3 bearing wheel conversion issues

[bukwylde87]

I need help! I have an 08 ULY and decided to do the 3 bearing conversion. I bought the new wheel and the axle kit and had The dealer install the bearings and spacer before I picked it up. When I put the wheel on it was super stiff, it didn't spin easily and the belt was super tight. I then attempted to install the break caliper ( I removed it from the swing arm with the 2 big bolts) that it didn't fit and that the caliper mounts were actually hitting the disk! Something is not right. Is it possible the new spacer is too short? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[user_deleted]

it's a very straight-forward conversion but you need to determine if it's a bearing installation defect or incorrect spacer installation. IMPORTANT NOTE: you are referring to the hub spacer tube which is #7 in schematic. I AM REFERRING TO the wheel dust seal spacer which is #1 in schematic.
here's how:
1-get rear wheel off the ground. could care less how it's done but do it. remove axle pinch bolt.....loosen axle exactly 21 turns...slide belt off wheel pulley. depending on belt age you might also have to remove belt tensioner assembly. remove brake caliper.
2-with belt removed now tighten axle to to 40ft.lbs torque.....loosen 2 full turns....retorque to 50ft.lbs. do NOT install pinch bolt.
3- NOW SPIN WHEEL. it should spin freely in both directions with no rough spots or noise of any sort. if it doesn't stop right there, remove it and take back to dealer. bearings and spacer clearly not installed correctly.
4-if wheel spins freely now but caliper doesn't line up to default position on rotor the wheel assembly is NOT "centered" correctly....meaning spacer on wrong side of hub OR entirely missing.
that's the best i can tell you without actually seeing it in person. see schematic to determine what's going on. #1 in schematic likely culprit. is it even installed and if so is it on the correct side of hub??????
9753

[bukwylde87]

Item 1 is installed. My 2008 manual suggested a lower initial torque of 25 ft.lbs but I did a final torque of 50 ft.lbs and with the caliper off it was VERY difficult to spin the wheel.

[user_deleted]

Item 1 is installed. My 2008 manual suggested a lower initial torque of 25 ft.lbs but I did a final torque of 50 ft.lbs and with the caliper off it was VERY difficult to spin the wheel.

with belt removed? if so then here's the problem: the swingarm/axle/inner left and right races act as a fixture. the entire wheel rotates around that fixture. the axle torqued to spec locks the swingarm against the left and right inner races allowing the wheel to rotate freely. if it does NOT then the bearings were either incorrectly installed or the inner spacer tube is out of spec...or both. what does the dealer who installed the tube and bearings say about this??????

[bukwylde87]

I missed the part where you suggested doing this with the belt off, all my initial testing was done with the belt on. When I get home today I will attempt with the belt off. But one thing is still confusing, I can understand the belt not allowing the wheel to spin freely but how would the belt would prevent me from being able to mount the caliper? As of right now the dealer does not know that there is a problem, I wanted to do some of my own troubleshooting before contact them. I live in Connecticut and I ordered from St. Paul Harley in Minnesota.

[Cooter]

The 3 bearing wheels need #1, that makes sense.

Is it only Uly wheels that have #2, and #8? I'm not familiar with Uly's and none of my Lightnings have had those.

Maybe theres some incompatibility with the spacer part number they used and the dust seals (#2,#8)? I'm (totally guessing) that a spacer for a lightning (that uses no dust seals) would be slightly wider? But only if the dust seals use the ID of the axle if they go around the OD of the spacer or the shouldered portion of the axle then nevermind....

[bukwylde87]

In 2010 Buell went to a 3 bearing set up across the xb product line. Prior to 2010 the would have 2 bearings and no dust covers.

[user_deleted]

how would the belt would prevent me from being able to mount the caliper?
one has nothing to do with the other. clearly your entire wheel assembly is "off center". and i told you what the causes of this could and would be.


Is it only Uly wheels that have #2, and #8? I'm not familiar with Uly's and none of my Lightnings have had those.

all 3 bearing wheel assemblies have the L&R dust/grease seals shaughn.

I bought the new wheel and the axle kit and had The dealer install the bearings and spacer before I picked it up
if schematic part # 1 properly installed then dealer missed something during this procedure.

[bukwylde87]

Thanks Lunatic. I'm pretty sure something is wrong with the bearing install. I'll go home and try everything one more time before I complain.

[Cooter]

Oh! The dust seals are only on the 3 bearing wheels? I thought it was a Uly thing. Ok cool, and never mind. haha.

10 bearings, 2 belts and 5 tires later, you'd think I'd know!

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/908/28118006408_0231c92112_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JQG8FW)eTUG5e3tTFG6dq6Pm+0CnA (https://flic.kr/p/JQG8FW) by Cooter! (https://www.flickr.com/photos/77190879@N05/), on Flickr

[bukwylde87]

Hey Lunatic. The dealership I bought from helped me figure out that I have had the spacer bushing on the wrong side. BUT the reason I did so was because 1) that's the way it showed up out of the box and 2) it fits snug I a recess on the pulley side but just sits loose on top of the bearing on the disk side. Is this correct?

9778

[Cooter]

Yes. It absolutely fits on the disk side. Take a look at the diagram Lunatic gave you in post #2.

It also explains why the disk wasn't lined up. Install it that way, but be sure to follow the manuals instructions on how to properly torque the rear axle twice.

[bukwylde87]

I agree it goes on the disk sideand that is why nothing fit correctly but that's not my question. I want to know if the spacer is just supposed to be loose and sit on top of the bearing. I explained my torquing procedure earlier in the thread. Yes I did it twice.

[user_deleted]

I want to know if the spacer is just supposed to be loose and sit on top of the bearing.

yes

[cknapp]

Oh! The dust seals are only on the 3 bearing wheels? I thought it was a Uly thing. Ok cool, and never mind. haha.

10 bearings, 2 belts and 5 tires later, you'd think I'd know!

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/908/28118006408_0231c92112_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JQG8FW)eTUG5e3tTFG6dq6Pm+0CnA (https://flic.kr/p/JQG8FW) by Cooter! (https://www.flickr.com/photos/77190879@N05/), on Flickr

Off subject, but are those stands a universal bike stand of some kind (they look adjustable for swing arm width)? Where do you buy these?

And how many mile intervals are you having to replace bearings?

[Cooter]

They are paddock stands. Universal, but there are some made that aren't wide enough so you might have to stretch them wider to fit a Buell.

IIRC the manual says every 25k? I replace mine every time I put on new tires because when they fail, they do so catastrophically and its $25 of insurance.

[cknapp]

They are paddock stands. Universal, but there are some made that aren't wide enough so you might have to stretch them wider to fit a Buell.

IIRC the manual says every 25k? I replace mine every time I put on new tires because when they fail, they do so catastrophically and its $25 of insurance.

Are they difficult to replace on your own or do you just follow the manual? You don't need a press to press them in do you?

[Cooter]

No press.
I have my cheats, but the best way is a blind bearing puller ($40-ish), and to carefully tap the new one in with a bearing race tool or use the old bearing as a the thing to hit. Do NOT hammer directly on the new bearing. Takes less than 5 mins.

While they are out, measure the bearing spacer. accurately. It's unreal how easily they get squished undersize and then will side load the ball bearings for pre-mature failure. Why the heck they aren't tapered roller bearings, I'll never know.

[optomist]

All,

I can definitely testify that Coot is a master of road side bearing repairs--he always has the correct tools for the job.

BTW, my two bearing '09 Uly wheel had a sloppy bearing housing. I changed out the wheel to a 3 bearing one. In the process, noticed that the new wheel says "made in China". It came from St Paul .....

Well, it goes around and holds air so so far(5000 miles) so good.

Opto

[cknapp]

Would it be worth just buying a new bearing spacer when I redo the bearings then?



So you when you tap in the bearings, do you just make sure it looks visibly flush? Or do they bottom out on a lip inside the hub?

[Cooter]

That depends on what you call "proper tools" LOL. How ya doin' Opto? I'll be riding up the whole west coast in late August, you coming down?

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4374/36896027965_8ca8aa172c_c.jpg

The spacer is fine unless it gets overtorqued. Just like drain plugs, people get crazy about axles, so check the length against the manual spec.

Tap them in to the lip. You'll hear the change in tone when they are seated, no need to Hulk smash.
When you tighten the axle, tighten to 25ft/lbs, rotate the wheel a bit, loosen two turns, and re-tighten to 48 ft/lbs. Don't forget the locking bolt:)

[optomist]

Coot,

Doing well, thanks. Decided to lay low for a while and tend to business. For sure we will be riding together come August.

Pardon for having a joke at your expense. There are proper tools and then there is "field expedient" ha ha. Actually, pretty impressive that you pulled that one off. Even more impressive you made the last 100 miles with those funky bearings. Do you still have that Indufast bearing number?

I have an urge to re-visit the Ancient Bristle cone forest near Lone Pine(9200 ft ). I might tie that in with coming back up the Coast with you. When do we get the pie?

Opto

[Cooter]

Mmmm, Marion Berry pie from that little lodge at Crater Lake. I'll take one please, and one to go!