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NOMORE4s4ME
06-29-2009, 01:24 PM
I've ordered some new rubber, and I'm planning on taking the tires into a shop to have them swapped. Any tricks or tips on how to take the rear off? How do I release the tension on the belt? And how do I get the wheel back on with tension on the belt? Any help would be great, Thanks.

Buellysses
06-29-2009, 01:47 PM
There really isn't a whole lot of tension on the belt, so you shouldn't have to worry about that too much. Basically just loosen the bolt underneath the swingarm on the left side, then take the tool you got in your kit and and a good sized impact gun or breaker bar and go nuts.

If you don't have a wheel stand to support the rear just jack the bike up. Just make sure it's stable. I've heard of a couple guys hanging the bike from a rafter in the garage with a couple ratchet straps too...

Take a look at the service manual link up top, get the manual from there. It may not be exactly for your bike, but it will give you the general idea.

xtremelow
06-29-2009, 01:52 PM
Just simply loosen the axle locking bolt on the bottom right side of the swing arm and back off the axle using tuebaxle removal tool in your little tool kit along with a socket and what not. As you are backing it off, continue to feel the belt for it to lose tension then pull the belt off. The axle will be almost all the way out once this happens.

To reinstall just start the axle threads and wrap the belt around the front pulley, and over the tensioner, then begin as many of the belt teeth as you can on the back pulley an simply turn the tire counterclockwise with the bike in nuetral to get the wot to seat all the way around the rear pulley. Make sure to watch the belt over yw tensioner it may want to pop off just use a little muscle to hold it from doing so and you will be all set.

NOMORE4s4ME
06-29-2009, 03:04 PM
Thanks for the tips. I have front and rear wheel stands so I'll be able to support the bike. "Tube Axle Removal tool"....so thats what that funny lookin thing is in the tool kit. I had no idea what that thing was, and am apparently way too lazy to look it up. Thanks for the info guys.

NOMORE4s4ME
07-07-2009, 12:49 PM
Ok so I took my wheel off last night. Took a bit of pulling, but I finally got the belt off and then off came the wheel. Just a question while I'm waiting for my tire to be finished. Should I grease any part of the Axle before I reinstall?

NOMORE4s4ME
07-07-2009, 08:21 PM
I'll be putting my wheel on in the next hour. An response to the grease question?

Trill
07-07-2009, 09:22 PM
The manual states to cover the axle in anti-sieze. I covered the whole thing including threads and shaft, even the big part on the wrench end.

And make sure to torque the axle and pinchbolt to manual spec. overtorque will lead to premature wheel bearing failure

NOMORE4s4ME
07-09-2009, 06:28 PM
I'm sure I over torqued it at first. But before I did any riding I went out and bought a torque wrench and some anti-sieze and went back and did it properly.

Question though. Why did I torque it to 27 lbs, then back it off two full turns, then retighten to 52 lbs? What does that do?

Stevenc150
07-09-2009, 08:08 PM
The 27 lb. torque is to make sure it's not in a bind, back off to let it "settle" then you're good to do the 52. At least, that's what why we do it at work on our more precision fit bearings on shafts.

NOMORE4s4ME
07-09-2009, 08:43 PM
interesting. thanks

shine69
08-27-2009, 05:37 AM
Anyone have a picture of the tool? I bought my bike second hand and don't seem to have tools for it ad want to remove the wheels for powercoating. One bike shop wanted to charge me $250 to take the wheels and tyres off and then refit them so i think i might try it myself.

Thanks

Trill
08-27-2009, 06:27 AM
Its a giant Hex with a retaining clip in the middle of it to prevent tool to slip into axle. Can't find a pic sorry.

fahren
08-30-2009, 03:42 PM
NoMore4's,
Really important that you paid close attention to the proper torquing. Over-torquing can (will) cause your wheel bearings to go bad. They will go bad eventually anyway, and it's a good idea to check them regularly (tire changes). But no use killing them prematurely with too much torque. Well done!

Artur
09-11-2009, 07:57 PM
To remove and reinstall the real wheel without fighting with the belt tension I usually remove the belt tensioner. This provides some extra clearance.

lighting
10-01-2009, 10:42 PM
No need to remove the tensioner, just loose the pinch bolts and back the axle out, the belt will get loose by itself without binding. Make sure you reinstall in reverse order and torque to the proper specs in your manual. Done it like this 3 times in my bike without any issues, good luck..........By the way, I strapped the front of the bike into a mc wheel chuck and used a jack under the muffler(marked jack points)

konarider94
10-02-2009, 01:52 PM
as far as a tool is concerned I would just cut a small piece off of some 7/8" hex stock. go to a local machine shop or steel yard and ask them for a 1.5"-2" long piece. I didnt bother putting the clip in the middle of mine and it did slide in once but i just used my magnet to get it out. After that i was just careful. I was able to get the material free from my university. One mans scrap is another mans treasure.

xb1339s
07-24-2010, 03:00 PM
i take the tensioner pulley off,(just one bolt) so much easier than trying to force the belt on esspecially with both belt guards on