PDA

View Full Version : I think Buelltooth is killing my battery?



adamtroymac
09-17-2016, 02:40 PM
Hooked up Buelltooth a few days ago and the next morning the battery was dead. I assumed it was because I was using the software a bit and started the bike a few times that evening without riding to recharge the battery. I recharged the battery to full and rode to work. Then the bike sat for a day when I took the car to work. The morning after, the battery was so dead it won't recharge or even illuminate the clock. I tested the main fuse and everything seems fine.

Did Buelltooth drain my batter to flat-dead in one day?

Chicknstripn
09-17-2016, 03:15 PM
Does your modual power up without the key on? You might have a short in your diagnostic port wiring if it does.
Or you my have a short somewhere else draining your battery.
Look up how to test for battery drain or something like that in the search box.
I'm not quite sure how to do it, but if you have a multi meter on your batter you can see the battery voltage dropping ever so slightly. Start pulling fuses. When you see the battery drain stop, check what fuse you pulled. You're now one step closer to finding the culprit.
That's not the exact process but it gives you a rough idea of what you need to do.

And I noticed you've posted a few threads about various electrical modifications you've made to your bike.
This battery drain issue happen before or after those mods?

Cooter
09-17-2016, 03:42 PM
The short answer is no.

With the bike off, is there a light on the Buelltooth?

Chicken is right, there seems to be a drain but you didn't include enough info. Here's how you test for a battery drain.

Charge the battery (NOT a maintainer or trickle charger, charge it FULLY with a BATTERY CHARGER)
Key Off.
Disconnect the battery negative.
Attach a DVOM (set on AMPS) in series to the battery (-) post and the cable.
If you have a reading above 200 mA (opinions vary) then you have a draw to find. If your reading is less then you do not have a draw.
If the meter reads above 200 mA start by removing and replacing one fuse at a time. When the meter reading drops below 200 mA you have found the circuit the draw is on.
Post back here what you find.

Chicknstripn
09-17-2016, 06:04 PM
Thanks for the back up Cooter. I was being lazy and didn't feel like looking up the test process. It's the norm these days.
Thank you for clarifying the steps on how to test for a battery drain!
Much appreciated.
I been schooled

adamtroymac
09-17-2016, 07:43 PM
Thanks guys, trying to narrow it down now. ☺

adamtroymac
09-17-2016, 08:02 PM
OK, battery appears to be charging now. All the fuses are good, including the main fuse. How do I test the regulator?

adamtroymac
09-17-2016, 08:07 PM
Also, how can I tell if there are dead cells in the battery? It's at 12.4 volts now. Would the voltage be lower if there are dead cells or would it just die quicker?

mrlogix
09-17-2016, 08:13 PM
lower if actually has DEAD cells. They make a hydrometer to test the specific gravity of each cells electrolyte level to find a weak cell. Cost a few bucks at automotive stores.

Outlaw
09-17-2016, 08:40 PM
Not for an AGM battery......

mrlogix
09-17-2016, 11:32 PM
Not for an AGM battery......

yes, you are correct, Not for an AGM battery. (palm to forhead moment) If you take the battery to AutoZone they can do a carbon pile resistor test which puts a known load on a fully charged battery for a specific amount of time and measures the voltage drop.

Outlaw
09-18-2016, 12:58 PM
󾓦👍