bearing fell out of wheel

[Matteson]

This has happened twice. Went to changw tire and it fell out. Should I machine a sleeve in it? Not knowing how many times the bearing has been changed out. 5 or 6 times is probably the limit. Or buy a new wheel. Im pissed.

[konarider94]

Look for permatex bearing mount or loctite bearing and sleeve retainer. Permatex may be easier to find in auto part stores.

[Matteson]

You really think that will work? I mean, the torque or stress from the belt has spun a press fit bearing out. I mean, I looked into that before. This is my second thread about this. Last time I just bought a used wheel. But 4k miles later the same problem.

[konarider94]

There should be no(very little due to friction in bearing) torque on the outer race. If there enough torque to spin the outer race that means your bearing is junk and probably seized. I do think it will work. I've used it on the inner race of a crank bearing because it slipped over the crank when building engines multiple times. We also use it at work when installing bearings into products used in many industrial markets.

Is there a noticeable gap or is it just a slip fit. If there is a gap you trashed your wheel somehow. If it just slips a little or the press is too light it will work great.

[Matteson]

I can slide it in and out. It drops in when I center it. But it needs to be dead center to drop in.

[Matteson]

Also the bearing seems to be fine. Which is weird.

[konarider94]

I think that retainer will work well

[stamen]

If you need some wheels I have a pair of used ones in decent condition. PM me if you're interested.

[mrlogix]

if this is the second time and it happened in less than 4K miles on two different wheels, I am wondering if there is an alignment issue with the axle bores in the swingarm? The Permatex or Loctite is a very good product. Like Kona said, I have used it in many applications in industrial machinery just fine. Just suspicious for the same result twice on different wheels. Just my .02

[Matteson]

First wheel after 26000k. Bought a used wheel and then it happened again after 4k. How can I assure the bore and alignment are correct?

[konarider94]

I missed that it happened on two different wheels. I would check the axle first to see if its bent. That would be easiest. Rolling it on a flat surface would probably be enough to see something if its bent. How is the condition of the center spacer?

Do you have the 2 or 3 bearing wheel? What year is the bike?

[Matteson]

It was a new spacer. 2 bearing setup.08 1125r.I us d all balls bearings. Am. Sport bike said. That the oem bearings were chosen for a reason. Maybe the bearings failed. They seem to roll fine. I dont know. Dont wanna buy another new wheel for it to happen again

[mrlogix]

the bore alignment is not easy to check. The fact that the first time was at 26K would lead me to look elsewhere. The side to side relationship of bore alignment would be similar results as a bent axle. A piece of Thomson rod of the correct diameter would be a good check. The bore perpendicularity to the bike longitudinal alignment would probably show up with symptoms of uneven tire wear I would think. Do you have access to inner and outer micrometers to check outer race to bearing bore in the wheel diameters? A press fit on this diameter could be anywhere of .0005" to .001-.0015" interference and a slip fit would be 0 clearance to .002". If you are within .002" clearance (bearing bore larger than outer bearing race) the Permatex or Loctite should work fine. Clearances above .002" would require sleeve or different wheel. Kona, sound right to you?

[konarider94]

Yea I doubt its more than .0015" interference for the press fit, thats probably max interference at the max material condition.

I disagree with the .002" clearance limit though. Depending on the retaining compound used it will work up to .015" diametral clearance (this would be too much for my own use but according to the technical data sheets it will work). Even the compound used for close fits will do up to .005" clearance on the diameter which is probably what I would go with for a limit. Im guessing he doesnt have access to micrometers and a snap gage to check the bore.

So i would just put some **** on there and drop the bearing in and let it cure. It will work or it wont. This is still a very strange problem to have. Using the proper torque on the axle I hope. Maybe the swingarm is tweaked but I cant think of a good way to check that.

[Matteson]

Ya I dont know either. The axle is true from what I could tell. I rolled it on the granite tops I have. They should be pretty flush. Hell they are cut with a water jet. So I'm gonna keep the axle. I just bought a new pair of wheels with 13k miles on em. I'm gonna pull the bearings out and put oem bearings in. I'm gonna pay to have them press fit in. I've used thermal methods before. But I'm gonna go by the book this time. Then I'm gonna get the correct socket and torque the axle by the book.
Also, my tire wear was even. The belt is a factory buell belt. I do remember that when I would roll the wheel on the rear stand once a rotation I could feel and hear the rear pads and then nothing until it hit that same spot again. I think maybe it was the rotor. But could that be a sign of something misaligned? Or just the pads hanging in a strange neutral position? I did get in a low slide off the road into the ditch a while back and scuffed the left pod a little and got a little scuffage on the rear swing arm slider. Maybe it's tweaked a hair?

[mrlogix]

possible. The rotor contact would be most likely rotor warpage of a little bit. Best way to check is with a dial indicator. Check rotor, then check wheel rim. will have to mock-up a mag base for the indicator.

Kona- Yeah the bearing retainer products work with larger clearances, but my company being an aviation company is so anal that we are not allowed to use it for greater than .002. It's their money. LOL

[konarider94]

but my company being an aviation company is so anal that we are not allowed to use it for greater than .002. It's their money. LOL
thats a good thing for an aviation company though. [up]



Then I'm gonna get the correct socket and torque the axle by the book.
so you havent been using a torque wrench? If you over tighten the axle it will put too much axial load on the bearings. Could be contributing to this. Also the low side could have tweaked the swingarm. Im just throwing ideas out there but do everything by the book as much as you can to eliminate possibilities.

[mrlogix]

do everything by the book as much as you can to eliminate possibilities.

[up][up]

[konarider94]

any updates?

[Matteson]

New wheels. Harley pressed them in. The pulley side is nearly flush with the hub. When I used thermal methods last time I believe I didn't get it all the way in. Also I believe the all balls bearings were not as quality as the skf bearings. I could feel the difference in my hand. As of now I can only say it was operator error and or crappy bearings.

[Advanguard]

My 2 cents, when my rear bearings shreded out, I got the upgrade 3 bearing rim, axle, and bearings, 2 on the belt side one on the other, 5K later still no problems.

[Matteson]

They didnt shred. It just fell out.