TPS reset every couple of days

[jebber127]

07 XB12R. Using ecmspy do a TPS reset. The bike runs really nicely for about 100 miles. Then it starts sputtering and hiccupping and jerking with sready throttle between 2500 and 3000 rpms.

Another TPS reset fixes it for a little while.

Anyone have any thoughts on what I can do to resolve this?

[user_deleted]

2007? ecmspy. tps reset to 5.1-5.5.........100 miles later with issues....what then is your tps value? changing dramatically? stored trouble code? sure sounds like faulty TPS unit. Cole.....James....ecm gurus chime in. am i correct on this?

[Chicknstripn]

John, I was going to suggest the same thing. Does sound like the TPS unit is having issues. I would check the grounds, TPS connector and battery connection to make sure nothing else is causing issues.

Jebber- any other issues/symptoms when you lose the good TPS? You'll have a hard time maintaining a proper idle for a good TPS reset if your bike has an intake leak.

Good luck

[jebber127]

Hey all...thanks for responding so quickly. I went out this morning and plugged in. Sunday, I set TPS at 5.2 and was at voltage .79. Today it was at 4.6 and .79. I reset this morning to 5.5. Runs nicely now....for a while

Idle is quirky if left alone. It is somewhere between 1100-1350 bouncing around between those numbers.

[user_deleted]

Hey all...thanks for responding so quickly. I went out this morning and plugged in. Sunday, I set TPS at 5.2 and was at voltage .79. Today it was at 4.6 and .79. I reset this morning to 5.5. Runs nicely now....for a while

Idle is quirky if left alone. It is somewhere between 1100-1350 bouncing around between those numbers.
still sounds like a faulty tps unit to me. a tps unit that will not "stay put" or hold its set value is typically going bad. your idle for your 2007 is too high. i prefer an even 1000rpm when warm. when a 2007 and earlier year starts to show a warm idle speed of 1350 or more it will typically result in a hanging high idle that gets progressively worse. that's why i prefer an even 1000rpm. no hanging high idle issues and nice rhythmic cadence at idle.

[AZmidget91]

What is your AFV? Are you resetting the AFV as well? I'm going to guess it's not the tps sensor. I would check intake seals, its easy and fast to do. Spray carb cleaner, or some sort of flammable spray towards the intake seals, from under the frame, and see if the RPM changes any.

[njloco]

Good to see you back up and answering posts !

[AZmidget91]

Good to see you back up and answering posts !

Thanks, been off work all week, mostly sleeping, but getting bored.

[jebber127]

My previous resets, I've done a quick ride to get it warmed up and then come back and set the idle to 1050 or so and I agree, that seems to be the sweet spot usually. This time around, I left the idle alone just to see what happens...it's not great.

[jebber127]

I have not reset the AFV. I'll check the intake seals this weekend...thanks for the suggestion.

[jebber127]

Eventually got to spraying some WD40 into the intake flange. Assuming I did it right, heard no RPM change. Had my stepson help verify to get two sets of eyes and ears.

[jimijeans]

Most Likely you will need a new TPS sensor/ part. with new Bolts. DO Not use Stainless Bolts from Hardware Stores. Only Orignal Equiptment, for this repair.
Call up Lance in ST. Paul /HD . He has an E-bay store as well. I have bought many Parts for Many Buells from him.
It is better than Any HD around cause most of Them will say they will farm it out to V-twin or others . That would cost you over 140. bucks with Shipping.
This Marine will look till the well is dry before paying that if at all possible. The Throttle Position Switch or part etc.. is a BMW part anyway. I have been gone for a bit Buellers Glad to make it Home.Keep your Weapons clean. :eagerness: Ride Safe.

[lowkey]

Eventually got to spraying some WD40 into the intake flange. Assuming I did it right, heard no RPM change. Had my stepson help verify to get two sets of eyes and ears.

Did you spray down the snorkel into the throttle body? If so that is wrong, you want to have the bike up to temp and spray heavily at each cylinder where the intake manifold is mated to them and from both sides of the engine. I'd use brake clean with the red straw to get as direct as possible to the mating surface, with brake clean you won't be making a mess so spray away at them for idle change.


Try this before changing the TPS sensor out, I came across this on BadWeb and have never come across it on this site. IMO this sounds like the proper way to fully do a "TPS reset", maybe not every time but good to do and know for sure that you have it dialed in before assuming the worst...

"Remember to save your starting point data, just in case. I would also recommend a solid TPS setting where your TPS sensor is preloaded to the throttle plate shaft.

Pasting info here to be helpful, as this is very important for your start point.

At idle, the throttle body plate bounces slightly due to the pulsations from the opening and closing of the intake valves.

It is important to eliminate any play between the throttle plate and the TPS.

Here is how to do it:

Guys, Here is the deal on the solid TPS reset.

Think of the TPS as a spring loaded pot. It sends a voltage signal to the ECM and it adds fuel accordingly. Very simple really. The entire process is actually based on the starting point of the TPS in relation to the throttle plate. The TPS has two plastic index tabs that must line up with the tabs on the throttle plate shaft. It seems most TPS sensors are installed straight up from the factory and this is ok for a while. After the bike is broken in, these tabs get a small amount of wear on them and they are no longer properly timed with the true zero of the throttle plate. This is when everyone runs to the stealer to get their TPS reset. It is the combination of wear on the TPS tabs, and lack of technical proficiency of the techs that seem to always provide mixed results.

In order to be certain you have a true zero try the following:

With your air box assembly and base off, the TPS sensor is right on top of the throttle body. If your TPS has two orange dots, you have the new revision with the vertical alignment tabs. This procedure applies to the old style as well. Adjust both throttle cables so sufficient slack is available. Back off idle adjustment cable until the throttle plate will snap shut without touching the idle cable stop. With a scribe, mark the TPS position by scratching a single line from the throttle body to the TPS. This will serve as a reference point just in case. With a 7mm open end wrench, remove the two TPS mounting bolts and remove the TPS from the throttle body. Clean the debris from the back of the TPS and the side of the throttle body. Apply a small amount of high temp silicone grease to the tabs on the TPS to minimize wear in the future. Replace the TPS but leave the mounting bolts slightly loose and rotate the TPS full left (counterclockwise). Insure the throttle plate is totally closed, then rotate the TPS until you feel the spring make contact with the alignment tabs on the throttle plate. Rotate the TPS slightly clockwise to preload the mechanical zero position and secure mounting bolts. Most of you will notice that according to your reference marks, your new position is just slightly right of the old position. Now your TPS and throttle plate are truly aligned, without play. Connect all wiring and perform a TPS reset, just like the manual states.
Now you have a solid TPS zero.

Ride and feel the difference. I have no more sneezing or lean like surging."
Taken from this thread http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/323610.html?1197645760

Properly "zeroing" the TPS could stop the TPS voltage creep OR the TPS could be physically creeping its "clock" angle do to loose mounting bolts and throttle plate movement after that 100 miles.

Would be interesting to scribe it and try to clock the TPS with your fingers to see for a change, which would be the mounting bolts.

Hopefully more people will try this before running out and replacing the TPS. If you think about it, when replacing the TPS it is unworn so you are getting that zero point set when swapping it in whereas you could clock the original one in place to zero it and solve the problem. Keep in mind they DO go bad but this would (most likely) show up as an un-linear voltage reading correlating to throttle input.

[Simplymichaeljr]

Great info lowkey. I will give it a go and report results.