Battery shows 13.8v. All fuses good. Pull in the clutch, hit the button, nothing. Is this a common occurrence? It ruined my today's track day. A nice bottle of Whiskey to the person who can figure this out.
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Battery shows 13.8v. All fuses good. Pull in the clutch, hit the button, nothing. Is this a common occurrence? It ruined my today's track day. A nice bottle of Whiskey to the person who can figure this out.
Old story but, did check and clean your grounds lately ?
I have not. I'll get on that in the am. I realize voltmeter reading doesn't mean alot. All I hear is a faint click.
If you are even just fairly decent with that voltmeter, it's an easy problem to solve:up:
In the interest of saving a Track Day immediately I have some guesses for you.
The red run switch (that should be "on" haha) is prone to corrosion. So is the relay in the fuse box. I'd start by wiggling the switch really well, and pulling out the relay and swapping it with another in the fuse box (they are the same) wiggling the relay could also break through some corrosion as well.
Other parts in that system are the kickstand switch (if you bike has one) and the clutch switch (tiny 2 prong switch at the base of the lever. Wiggle those wires and make sure they're connected.
If all that fails, you can always trick the starter to cranking.
These tricks bypass all the safeties, so make SURE you're in neutral etc...
1) The starter has ONE big wire on it (you could use a big wire from the battery (+) to crank it.
2) The solenoid that's mounted on it has 2 BIG wires and one small one. One of the big wires is directly from the battery, one big wire is to the starter. You can use a BIG wire to jump the two big wires together.
3) You can jump the Big battery wire from either the battery or the solenoid to the small wire on the starter solenoid with a small wire and it will crank also.
Hope that helps. When you get to the garage you can diagnose it properly :)
Oh, and if none of that works, you could easily have a loose or corroded battery terminal. Use that voltmeter on the wire terminal end at the battery, not the battery lug or screw, and hit the starter. If the voltage drops to nothing, clean them:)
She's running. Theres a green wire connector just above the countershaft pulley that was disconnected. Aw shoot moment as I lost out on a fine day ate the track but, I darn near spent a couple of C notes on a new LIO battery. I knew it would be best to check in here first. Next track is on the 17th @ Thunderhill. Cooter, are you a whiskey drinker?
That green wire behind the belt pulley is for the neutral light, and messing with the starter interlock. SO glad you found it! Free fixes are the best:eagerness: The little switch can get corroded too. It's just a spring loaded ball in there. If you remove it and shoot some brake cleaner in the switch while depressing the ball that normally fixes an intermittent neutral light.
I do drink whiskey! Probably too much:very_drunk: LOL, but my reward is to have ya up and running on the Buell. Thanks for the offer outthere. Maybe we can get on track? TH is only 500 miles from here:angel:
You just might like Whistle Pig. Give it a try when you have a chance & thanks for getting me going.
I DO! My whiskey game is strong:cool: Too bad my tastebuds hate my wallet so much:upset:
I went in with tuneabuell and disabled starter interlock
12 & 15yr are my favorites. Price keeps me away from the $600 stuff. Delivery should arrive today. https://whistlepigwhiskey.com/whiskeys/
Skip ahead to 11:50 for Whistle Pig infoQuote:
Originally Posted by outthere
https://youtu.be/M-rjtG_CHzU
Great info! I'm going to follow those guys on youtube:)
I know, much like wine, $$ doesn't = what tastes better to me... BUT I do have a bottle of Orphan Barrel Barterhouse that tastes like an angel caressing my tastebuds. I thank a very wealthy friend for the gift:) Its just as good to pretend you're rich, as actually BE rich, right?
thanks. effing GSO driver said wrong address so, we've exchanged many many many e-mails. The address hasn't changed in 40yrs.