM
I just walked around my bike and noticed this:
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh219/freshdes/Bikes/38470709-904C-493A-A9F2-A1E0FB8CF242_zpstl8rhmur.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh219/freshdes/Bikes/7D8AEA9F-04DB-49AA-8546-65FE6877BB0F_zps8u20sksh.jpg

2 or 3 questions:

1. Fixable? Or just replace?
2. Expensive?
3. Do you have to remove the f£@*&cking motor to do it? [mad]

s0dhi
05-27-2014, 01:18 PM
I would replace something like that - but alas I have no such experience.

d_adams
05-27-2014, 01:27 PM
Replace it. No, you don't need to remove the motor or frame, just make sure it's supported. Took me a little longer to replace than I thought it should have, the insert that screws into the frame was a bit of a pita to get out.

http://www.kutterharleyonline.com/harley-davidson/isolator-kit-front-l1501.02a8

ISOLATOR KIT, FRONT - L1501.02A8 L1501.02A8 $67.00
Subtotal $67.00
US Priority Mail® $5.65
Total $72.65

Got it from KutterHD online. Make SURE to check the part number, the one above fits an 03 xb9. I'm pretty sure they're the same, but I've been known to be wrong on occasion. Either way, it's a readily available part.

wally
05-27-2014, 01:30 PM
Thanx guys! Gonna see if my local HD dealer has stock or can get.

My exhaust fabbing buddy said he will weld it up as temp fix. ;)

user_deleted
05-29-2014, 01:10 PM
wally: not criticizing you in any way but are you using your uly to race in local supercross events? LOL
i've never seen so many broken mounts, muffler brackets and muffler straps on one uly in my life.

snrusnak
05-29-2014, 01:30 PM
JMO but if you get it welded then don't worry about replacing it. As long as it's a good weld. You'll know if it's not a good weld because it will break lol.

wally
05-29-2014, 05:05 PM
Showing BMWs what Buells are made of! :D

Exhaust issue is sorted now - No more broken studs or straps. [up]
I have never replace straps when loosening them, but now I will!
Been riding some heavy bumpy, rocky roads when going on adventure trips.

I hope to have it all sorted now! Exhaust dude welded it up for me - not too pretty, but it will work. Will post pic shortly.

Going to order new one, as it will take a while to get here.

wally
05-31-2014, 05:12 PM
Here is the repaired one:
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh219/freshdes/Bikes/c544af4ca3d9d2dae1ac261dfde9df83_zps86f32796.jpg

But I opted to install a new one and keep it for spare.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh219/freshdes/Bikes/d010ce44358b393bda1bc5310607a4c0_zps2a6d4938.jpg

I think old one was trashed.
Rubber had cracks and can see difference when holding side-by-side:
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh219/freshdes/Bikes/5a2160a798d78b09849d12e35009f4c2_zpsd8382409.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh219/freshdes/Bikes/a221126017b2d50b5d46019049c832de_zps53d5e5f4.jpg
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh219/freshdes/Bikes/7c00268e97bc4c87f18860a7cc609e18_zps7dceb8ee.jpg

Negative
05-31-2014, 06:08 PM
Yyyyyea ... that isolator was deadski ... lol good call!! [up]

jriffe108
05-31-2014, 06:27 PM
Make sure to use anti-sieze compound on the bolts

wally
05-31-2014, 07:58 PM
Luckily there was one in the country!

I put thread lock on. Should it rather be anti-seize? When do you know which one to use?

rchuff
05-31-2014, 09:23 PM
you should use anti-seize so you can get it apart if need be . thread lock not good imo. If you tighten it like a man it won't come loose.

Negative
06-01-2014, 04:43 AM
The manual calls for anti seize in this particular application .... torque it to the right specs and you should have no worries man ...

Here's a diagram of where to apply the anti seize and torque specs per the manual ... :)



http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/ae298/yostevo052/frontisolator.png

wally
06-01-2014, 06:12 AM
Cool, torque correctly. Will undo and apply ant-seize. Thanx guys!

Negative
06-01-2014, 01:05 PM
No problemo! ... it's what we're here for ... :)

wally
06-01-2014, 01:07 PM
Undid the bolts, applied anti-seize and retorqued.

Peace of mind and ready to roll!!! [up]