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kingkonggi
03-09-2015, 01:38 AM
Hey Blastards,

I started blasting 2 years ago, picked up a 2000 Blast with about 5k miles. Started, but didn't develop much power, fixed the carburetor issues and drove on until my primary ate itself. I was so intimidated with working on bikes that I eventually paid a shop $850 for a clutch, throwout bearing, primary chain and guides. The bill and the 2 months of not riding motivated me to get over the intimidation.

Mission #1 was a jardine exhaust and rejet. Wow, that was easy, woke the blast up and scared the neighbors. COOL!

So I found a great craigslist victim. A 2001 that didn't even have keys. Owner stated it just needed a drivebelt and a set of keys....I have since learned that sellers will say anything to get your money.

Drive belt changed, noticed the exhaust was cracked, too easy, I still have the original from my 2000 after the Jardine install...but the header bolts had rattled loose at some point and removed enough material from the head to justify replacement.

Head has now been replaced along with throttle cables, all the well nuts for the plastic bits, the racing spark plug is in, exhaust successfully swapped, body is all buffed up and glistening, I am ready to bring this thing to life. I order keys from the local dealer, get a few quarts of oil and drain the old stuff. One of the lines is oozing a milkshake (possibly caramel). Air cooled engine with cooant in the oil!? Nope it is in the primary, and I can see some surface rust in there too. I had noticed the clutch refuses to disengage, but I was hoping I could cure it with proper fluid and a warmup.

The wonderful news is that I am no longer intimidated by working on a bike. The bad news is I am not the Blast masters you gentlemen have developed into.

My question is if you offer any hope that I will not be replacing this clutch? or should I pony up the money and order myself a lesson in wet clutch replacement?

BTW, I now own 2 blasts, 1 XB9SX and am actively seeking an 1125r.

user_deleted
03-09-2015, 02:26 AM
do you know how to properly break the clutch plates free so that you can ride it and see what you have? properly being the operative word here.

kingkonggi
03-09-2015, 02:31 AM
I haven't the foggiest idea, but I like where you are going.

user_deleted
03-09-2015, 02:18 PM
blast basic wet clutch pack like all XB's, sportsters, most jap bikes, etc.
do the below and do NOT let someone talk you into putting front tire against wall, revving up bike, and smashing into 1st gear. someone suggesting that is an idiot.
do this:
start bike and get some heat in the motor
find a long deserted type street....big parking lot...anything lightly travelled. if it has downhill slope all the better.
if flat have a friend help you.
at normal warm idle speed....if downhill slope....get on bike, disengage clutch, paddle briskly with both feet until obtaining fast walking pace, and click into first. if no grade to parking lot or street have friend push you from the rear until the above is obtained.
with clutch DISENGAGED and in 1st, start to moderately blip throttle. don't get nuts....just blip it.
the plates will break free. after they do ride it for a few minutes working the gear box then dump the primary fluid

kingkonggi
03-09-2015, 08:39 PM
Thank you for the guidance!

I was able to get some clutch action in 5th last night while hand rotating the rear wheel. I might be able to simply take the plates apart and reinstall. I will keep this thread updated with progress.

Fender eliminator for the XB9SX is the project for tonight, hopefully Sunday will be available for clutch play.