What shim kit & crank/cam tools?

I've essentially "shelved" my 1125CR until I'm able to a) find someone who is trustworthy enough to do the valve adjustment or b) my garage frees up and I'm able to do it myself. I would really like to do this job myself, but there's definitely a few issues. First, I just got permits to start construction on my garage, so it might not be the best idea to start working on the bike inside it right now. The second issue is that there's a lot of chatter about where to source the shim kit and also unsure about the crank and cam locking tools. If anyone could point me in the right direction regarding the tools and shim kit, I'd appreciate it very much.

Thats a good move. Plus the job will be much easier done once the garage is built. No point of having it all torn apart with construction debris contaminating everything.

I think Dean Adams sells the crank locking tool. IIRC the shim kit is the same as the V-rod. I've dealt with aftermarket shim kits (on other bikes) and have had measurements really out of tolerance. Its not that big of a deal, just be sure to measure each one carefully and make sure they are sorted properly. I've heard stories of the aftermarket shim kits having plating/coating issues, but that is just here say.

The HD shims may be more expensive, but I'd hate to see you have a severe engine problem (or just have to go back in and do it again) because you saved a few bucks on an aftermarket shim kit. This may be the better way to go.

The shim kit for the 1125 isn't anything special, the usual 'stay away from China' applies:upset: I have a full set from EBR and the usual big Hot Cams kit everyone has. The EBR set is nice because it goes to the 0.000:up: That lets me set the valves exactly at the loose end of spec, doing that usually lets the next service adjustment, just be a 'check' and more time for beer:up:

For the last 30 years I have always checked them before installing. It's not a job you want to do twice and I mix in the unlabeled OE ones I remove. I have never found one out of spec. I'm not saying it's impossible, it's super easy to just check them. I also remember that one thread you're talking about where the guy swore he could 'sand them down easier' LOL. Uh, no. Nothing to see here, move on.:)

Would anyone be kind enough and willing to ship me a crank locking tool for the valve shimming task... to 85743? I tried to buy one, but Dean's out of stock, EBR website is shot, and St. Paul's HD wants $100 for one.

I don’t have it anymore

Make one?

Yup, could do. Got any design info I can work from?

I have two of them, one from NCCR and another from EBR.... I thought I had lost mine and bought another, be glad to sell one to you, paid $70

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Originally Posted by Cooter

The shim kit for the 1125 isn't anything special, the usual 'stay away from China' applies:upset: I have a full set from EBR and the usual big Hot Cams kit everyone has. The EBR set is nice because it goes to the 0.000:up: That lets me set the valves exactly at the loose end of spec, doing that usually lets the next service adjustment, just be a 'check' and more time for beer:up:

For the last 30 years I have always checked them before installing. It's not a job you want to do twice and I mix in the unlabeled OE ones I remove. I have never found one out of spec. I'm not saying it's impossible, it's super easy to just check them. I also remember that one thread you're talking about where the guy swore he could 'sand them down easier' LOL. Uh, no. Nothing to see here, move on.:)

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Very common practice to sand shims down if they are close to the size you need. We just used the same stone that we used to finish heads. If it is a shim under bucket, no worries at all. Shim over bucket its best to not sand the side that contacts the cam lobe.

Well, I've got the shim kit from St. Paul's HD - appears to be 40 bags of 5 shims each, all varying thicknesses. Aside from the need to organize them in bins, I still need the crank tool, I think. Reading the service manual for engine rotation and valve adjustment however, does not seem to indicate a need for a crank tool, only a ratchet to rotate the engine. Clearly, I must be missing something since I've never performed the adjustment.