VR Shell need to be Grounded?

[Tbone]

I think this has been asked already but can't remember the answer and I tried to search, I'm at work and my manual is at home. 2009 Uly XB12X.
Blew a headlight out on my commute and when removing the bulb noticed my VR was missing one mounting screw and was dangling by the other.
Not sure if the extra vibration or the lack of grounding caused the blown headlight? No other symptoms and want to keep it that way.

[user_deleted]

I think this has been asked already but can't remember the answer and I tried to search, I'm at work and my manual is at home. 2009 Uly XB12X.
Blew a headlight out on my commute and when removing the bulb noticed my VR was missing one mounting screw and was dangling by the other.
Not sure if the extra vibration or the lack of grounding caused the blown headlight? No other symptoms and want to keep it that way.
it does not have to be gounded to function properly but i personally always insure a good ground between the VR assembly and the bolt to the mounting bracket. old school thinking has always been that a good ground eliminates any chance of static discharge and reverse negative current flowing up the harnesses to the VR itself.

[Cooter]

Totally^^^ Grounding the chassis of the VR shouldn't be necessary, but you do want it bolted to something metal to act as an additional heat-sink.

[TPEHAK]

The V-bracket is painted, there is no continuity between VR body and ground. If you need to ground it you have to rub off the V-bracket paint and fuel tank paint in the contact spots. I would recommend you to keep the paint job.

[Tbone]

Thanks. Bolted down the VR, put a new headlight bulb, checked the voltage with motor running at several different RPMS it was 14.32 volts. Commuted to work and have a burnt out headlight again? Intermittent fault, do I dare add another head light lamp? My high beam is running ok, maybe bad bulb?

[user_deleted]

Thanks. Bolted down the VR, put a new headlight bulb, checked the voltage with motor running at several different RPMS it was 14.32 volts. Commuted to work and have a burnt out headlight again? Intermittent fault, do I dare add another head light lamp? My high beam is running ok, maybe bad bulb?
tbone: ulysses....correct? with bike on sidestand kneel down at front left and look up at both the bottom triple clamp and steering neck. you'll find the 4-wire ground cluster. don't just "look at it" for thorough inspection....remove the fastening hardware and check the wires for where they attach not only to the eyelets but the eyelets themselves. all must be pristine and secure. have seen many instances where those grounds have issues and cause oddities in the lights, the gauge cluster performance and other maladies including volt surges to the orange/yellow/white wires that power your headlights.

[Tbone]

Yes 09 Uly.
AHwww Dang, I hate that clusterF@$k of wires under there. Will un-bolt the shield at the neck, cutaway all the electrical tape, find the ground wires, look for broken ones again. Last time it was the turn signals, now the head lights, know this drill too well.... I guess the resistance increase of a weak ground across the head light causes the VR to jump up the wattage and as the ground reconnects then bam it surges and headlight is toast? My opinion the wiring harness should have been split to separate bundles for power and ground could have been a main cable all the way to the dash and distributed there. What a PIA!

[njloco]

That was my headlight problem, I took the bolt out cleaned the wire connections and the grounding spot all off, sprayed a little bit of roller chain lube on everything and, no more problem, I then did all of the other grounds. Haven't had a problem since.

[Tbone]

Thanks njloco, hopefully this will be as easy like that, last time I was in there there was 3 broken wires, so hopefully that is not the case. Thanks again.

[Tbone]

Ok, multi-metered out the high beam, low beam, courtesy light, ground wires, to each plug and everything seems fine. Put it all back together hooked a meter to it and ran the motor, the voltage jumped from 14.32 to +18 v and fried the headlamp, the voltage dropped down to 14.32 so I left it running to see if it would do it again. After several minutes the motor warmed up and when the fan kicked in it jumped back up to 18 volts again. I am calling the VR going bad, so looking for a replacement VR. I will start at HD and see if they have one in stock and how much? $131 includes shipping from St. Louis by Friday from HD.

[Tbone]

Ok, I have tested the stator and no shorts to ground with ~ .3 ohms between the terminals. Also Tested > 50V ac at about 2000 rpms. I then replaced the VR and it is running very well, 14.45V DC at the battery at most rpms. Lights are a lot brighter, motor runs better, power port, cooling fan, startor, etc.. everything is running better. Calling it fixed. Also when replacing the headlight bulb I also replaced the little bulb in between the low and how beams with a white led which gives a brighter silhouette on both lights.

[user_deleted]

^^^^^yes....classic faulty VR voltage burst. be sure to purchase correct one for your 09. 08-10 models single phase charging systems so single phase VR required. price you mentioned about the going rate for your 2009 uly VR NIB.

[Tbone]

Yes, thought I might have needed a stator as well, but tested and working great. I have been adding 2 to 4 oz's of M1 75w-90 gear oil to M1 20w-50 in the primary for about the last 15 K miles. They, being google searches, say the stator does not like gear oil and common cause of failure? I am addicted to gear oil now, so glad it is holding up with just a few oz's. Also motivated me to get into the wiring and do a little grooming under the yokes and I added a USB power port to the handlebar next to the phone mount. I have 44K miles on my Uly and think the VR was probably due to be changed, glad it was easy to order and only a few days to get shipped from St. Louis. The biggest thing I notice is how bright the lights and headlight is now. I think I am good for another for 40K miles.