View Full Version : hawk fuel map

05-10-2015, 11:19 PM
I was wondering if anyone had a fuel map for a 2006 xb12 with hawk slip on, breather reroute, swiss cheese air box mod, and K and N air filter.

I thinks its rich in some areas and lean in others. My plugs only last about 500 miles. It runs like crap at idle and will die when I first crank it up until its warm and sometimes it will back fire and die when I'm riding down the interstate. I'm not really good at tuneing. I read the ecm spy manual but I'm a little iffy on the subject so I just raised the AFV to compensate and I think that made it worst.
My email is cobra661966@yahoo.com
Any help will be much appreciated.
Thank you

05-11-2015, 12:57 AM
For what it's worth, having a stock ECM tune with those modifications wouldn't cause your issues.

What is the history of this bike? Is it recently acquired? Had it been running good and then started misbehaving?

05-11-2015, 03:40 AM
I agree. You've got other issues. Personally, I would find a virgin copy of the EEPROM load for your bike and push that in just so you know you've got a known good ECM profile, with factory fuel maps and timing values, since these should allow your bike run OK with your mods without any other tinkering. Then start troubleshooting from there. You could do some datalogging and analyze your various sensor outputs to see if something looks out of whack. You mentioned that your plugs don't last long. Can you elaborate? What plugs are you running? What do they look like when you pull them? Wet, Black/sooty, white/ashy, etc? Have you checked your breather reroute to ensure it's venting properly? Does your reroute have a filter on it and is it clean?

05-11-2015, 04:04 AM
I'm the second owner and it ran pretty good at first. I put the hawk mufller on. It still ran good it just felt like it lost some low end torque. Then I did the swiss cheese mod to the intake and put a K and N filter in and thats about when it started. I can't remember if was immediately or very soon after but it was close. I've been having problems out of it for years I just don't have the time I would like to dedicate to it because I'm in EET school right now. Anyways, It progressively got worst. At first it would only cut off randomly every now and then. Next, it would do it started doing it every ride at which point it became almost impossible to recrank.
So I started checking wires and connections. I wiggled the one on the ECM and found the engine would shut off. I also tried it with the key just turned forward and I could hear the fuel pump shut off. I took it to a HD mechanic and he said I had a broken wire that he fixed. I road it a couple hundred miles since then.
But the last time I rode it I was riding down the interstate and it started bucking a little bit and let out one huge backfire and shut off. It did, however, start right back up a few seconds later.
But over this entire time of me riding it I still always have to give it gas when I first start it and it usually will backfire and shut off. But now it starts back up when before the mechanic fixed it u would have to wiggle the wiring harness around.
Last time I did the TPS reset I left the idle a little low. I don't know if that is the problem. I did set it to the correct voltage though. I just did not turn it up higher once the engine was warmed. But that still wouldn't explain why the problem started before the reset.

I'll have to double check my plugs again tomorrow. But I know they were not white. They were a little black but I don't think they were wet but I can confirm this for sure tomorrow morning. The first set that went bad were the stock champion plugs. Next I put platinum NGK and now I'm running the plain copper NGK.

Oh and the bike only has a little over 10,000 miles.

Oh, and I looked at the crank position sensor on a oscillating scope and it seems to responding normal on the sensor side.

05-11-2015, 01:23 PM
Try the following:
- Load up a bone-stock EEPROM load for your model/year.
- Perform TPS reset. Search the board for my posts or the factory manual regarding the proper procedure. Don't stop at "zero" when backing out your idle screw. You have to back it out until the degree reading stops decreasing, snap the throttle to eliminate any cable tension, then back it out an additional turn... Then zero it. Set the degree to about 5.2 degrees, start the bike. Let it come to full temp or take it for a short ride and then set the final idle speed.
- The ECM has a cold start enrichment (like a choke while the engine comes up to temp), which temporarily richens up the AFR and typically makes the engine run at a slightly higher RPM while the bike warms up. If you mistakenly set your idle during this period, the idle speed could end up being too low when the enrichment turns off. This will make it hard to start and idle in general. Your twisting the throttle to add fuel during starting makes me think a glitched TPS reset and/or idle adjustment may be one of your problems. Twisting the throttle during starting when cold start enrichment is already active will result in an extremely rich AFR during starting and only make the symptoms worse. This is why I recommend starting with a stock EEPROM load and following the TPS instructions precisely.
- Look at your intake air temp (IAT) and engine temp sensors in ECMSPY and look for signs that they are working properly.

If the above are done and the temp sensors are working, I would suspect a possible pinch somewhere in the wiring harness, or a bad crank position sensor (CPS) (even though you say you checked it with an o-scope). I've seen two Buells with a bad CPS that exhibited the exact symptoms you're having. But if you don't do the TPS reset and idle adjust correctly to begin with, it will make further troubleshooting useless, and you'll end up chasing your tail and throwing money at it swapping parts.

05-11-2015, 02:33 PM
Also, just so you know... Most folks rock the Hawk and similar exhausts for the sound, not for increased performance. I'm not saying the Hawk doesn't enhance performance (I don't own one), but most exhausts that are louder than stock and in that price range typically reduce bottom end torque/grunt. If you've got troublesome or annoying flat spots somewhere after doing intake/exhaust mods, you can datalog and tune or put in on a dyno to try and target those areas and make them smoother, but you're unlikely to recover the bottom end torque on a louder, less restrictive exhaust like the Hawk, D&D, Jardine, etc. It's a matter of physics and flow dynamics (Dean Adams or others experienced in exhaust fabrication can probably explain it much better than I could ever attempt to).

My point is that if you reload your ECM with the factory profile, perform your TPS zero and idle adjust correctly and have a healthy bike with no air/fuel/electrical issues, your XB should run fine with the Hawk and the minor intake mods you have. You can tune and tweak for smoothness as desired/required, but you should expect the possibility of a slight reduction in your bottom end torque and simple tuning alone isn't likely to restore it.